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mystery 454? NEED HELP

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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2013 at 9:15pm
Originally posted by snowdan snowdan wrote:

so went to remove starter and opened up the battery compartment to find the neg cable melted to the post? what could cause this? the only thing i recently messed with was the wires going to the coil after i had it tested maybe hooked up wrong? it was a new battery. this has been how it has gone with this boat.

Dan,
I was replying this morning when the power went out and then I had to run to work!

As mentioned, the battery should be OK but I sure would check the cable and it's terminal. Under the electric tape (never a good sign!!) it looks like the terminal was poorly crimped and maybe not even crimped with the proper crimping tool. Take the tape off and see. Check for corrosion as well. Lot's of cranking and the poor termination sure would cause a "melt down". Besides crimping the lugs on, I always like to sweat solder. It fills in the gaps the crimping leaves behind. As a finishing touch, I will use adhesive lined heat shrink tubing over the lug barrel and several inches of cable. It forms a complete seal.

The coil wire had nothing to do with the battery terminal. They would have burnt up real quick long before the battery cable heated up.

BTW, both my 54 and 64 have wing nuts on the battery. 65 combined boating years without a single problem using them!!!!


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77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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baitkiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote baitkiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2013 at 9:28pm
I know guys running pressurized soft fuel lines. They haven't had any problems in eons either...yet....
That still doesn't make it right.
Loose the wing nuts.
Jesus was a bare-footer.............
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2013 at 9:42pm
Originally posted by baitkiller baitkiller wrote:

.
Loose the wing nuts.

John,
Please be specific. What is wrong with the wing nuts?


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oldcuda View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldcuda Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2013 at 10:41pm
I have always used wing nuts and have never had any issues.Get them tight by hand and as long as electric system is working properly good to go. I am sure everyone has had an issue where starter keeps cranking on a vehicle or there is an electrical program and you have to disconnect battery quick I don't want my boat to burn up while I am looking for a wrench.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2013 at 11:14pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

... Besides crimping the lugs on, I always like to sweat solder. It fills in the gaps the crimping leaves behind...


Pete, was is sweat solder? Is that something different from using an electric soldering iron?
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snowdan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote snowdan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2013 at 11:15pm

head off casting number 3931063 there were also GM3T and B259
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldcuda Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2013 at 12:00am
Good heads! Closed chamber large ovol port gets the compression up into good range and will flow good through rpm range.You maybe got lucky and someone knew what they were doing. If it has flat top piston should be in low to mid 9's for compression. So many cam choices for lefty motor would be nice to know approximate cam lift. Should be a runner
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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2013 at 6:30am
Originally posted by Bri892001 Bri892001 wrote:

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

... Besides crimping the lugs on, I always like to sweat solder. It fills in the gaps the crimping leaves behind...

Pete, was is sweat solder? Is that something different from using an electric soldering iron?

Brian,
"sweat" soldering is just a common term when capillary action is used to pull solder into a joint. Think about soldering copper water pipe/fittings together. A large soldering iron is ideal for lugs on cable. A torch can be used as long as you be very careful to avoid excess heat. I happen to like "Sta-brite" solder and always have a roll of it. It has silver in it that really wets out the joint plus its stronger.


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cadunkle View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cadunkle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-24-2013 at 12:40pm
Originally posted by snowdan snowdan wrote:

Originally posted by cadunkle cadunkle wrote:

Originally posted by baitkiller baitkiller wrote:

Yes you are correct.

I would wager somebody here has a carb for you. I am not a Holly guy so no help here on that. Other than being original I cannot understand the obsession with such a finicky carburetor. I threw the leaky POS in the dumpster and bolted on an AFB with a wedge and haven't looked back. I am sure there must be a benefit somewhere, I just have not discovered it personally.


I have a list 9022 Holley 800 CFM 4150 marine double pumper for sale. Rebuilt last season and ran maybe 10 hours. New billet base plate replaced the worn out original. No choke on it currently but I may have the choke parts if you want to run a choke. Got frustrated with a problem I couldn't figure out and bought a new one to replace it. Turns out I had a vacuum leak under the intake and this carb is fine. I'd like $450 for it. If interested let me know, would be a good fit for a 454... I had it on my PCM 454.


pics of carb? would this bolt right on?


You can see pics here in the for sale listing I posted (my boat is a Supra so I offered it there first): Holley 9022 800 CFM 4150 double pumper

This will bolt on right in place of what you have and you can use the fuel rail you already have to feed it as your existing carb is also a 4150.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote snowdan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2013 at 1:24am
Hey guys just recieved the wrong starter in the mail awesome! Got the right one on order hopefully. Want to get this carb ordered I just cant justify buying a used one I want new so there is no excuses. Trying to figure out what I should be looking for CFM wise and if edlebrock or quadrajet will bolt on to my set up? WOuld love some insight
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2013 at 2:58pm
Have you looked here?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote snowdan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2013 at 4:43pm
Yeah looked there saw some mixed reviews, I think I'm going to buy new just wondering about sizing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldcuda Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2013 at 10:35pm
750CFM would be my choice
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote snowdan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2013 at 6:16pm
So got the new starter and it actually sounds like she might start now. The new problem is the wire from the starter solenoid to the starter motor is getting hot and I only cranked it a little bit. I don't want to screw anything up. I think I need to go through all of the wiring. How is the starter supposed to be wired to the coil my goes through a porcelain reistor that is mounted to the intake manifold. There are 4 wires that go to the starter two go to the big post on the solenoid, and one wire to each of the little posts (r, s). From the r post on the solenoid one wire goes to porcelain resistor then to positive post on coil. The neg pist on coil has two wires one to distributor one out of a big pack of wires that run aroound engine even attsching to altetnator. The s post on solenoid is grounded to tranny. Sound right
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2013 at 6:47pm
It's funny what comes up when you do some searching!!



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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2013 at 7:00pm
Dan,
Hopefully you have not installed a deep cycle battery and all your connections are good. Yes, the cables will heat up when you do extended cranking since the factory did go to the min wire size. Again, the problem has been discussed in several threads. Deep cycles are bad for cranking. What type of battery do you have? The voltage drop is bad with the deeps on high amp loads (cranking) consequently the amps go way up (Ohms law).


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote snowdan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2013 at 4:35am
Thanks everyone for the help she fired tonight it was 11 at night and the neighbor lady gave me some grief and I had to kill it but fired right up awesome as soon as I figure out how to post a video I will.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2013 at 7:37am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Dan,
Hopefully you have not installed a deep cycle battery and all your connections are good. What type of battery do you have?


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