Engine mount questions

I have my engine mounts off cleaning them up while I have the engine out painting it. I have a few questions as I am getting them ready to go back together.

1. The Eye Bolt that goes from the threaded rod into the engine blocks, is that Stainless steel, meaning does it need a coat of paint or is it OK raw? It looks like it was raw metal when I took it apart, just dirty from being 27 years old.

2. Same thing with the threaded rods, washers and nuts that go on it. Do they need any kind of coating for protection?

3. when putting the mount back together does the eye bolt rod end need any kind of anti seize or lubricant in it for corrosion protection and ease of adjustment down the road?

Yea, I like for stuff to look like new if I can get them to look that way.

I blasted the mounts down yesterday then sprayed them with primer and paint tonight. I will get them back together tomorrow and snap some pics. Thank for the info!!

BuffaloBFN wrote: Those eye pieces are aluminum. I cleaned them up with a wire brush. The trundle bolt is steel and will need a coat of oil or it will rust pretty quickly. While you have them apart(you probably had to cut out the isolaters?), skidim has new isolaters cheap. They also sourced the spring clip that goes on top of the trundles if you need one.

My isolaters were in pretty good shape, I did get one of them out on one of the rear mounts but it was a royal PAIN!!! So the rest of them I just taped up and blasted then painted around them. I did not have any rust on those parts they were just scratched up pretty good so I was fine with this.

On the eye bolts I figured it was something that did not rust because mine looked like it was just raw metal. I went ahead and threw on a coat of paint on the eye bolts and the trundle bolts anyway just for good measure.

I put this in your other thread too.   

KENO wrote: robdubbleu wrote: I just replaced my rubber isolators. How much torque do I need to use to tighten down the nut ( #9 in the diagram) to properly compress the rubber bushing and get it to the correct snug-ness? And how about the equivalent nut on the front (engine) mount? Here's a picture of a 76 PCM transmission mount and that nut on the bottom is threaded on to have about 1/16 inch of threads showing to have the proper amount of "snug-ness". No torque value needed Same open C shaped top as what you're talking about

KENO wrote: robdubbleu wrote: I just replaced my rubber isolators. How much torque do I need to use to tighten down the nut ( #9 in the diagram) to properly compress the rubber bushing and get it to the correct snug-ness? And how about the equivalent nut on the front (engine) mount? Here's a picture of a 76 PCM transmission mount and that nut on the bottom is threaded on to have about 1/16 inch of threads showing to have the proper amount of "snug-ness". No torque value needed Same open C shaped top as what you're talking about