Mustang 17: Can’t get the old plugs out!!

I just got a '74 mustang that had been sitting for six years (see my Abandoned Mustang post), and I'm trying to turn the engine over. The thing is, I want to get the old plugs out so I can turn it over without risking vapor lock. But they won't come out - I haven't tried to torque it super hard, because I'm afraid of sheering the plugs. Any advice on getting these out?

Thanks!

I am surprized the plugs wont come out. Those 302 engines are a little tight in by the manifolds. Using a 6 point sparkplug socket and no extention on the ratchet if possible, hit the end of the ratchet. This will usually always break em loose. Dont be shocked if the spark plug insulator breaks. An impact gun and socket also works really well if available. Also a good shower of wd-40 or equiv. into the cylinders after the plugs are out doesnt hurt. This will help from rust scoring the cylinders. Turn it over by hand before cranking the starter.

dchris; congrats...who cares about a broke wrench or two?.....keep posting pics as you go along..please...there's alot of us who are following this story....jbear

cool,castrol super clean will romove that sludge with ease.

I'm not skiing with it yet. That was the previous boat (a 1989 Rinker 206). I sold it on eBay, and we took it out on one last run yesterday. The new owners showed up just as we got in our last turn. I wont' miss that old boat.

One man's trash is another man's treasure... But now that I think about it, I might miss that deep V when I take my kids swimming in the afternoon and the lake is full of chop from all the other boats.

It's a good think I ski early in the morning! Morser Reservoir, where I ski, is a choppy parking lot once all the tubers get out there.

I quit using sockets on the spark plugs a long time ago. If you back the plug out a little too much the socket would get wedged against the exhaust. Now I only use a boxed end wrench on my plugs and a little bit of anitseize on the threads. If your boat has been sitting for six years, check the impellor in the raw water pump and check the thermostat if the block has had water in it that long.

If you get it fired up you should consider doing an engine flush. I did it on my truck that was sitting for a couple of years and the first flush nearly plugged the oil filter with the amount of sludge that came out. If you do this follow the instuctions to the T. Only idle, and no power or movement. Pulling the valve covers and soaking down the valve stems and spring with Kroil (or a good penetrating oil that creeps) might be a good idea too. That would give you the opportunity to check for stuck valves, and see just how dirty the heads are on top. If they are sludged up on top, then you can bet the pan is sludged up as well. But chances are, if good oil was used in the past it will be fairly clean. Don't rush with the start up and you will be ok. Soak those cylinders down really good too. Often and heavy. Use lots of penetrating oil!
While your waiting, you should remove the starter, open it up and take a look at the condition. Lube up the bendix, check the brushes, and inspect the drive gear, and ring gear too. Knowing what your starting out with is half the battle when your troubleshooting an engine. Good luck!

You might not want to wait a full season before replacing the filter again. I'd change it after its first good run and see what's in there again..

dchris; Just used the link to your site for more pics. Cool. Some of you guys impress me with your computer skills. I do feel dumb on here tho sometimes.....jbear