Use of Rhino Liner or Line-X

Sir,
You have been spending Way too much time on one of the Wakeboarding sites and listening to their half assed, back yard, shade tree, BS quick and dirty repair ideas. If you want to do it that way, it's your boat and take their "advice" then continue on with them. If not, stick with use and do some reading/searching for the proper way.

Have you even done any core samples on your stringers?? How are you determining their condition???

Have you even taken a light hammer to tap on the glass to see if it's still bonded to the wood???

You haven't even removed the floor to expose the secondaries!!!!

I'm sorry for being very blunt here but I feel you are headed off to a direction that will get you in deep trouble down the road.

Ha! I guess I should expect the blunt response.... it is like initiation on this forum.   But, I have pretty thick skin and appreciate a good opinion couched in arrogance.

No worries.... I intend to do it right and have spent many hours reading this great forum and the many soft floor repair jobs here to know what I need to do. I intend to grind out any and all non bonded poly based glass and will epoxy it and rebond it with the appropriate glass. HOWEVER, I do want to know if anyone thinks it is a good or bad idea to put a nice 1/8" coat of aromatic polyurea (basically custom colored and more flexible rhino liner) on top of it. I have done a tiderunner floor with it (about 8 years ago) and it is bullet proof stuff. I also have used it insulating aluminum commerial fishing boats. Every aluminum commercial fishing boat in Alaska is using polyurea, rather than glass, to protect their hulls from water intrusion. Polyurea is far superior to traditional glass... mainly because it is water proof and flexible. Glass is water proof, but does not flex... it cracks, and over time water will get in. Polyurea is also used to coat Humvee's in Iraq.Afghan... to protect because it absorbs shock/explosions better than anything else out there.

So... I think there is a good argument to cover your floor after is is properly repaired.... just wondering if anyone has a good argument against it (weight addition?) Heck... on the tiderunner it gave us good traction too, but I think for a ski boat I would put in the carpet for the warm fuzzy feeling on my feet.

Thanks for the tip on the post... I will try it again tomorrow.

I've always wondered the same thing... not that it would replace the glass, but that a rubberized coating could protect and seal everything under the floor.

Last 2 posts...

Jeff has the courage to pursue an idea that's been slammed.

Jody is a diplomat.

And we have a curmudgeon among us?

Ski Nautique = Tool to take us skiing.

(its always best to use the correct tool)

(putting on my flame suit now)

:)

Thanks for the input.... it is very helpful. And, I can see am going to be on the fence for awhile whether or not I put a polyurea coat on top of a new glass floor.

Over the weekend I removed the old floor. I am pleased with the condition of the main stringers. Worst spots are under the drivers seat and spotter seat, on the secondaries, They will need some attention. Couple of pictures to show what I am seeing. Also, very pleased with the condition of the foam, it is not saturated at all. Near the hull and bottom of the stringers I could barely press any water out of it, although it was moist (mostly near the bad spots on the secondaries) ina few spots. The most water in the foam was found under the batter box and I am following it forward. (I think this boat has spent many days bow down on the trailer).

Next. I am going to keep chippin foam and will remove the airbox. I would like to remove the old brittle vent hoses and maybe in the process improve air supply to the engine. Any ideas thoughts on that? I also think I am going to plan on making a second battery box, I have seen a couple great examples on previous floor repairs.

Oh... still can't get that pylon to come loose. Seems to be corroded/welded to the bracket it bolts to on the bottom. I sprayed liquid wrench on it last night, still doesn't budge this morning. Might need to put the torch on it to heat it loose? Might have to drive the split pins out (they got sprayed last night too) take the finger and eye off, just to remove the engine bed bracket, and simply leave the pylon in place if I can't get it too loosen up.

Thanks again for all the input.

Gary is right on with the method of removal.
We utilize a over head hoist however with only enough pull to keep about 200-300 pounds of upward force while utilizing a very large pipe wrench under the motor frame to slightly turn the pylon back and forth until the pylon works its self free, also lots of WD or similar penetrating fluid . The reason under the motor frame is that the pipe wrench will leave marks but at least when the pylon is re-installed the marks will not show.Also we utilize a very short length of 3" webbing to attach to the ring and finger so as to to mar the finish.

Thanks Gary.... excellent advice.

Pylon is off.   Did exactly what was advised. Did not budge at first, but then I put some heat on it and it wiggle a bit with the pipe wrench and ease right out.

Eric, I think what was being hinted at earlier about half-assed repairs, was that you are talking about REPAIRING the problem areas on your original stringers. Although yours are in great shape for an old boat (assuming a late 80's SN?), the consensus around here is that there is no way to properly repair a damaged stringer. The only proper fix is to remove and replace with new wood, treated with penetrating epoxy (unless you use composite). You've got most of the hard part finished, so instead of repairing the old stuff, and doing it again in 5 years, do it right, and give the boat, still in good structural condition, to your kids in 30 years.