high idle cam? Do you have one?

I have no high idle cam on my holly 4160. boat is 1980 with a 351 commander. I bought this carb new about three years ago. I thought it sure would be nice to have one. Any reason why not?

Mine doesn't have one either. Jim's theory seems to be correct for mine. I haven't ever really needed one. I've had another theory: If you had a high idle cam with the same set-up as a car, your throttle cable would be put in a bind when you pull your control back to idle. I'm interested to hear other input on this.

Thanks guys. That's all really good information and well said. I do have a marine carb and will not put one on. ONe other question I have though is that I allways have trouble starting the boat after trailoring. On the water it will start with the first hint of the key with no pump of the throttle. When I get it off the trailor and try to start it, it will turn over and begin to start and then die several times. after that it will crank for a long period and then slowly start sounding very fowled up. Thanks again.

Thanks for your oppinion. Since I am aware that the carb is not fully marine approved, I take extra precautions and due diligence to ensure that I and others remain safe. With that said, I never recommend non-marine approved equipment for others. Now as for who is foolish...oh never mind!

I chose to not have to fiddle with the throttle once the engine fires to keep it running. Where I load and unload on occasion, 1-2 minutes sitting on your trailer warming up an engine will get you glaring stares.

Let me get this straight? You all are warming up your boats on the launch ramp for a couple of minutes? I've never seen anyone do this before. Or are you saying to warm the boat up before putting reverse after the boat is in the water. If you are warming it up on the ramp won't the impeller be damaged? Now the question I had before the bickering started was why is the boat hard to start after trailoring? Does the bouncing up and down open and close the needle and seat allowing fuel to enter the engine? Thanks!

It's the choke unloader Jim...... The choke unloader!

You are all right guys! Too rich is the problem exactly. I'll back it off a hair and see if that improves anything. How about if I leave the key in the on position so that the choke gets power before trying to start it? Never mind I'll just fix the problem. I'm going to start a new post on jet sizes and altitude. Maybe you all can help me out a little bit more therre. Setting of for a three week vacation at the lake. 5000 ft. like is good as a fireman here in Santa Cruz, Ca.

The choke butterfly was way too tight! Thanks fellas. After it went closed at cold it was nearly 6 settings past that. My accelerator pump had no clearance also. I don't think I ever readjusted it after pulling off the meetering block. So you have to adjust the accel pump linkiage every time the idle is adjusted to get the full stroke out of the pump, right. I tightened the nut on the bolt on the accel pump 5 full turns.   This wll solve the stumble hopefully. At WOT there is still no clearance between the pump arm and base of accel pump. The meetering block is being soaked and I'll install a #25 power valve, idle needles 66 primary jets and see how it idles and accelerates.

For your Holley don't use carb cleaner, instead soak it in laquer thinner. The gaskets come off much easier. Use only a plastic scraper if you need to do any scraping. If you don't have one take a plastic knife to a grinder and shape it like a screwdriver-flat on the end, then sharpen. When going back together spray your gaskets with silicone spray. They won't stick nearly as bad as the originals.   Go with the 65 power valve.... it's much better. 6 click on the choke is a lot, mine settled in at 2. 5 turns seems to be a lot for the pump, are you sure this is correct? Do you have a digital camera to send me a pic?
Your accel pump adjustment. What you want is to make sure your pump assembly is not bottoming out at wide open. At wide open you should be able to push your accel pump arm a little further befor it stops. You need to have that little extra room in there for your diaphram otherwise it will tear. And yes idle changes the pump setting, but once your dialed in your dialed in.... If you look at the pump, the arm, your throttle, and the nut, bolt and spring adjustment,.... study this area for a minute. The spring is there for what purpose?
Say you slam your throttle wide open, the accel pump gets a full stroke immediately. All of that fuel cannot flow instantly through the passage to the squirters in the venturi, nor do you want to force it or it will blow the diaphram on the accel pump. The spring is put in there so that when a full stroke of the pump is required and resistance is met (waiting for the fuel to flow through the passages) there is a place that gives yet keeps the pressure on the pump are, making the fuel flow as fast as possible.