Shift Cable Adjustment (PCM 1.23 and Morse) |
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sjpitts
Senior Member Joined: April-16-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 111 |
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Posted: June-23-2012 at 5:20pm |
As I said in my "tranny slipped" thread, I recently had a situation where my tranny slipped. This is an 89 Supra Mariah with a PCM 351 and a PCM Power Plus 1.23 engine. The control is a Morse control, MV-2.
I am checking everything out to make sure it is working correctly. I had recently changed my shift and throttle cables, and I was thinking that maybe I need to recheck the adjustment. My understanding is that for the throttle cable the key is that the lever on the trans goes into neutral when the control lever is in neutral, and that the control lever pulls the lever on the trans all the way forward when you shift into forward. So in setting up the shift cable I followed this instruction I found in another thread:
So I just did this. I will say that it is not really easy to figure exactly where the neutral position is for the lever on the trans. I can definitely hear a "click" when I move the lever into the neutral position, but it has a fair amount of play in that position. I am not sure where in that play I should try and adjust it. But my real issue is that when I do this, and try it again with the Shift controller, moving into "forward" on the control does not appear to move the lever on the trans all the way forward. So if I put the control in forward, and go back to the trans, I can pull the lever forward another 1/8 inch of so. My question-- is that an issue? I thought it was important that the lever on the trans move all the way forward. But maybe that is not right? 81Nautique did not say anything about it, so maybe that is not really an issue. Thanks Jared |
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Morfoot
Grand Poobah Joined: February-06-2004 Location: South Lanier Status: Offline Points: 5323 |
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Jared here's a post I wrote a couple of years ago on rigging the tranny.. pretty bare bones. Mind you this is if the throttle portion is propperly rigged.
Make sure that the transmission is "rigged " properly. Disconnect cable from tranny and make sure that the lever on the tranny is in the neutral position. Then make sure that the throttle cable is in neutral postion and then adjust cable end to match the transmission. Reattach cable and cycle throttle cable a few times to be sure all works properly,then disconnect cable from transmission to make sure tranny is still in neutral postion. If so then your tranny is "Rigged"! Let us know. |
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"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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Gregman380
Newbie Joined: January-03-2012 Location: St Louis Status: Offline Points: 35 |
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Morfoot,
I have a 68 Mustang with Borg Warner Velvet drive. I just purchased the boat after last Christmas. I am just in the process of getting it running. I had to replace the carburetor which may have messed up the control alignment. When I shift into FWD I seem get power before the gear engages. I feel like the throttle is around 10 O'clock when the boat lurches into gear with a clicking sound and what seems to be to many RPM's. Reverse works perfect and goes into gear around 1 O'clock and then power comes on. I noticed that it looks like the ear on the transmission where the cable attaches does not seem to flip all the way forward into gear when the throttle is in FWD. I would think that this part would be fully FWD before power is applied. Hope this made some sense to you. I am combing the threads for anything related. Best Regards, Greg |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Greg here is a how to post from Alan 81nautique,on how to adjust your cables---
There's a procedure to follow for properly adjusting your cables. Give these steps a try and you should be good to go. 1. Disconnect cables at trans and carb 2. At the morse control disconnect both cables and rotate the brass pin connector so there is approx 1/8" of thread showing at the cable end. Reconnect both cables to the morse. 3.At the transmission, place the transmission bracket(the one that the cable attached to) in neutral. You may have to move it back and forth to feel exactly where neutral is but it should detent in the center of travel. Once you find a firn neutral connect your trans cable. 4. Step 4 is the magic. Go back to the morse control and with the transmission engage button in, move the throttle lever to the forward engage detent. Just move it forward and it should lock into the forward position firmly, stop whne it does so. Now go to the carb, adjust the cable connector so the throttle cable smoothly attaches to the carb stud without moving the throttle. You are done. This sequence works for me everytime with NO tweaking if you do it right. The trick is you must have the throttle in the forward (or Reverse) detent BEFORE trying to attach the cable at the carb. |
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Gregman380
Newbie Joined: January-03-2012 Location: St Louis Status: Offline Points: 35 |
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Gary,
The procedure worked great! I was able to understand that up until the forward engage detent there should be no throttle. The problem was that I put the shift cable into the wrong eyelet on the transmission when I put things back to together! After closer inspection and moving the shift cable to the other eyelet it worked great! I was actually able to take my first spin around the lake yesterday!! Thanks to everyone on this board who have helped me along the way. I am still not there yet with the Mustang, but I have acheived what I wanted to know. It runs, it shifts, it floats and looks pretty decent! Regards, Greg |
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81nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: September-03-2005 Location: Big Rock, Il Status: Offline Points: 5796 |
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Good job, that procedure is fool proof but can be a little hard to understand the first time you do it. |
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You can’t change the wind but you can adjust your sails
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Jonny Quest
Grand Poobah Joined: August-20-2013 Location: Utah--via Texas Status: Offline Points: 2995 |
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A little help here, please:
Great advice. I just properly adjusted the cables using this method. Worked great. JQ |
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2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
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TedR
Groupie Joined: June-26-2016 Location: Clear Lake, IA Status: Offline Points: 55 |
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Gary, this is such great info! I broke our throttle cable and both the transmission and throttle cable were replaced on our 84' 2001 Nautique. After which the engine would rev right as it went into gear (forward or reverse). Step 4 above mitigated this problem, and it now works outstanding! This forum is so helpful, and it is nice that this wealth of maintenance, engineering and experience still lives here on these pages, especially when faced with trying to keep a 30-40 year old boat working. Thanks again, very respectfully, Ted |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Please don't thank me thank Alan.....
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Canuck-Surfer
Senior Member Joined: September-14-2019 Location: Ontario, Canada Status: Offline Points: 222 |
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Does this process differ for EFI GT40's? If so how? (or post link to correct thread documenting it)
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1996 Sport Nautique GT40 EFI
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Canuck-Surfer
Senior Member Joined: September-14-2019 Location: Ontario, Canada Status: Offline Points: 222 |
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Just following g up again. Does this procedure work for GT40 EFI. The instructions Alan/Gary posted reference carbs.
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1996 Sport Nautique GT40 EFI
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11155 |
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It works for Fuel Injection too.
Step 2 gets skipped sometimes due to access issues. If the cable ends at the controller are in good shape a skip is OK. If there's play though, you'll want to access the back of the controller and replace the cable ends. Step 4...........Some controllers have more pronounced detents than others. what you're doing in this step is making sure the controller shifts the transmission into gear before the throttle gets advanced at all. Then when it's in gear any further movement raises engine speed. The "magic" is built into the controller but with enough wear and tear on the barrel ends on the cables or the sliding spring loaded cam on the back of the controller, the magic can disappear. And for the question that came up in the original post way back when about the shift arm being "fully forward", it doesn't need to be. The arm needs to be shifted to the forward detent ball, not jammed forward as far as it will physically go.
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