Looking for a 6A6 Strut and 40" shaft

Any particular reason why you want a 6A6? That strut will fit just fine, but has a 1" longer body than your original 6A (6" vs. 5").

I assume youre looking for one that is not bent? Ive got a 6A but it needs to be straightened.

I looked high and low for a good used shaft for my sister's boat this summer but came up empty. You may find that you have to go with a new ARE for ~$300.

Ha, I guess I was looking in the wrong place Bruce!

I only found one used one listed here on the site and the seller wanted $125+shipping and couldnt promise it wasnt bent (and wasnt willing to refund me if it ended up being junk). I gave up the one to Nick's Skier for the time being, so I may be in trouble if we ever get that boat back in the water.

Actually the early (79-80) BFN's used the same 6A strut... though the later direct drives got the 6A6. If your shaft is long enough, you can run the 6A6 with the longer body- but check to see what your prop to strut clearance is now. The extra 1" of length is all on the aft end, so you'd need close to 1.5" of clearance now in order to fit it.

Im surprised that you cant find anyone to straighten yours for you... I havent had one done myself but was always told it wasnt a big deal and that prop shops could do it. Maybe its worth calling Delta, etc if your local places wont touch it?

I have a 40" long 1" dia shaft from a 77 Ski Tique. I will take $100.00 for it. for the fellow in Georgia, looking for one I will be in Gainesville GA. tommorrow nite, Cartersville GA on Wednesday night, can bring the shaft, if you are interested. I feel that the shaft is pretty true and straight. Will be leaving Birmingham around 11 in the morning your time, if interested respond to Dtaylor2954@yahoo.com with contact number and I will bring it. Will be checking email before leaving.

MAN - GA wrote: mine is slightly bent right at the flange connection to bottom of hull - it is enough that I can't get the alignment 100% under .003 - I cannot locate anyone that can straighten the strut

Mark,
You need to start with a strut alignment so the shaft runs true through the center line of the boat and the hull hole/log. Stainless flat washers under the strut flange are used to kick the strut in the direction needed. Yes, the best is to have it straightened but I've seen (from the factory) and used shims under brand new struts. Once you've got the shaft aligned to the hull, then go to the engine and align it to the shaft.

Regarding the straightening, have you called prop shops in your area? Machine shops with a arbor press? We even have members (Chris is one I remember) with access to a press do it themselves.

Pete and Jody thanks for the input - here is my dilemma as it stands right now the 6A strut is no longer available and the 6A6 is the only one available as Tim pointed out yesterday the difference is the prop log length of 5" vs. 6". My current setup has 1 1/4" from the end of the strut to the back of prop if I have to purchase a 6A6 strut that will leave only 1/4" from the end of the strut to the back of the prop. I did take advantage of the Delta Propeller promotion and order an Acme 1210 yesterday and without knowing the dimensions on the Acme I don't know if I will be able to get any more room if I have to go to the 6A6 strut, but I assume the prop shaft taper will have the Acme seating in about the same location as the current Federal prop. Here is some questions for the resident experts on the forum.

1. What is the safe (minimum) distance between strut and prop
2. I did call a local machine shop with a press yesterday and they asked what material composition the strut was? Are these solid bronze?
3. Why I am at it I want to replace the cutlass in the hull - what size/length is it and where do I purchase?

Thanks and sorry if this is too much info for the "Parts Wanted" section of the forums, but the input was already coming so I didn't want to start a new post. And as a side note I have already been printed the prop lapping post by Pete and am getting the materials together to do this procedure when I get everything with the strut and put the assembly back together

If Im not mistaken, the closer the prop is to the strut, the better- you just want to leave some room to get a puller on there. 1/4" might be pushing it, but should be enough for most pullers. Ive seen CC factory clearances run between 1/2" and 1-1/2".

I think you'll really like that Acme 1210. It should fit on the shaft in roughly the same place as the old prop.

Provided you do not want to replace your old parts you are on the right track getting it straightened and checked out.

Fl Inboards wrote: As far as "shimming" a strut, this is a process that is not generally recomended as the strut base needs to sit flush to the hull surface, gel cracking or even failure at the fastner points can occure. Yes this at one time was a accepted practice but again not recomended.

Jody,
I stated this but forgot to mention it in this thread:

8122pbrainard wrote: Stainless flat washers work great for shims but don't go past 1 washer per bolt. If two are needed then I'd start rebuilding/filling the strut base pad with filled epoxy. Plastic wrap the base, add the epoxy then start tightening the bolts. Keep checking the piece of tubing for the alignment. Pull the strut after it cures and then bed it in 5200.

A stainless flat washer is about .050". With bedding in 5200, I feel the practice is still sound.

Mark,
Report back on how close the shop is able to get the strur straightened.

I have a new 41" shaft measured end to end
Here are some pics the non tapered end does have a keyway.



http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/l608/wulf311/100_1661.jpg

http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/l608/wulf311/100_1660.jpg

http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/l608/wulf311/100_1659.jpg