Prop selection '82 Ski Tique

Wow thats pretty banged up!

I did a quick search and the 13x13 federal looks like the stock prop although to be honest I dont know how the hull changed on the Tique over the years (if at all) and there are some that reported clearance issues with some props, an Acme 540 or a 542 looks like a good option for a replacement.

I would keep the federal as a spare and definately go with either an ACME or OJ. Don't get one ordered until you have confirmed your Shaft is straight as that prop has has some serious abuse!
I found deepblue offered a great price when I ordered mine
http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.co.uk/propellers/acme-props-3blade/ModelNumber/ACME-540
But don't forget http://www.deltaprop.com/ I think there is a site discount with them.

Thanks Matt, I was hoping to get the standard prop repaired for the time being (if possible! and if well suited for wakeboarding), but in case not good to know of deepblueyauctsupply being a UK supplyer.

Hi Tim, its a 1982 Ski Tique - which as I understand shares the same hull as 1981 Nautique and earlier.
The engine is Ford 351W and intended for wakeboarding only, ballast (not including passengers) I guess would depend on the wake it throws out - but note this is my first boat of which I am yet to put in the water(!)

You guys in the US are just spoilt
Props are not in ample supply over here and only very occasionaly come up on ebay for sale so I would say that if you can get that prop re-worked for £50-£60 then IMO its probably worthwhile but ONLY so you have an emergency spare, but as already said they are pretty poor when compared to the newer ones and a newer prop will be worth the cash you spend on it. Dont spend anything on a re-work if you are doing it at the expense of something else though.

DeepBlue are not exactlly a UK supplier despite thier website, they still source thier parts from the US and send them directly so you still get the TAX man wanting his import duty but they do offer a good service that is pretty fast.

If you need to order other parts then its best to save on the delivery from the US as much as you possibly can and get everything from 1 place.
http://www.Skidim.com should have almost everything you might be needing and they were excellent to deal with when I got my A.R.E shaft and sundries.

Boat = Break Out Another Thousand!

You will love the Tique once ship-shape........

phatsat67 wrote: What kind of prices have you been seeing on the parts Graham worth a call to me. I know I cant compete with delta on the acme propellers but I do have a very cheap outlet for shafts and I might have an nos strut around is that a 154 DV or a 6A6? Shaft is 50" if its the same as the early hull?

Thanks, I shall have a look and get back to you..

Graham,
There are several specialty alloys out there that the shaft manufacturers use. I don't feel they are needed unless you run in salt water.

The difference between the ARE system and the manufacturer you looked at is the double taper on the ARE. I don't feel you will get the double taper with anyone else's shaft.

gR@HaM wrote: The above description is for a double taper shaft!

Then I assume it will come with the special coupling half.

Pete, the company I order shafts from machines them to order. I can pick thred style and single or double taper. Were going to build a short shaft this spring for Marks 91 Footer.

Air206 wrote: Zach: I'll bite (since I have a 91 Footer)...Why? To give more clearance for a different prop? Can one machine it to a shorter length and tap / key the end?

My guess is that the primary reason would be to address the prop/rudder clearance issue thats been discussed on that hull... which would open up prop options with aft raked blades (which perform better, IMHO). Generally speaking though, you want to minimize the strut to prop clearance as much as reasonably possible. Just enough to get a puller in between is ideal- 1/4" to 3/8" (I usually tell people to shoot for 1/2" to stay on the safe side). This will give the best performance benefit, as well as minimize shaft fatigue due to the overhung load.

When modifying shaft length on a traditional (single taper) shaft, its easiest to cut and re-key the coupler end (as opposed to the tapered side)... I think thats what you were saying? Thats exactly what we did on the BFN- took about 1.5" off, for a ~3/8" prop-strut gap.

Big cams dont do well by themselves if he has an otherwise stock engine. Its all about matching to your other components. Our "wild" cam performs worlds better out of the hole and in the midrange as compared to the stock cam (same rectangle heads). A lot of that can be attributed to the roller though. 4k RPM sounds like its either underperforming a good bit, or has too big of a prop on it. Prop it to run 4400-4600 (if stock) and it will perform much better, both down low and up top. The stock peanut port heads and low compression ratio wouldnt have it responding very well to a big stick.

We got our shaft modified for $50, but had it run much more than that, I think we would have opted for a dual taper instead.