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Which Engine have I got

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rockingh View Drop Down
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    Posted: November-27-2010 at 2:18pm
Hi Guys
We recently bough a 1980 ski nautique but can't find any engine number/ identity.
Looking at the manuals I think its a Ford and as far as I can see the plate should be under a bolt on the inlet manifold.
We've searched but can't find it, the velvet drive 1:1 plaque is there.
Attached several pics, can you help. Also not sure which the relevant manual is in your lists???
Overal the boat and engine needs TLC but it runs well out of the water and its now freezing/snow here so its not easy to get to the boat.
Can't wait untill Spring.
Thanks for any info at all. Chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fl Inboards Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-27-2010 at 2:50pm
Looks like a pretty standard 351-W PCM, with a BorgWarner 71-C transmission. More than likely a right hand (reverse rotation)motor.
Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise.




1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fl Inboards Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-27-2010 at 2:51pm
FORD! Sorry!
Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise.




1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0
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rockingh View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rockingh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-27-2010 at 2:57pm
Thanks Mr F1
Does that mean the correct engine manual is the PCM 302 and 351
Engine Manual.
Thanks Chris
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rockingh View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rockingh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-27-2010 at 2:58pm
I meant correct manual for the age of the boat in the reference section?
Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fl Inboards Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-27-2010 at 3:33pm
Any refrence to a 351-W within that time period will work. Not a whole lot of changes to the Carb version from the late 70's thru to the early 90's when we started seeing HP motors. Just make sure you do indeed have a right hand rotation motor as that is what came in all Correct Craft's until we went over to the Power plus transmissions in 89. Also please do not substitute Atomotive parts for your replacement needs as they are not ignition protected.
Glad to help.
Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise.




1993 Shamrock "fat" 20. 2008 Nautique 196 5.0
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote horkn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-27-2010 at 4:38pm
Just to elaborate, some parts are OK to use from automotive apps, but others are not.
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boat dr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-28-2010 at 12:22am
Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:

Just to elaborate, some parts are OK to use from automotive apps, but others are not.


That is only your opinion...........Boat dr
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eric lavine View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-28-2010 at 10:22am
I would venture to say that those heads have been swapped out because i do see a bolt blocking the exhaust or I believe EGR port on the starboard back head. its a slight possibility that you may have a 302. what model boat?
but to verify rotation, either click the starter or look at the prop for the direction it spins in order for the boat to go forward
"the things you own will start to own you"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rockingh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-28-2010 at 11:15am
Thanks Guys
As you may (or may not) realise we are in the uk so part supply won't be as easy as for you. We also don't have the in depth knowledge of BIG / V8 engines you do as they are rare over here so are reading the manuals with interest. I believe the 351 means cu inches equating to our 5.7litres.
Are these engines reliable, what may go wrong and what to watch for?
Rotation, how do we tell which it is?
We are all unleaded petrol (gas) here, is this ok.
Many thanks. Chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-28-2010 at 11:28am
Chris,
The engine if original should be a reverse rotation from a aoutomotive. The prop viewed from the aft end of the boat will rotate clockwise for forward.

Unleaded is fine. Don't waste your money if someone trys to sell you a "lead substitute".

The 351 has proven itself to be a very good engine (even though it's a Ford! ) and has been used for years.

Welcome to CCfan.


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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-28-2010 at 11:33am
normally the chevrolet is a 5.7 350 cu inch and the 5.8 is a ford 351, the 5.0 is a 302.
very reliable. rotation can be determined at the front or rear of engine, looking at the front of the engine, if it turns to the right (clockwise) it is a left (normal) rotation engine. if it turns to the left, then you have a right hand rotation which is typically found in Correct Craft boats.
looking from the back of the boat, if the propeller turns clockwise to go forward you have a right hand engine and of course if it goes to the left for forward then you have a normal left hand engine
"the things you own will start to own you"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rockingh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-28-2010 at 12:19pm
Hi Eric
We arent sure which model apart from the boat serial number ends 80 but attached pictures. As to the bolt as you can see all paint looks the same, I assumed from new???
Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rockingh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-28-2010 at 12:23pm
pictures didn't work above, trying again (poor pics but all I have to hand)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote horkn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-28-2010 at 2:18pm
Originally posted by boat dr boat dr wrote:

Originally posted by horkn horkn wrote:

Just to elaborate, some parts are OK to use from automotive apps, but others are not.


That is only your opinion...........Boat dr


It's not an opinion if it is a fact.

So do you think there is any difference between an edelbrock performer intake manifold for a car and for a marine app? The GT40 heads PCM used were automotive ones with brass freeze plugs fitted. The intake manifold on GT40 EFI motors is a GT40 automotive piece, with automotive fuel injectors. Obviously there are more I could point out, but you should already know which ones to and which ones not to use.

For the original poster, you want to use a marine carburetor ( if equipped with a carb which yours should be), marine alternator, distributor, flame arrestor, starter, fuel pump.... those are the obvious ones.

The boat looks to be in great shape, although somehow it got bedazzled.
78 martinique- refloored, reinforced, stringers re glassed, re engineered interior
GT40P heads Edelbrock Performer intake acme 4 blade
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v64/horkn/fish/nautique.jpg
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-28-2010 at 2:54pm
the color of your engine should be the same color as the silver valve covers, its painted grey and at sometime was out of the boat?
"the things you own will start to own you"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fl Inboards Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-28-2010 at 3:37pm
In reality the motors of that era were considered industrial and not Automotive. The base package could have found it's way into a large generator or compressor as easy as marinized and in a boat. As Far as the marine only parts of course is fuel related and electrical, Carb,fuel pumps, Starter, Alternator, Distributor, and other small items such as brass freeze plugs and even gaskets.
Take a measurement across the top of the exhaust manifolds as the photos you supplied are for me a little off. Like some one else said you could also have a 5.0(302ci). A measurement will help as a 302 is narrower then a 351. Either way a large number of the parts needed for repair and or service are the same for either the 302 or the 351.
Hobby Boats can be expensive when the hobbyist is limited on their own skill and expertise.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rockingh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-28-2010 at 4:27pm
Thanks Guys, really interesting but I can't easily measure the manifolds for a while as its not stored near me. The carb is a holley and I'll come back with more info when I can.
Also never realised its been painted, hopefully that means someones done some careful maintenance or maybe not?
The boats certainly bedazzled and we'd like to remove the extras but are concerned whether the gel finish would have faded around leaving star marks all over. Chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2010 at 9:51am
look up rebuild......clean and paint

would that be rust on the port head cast plug? oops, sorry brass does'nt rust
"the things you own will start to own you"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tom351 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2010 at 12:23pm
Originally posted by Fl Inboards Fl Inboards wrote:

A measurement will help as a 302 is narrower then a 351. Either way a large number of the parts needed for repair and or service are the same for either the 302 or the 351.


Good idea- Or a close-up photo of the area where the cylinder head meets the block on the front of the engine will tell us 302 or 351:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?photoid=14763&.jpg
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rockingh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2010 at 2:58pm
Great, that should prove it.
I'll take pic and measure when I can as its deep snow here(well its deep for us 2 inches!!) Chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jayc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2010 at 3:39pm
Originally posted by rockingh rockingh wrote:

.
Also never realised its been painted, hopefully that means someones done some careful maintenance or maybe not?
The boats certainly bedazzled and we'd like to remove the extras but are concerned whether the gel finish would have faded around leaving star marks all over. Chris


Looks like no maintenace has been done on the exhaust manifolds. As the boat has been used in saltwater and the manifolds look original my priority would be to get them off and inspect as you're living on borrowed time.

Also replace the freeze/core plugs with brass. They are likely to fail at anytime.

As for the gel being faded under the stars, I doubt it. The boat is 30 years old and I'd bet the stars were only added in the past few years.
1982 Nautique 2001 - 351W Dual Fuel
1982 Ski Tique - 351W Dual fuel
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk1979 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-29-2010 at 4:18pm
If you need parts these guys have a small amount of marine and RH engine parts.

Real Steel
Lets have a go
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skutsch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-30-2010 at 3:36pm
Originally posted by rockingh rockingh wrote:

Great, that should prove it.
I'll take pic and measure when I can as its deep snow here(well its deep for us 2 inches!!) Chris


BoarDr might agree ("2 inches is a lot to compensate for") but up north here, we don't consider it deep until at least 12 inches...

Great looking boat the "Bedazzled" look is really, ahhh, unique... I would think if there was any fading it could be buffed out with a lot of elbow grease...

Welcome to CCF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-01-2010 at 9:02am
did you determine yet if it was a rh or lh engine yet?, i am suspecting because of the bolt on the back of the head that maybe it is a normal rotation 5.0 automotive engine
"the things you own will start to own you"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rockingh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-01-2010 at 9:28am
Sorry, not yet, maybe a week or two until I get can to it. Thanks again for all the input.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rockingh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2011 at 8:01pm
Hi Guys- sorry its been a long 2 weeks!!!!!!!!
We've now uncovered it after winter, and ran the motor up and it seems fine, soon to have it on the water for the first time.
Checked the rotation as asked above and its counter clockwise looking at the pulleys end so it seems to be an original engine?
I looked at the ford trucks diagram and wasn't exactly sure which it was tho I think its the 351W but measured between (inside to inside) the manifolds and it was 21 3\4 inch or for anyone metricated 555 mm.
So we think its a ford 351-W 5.8 litre PCM original engine, is this correct.
Well change the oil and filter, will the car filter be the same and what is the best way to remove the oil?
BTW we have also started removeing the star decals that you all so liked!!!
Thanks Chris.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-29-2011 at 8:25pm
motorcraft fl1a or equivalent is fine, just stay away from FRAMS...
as far as removing the oil...it can be done via dipstick tube using a suction pump.
Or using the drain hose that is attached to the oil pan (i see you heve it in the engine pictures). That hose has a plug in the end, you should pass that hose through the hull drain hole that should be located right below the engine and let gravity do its job...
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