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Idiot questions before firing up for first time!!

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gR@HaM View Drop Down
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    Posted: June-06-2013 at 10:22am
Ok, so I want to make sure I dont do anything stupid before starting the engine up resulting in expensive boat surgery...

First question, easy - RWP
Is this the correct rotation? Just want to make sure the impellor is ‘squished’ in the right direction..


As for timing, I turned engine over on crank (clockwise) until thumb was blown from cylinder one, marked where the dizzy was pointing with tape then lined that up with the outside of the cap:



Im working on the basis that as long as I get engine started up I can then buy a light and set correct timing from the balancer.

Also, this one sounds really daft - Ive added 5L engine oil but fitted the filter dry, presumably this will soon fill up therefore is ok to start engine as is?
As for trans oil (dextron ATF) I'm looking to do the same i.e not fill the cooler and pipes, this be ok?

I'm sure I'll have more questions soon!!..
Thanks muchly
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2013 at 12:34pm
If you have a RH (reverse rotation) PCM, then no- you have the direction of rotation marked backwards on the RWP pulley. Confirm which way your engine spins and take another picture from the side and we can tell you whether the pump is installed properly or not (its common to install it upside down, which doesnt pump water into the engine very well). Do not worry about which way the impeller fins go- they'll correct themselves.

In regards to setting your timing, it sounds like you found the compression stroke properly... you dont mention turning the engine to TDC on that stroke (0-10 deg BTDC) before marking which direction the rotor faces- did you do this? You dont mention the fact that you will be installing plug wire #1 on the cap post that lines up with the mark you made, but Im sure thats your plan, and to follow the firing order around in a CCW direction as well. (Right?)

The instant you get the engine started, youre going to want to time it properly, so go ahead and get that timing light so youre ready for the initial firing.

5L is a bit overfilled (5L = 5.25 qts) but close enough, I suppose. Pre-filling the filter is preferred, but not required. No worries on the tranny fluid.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2013 at 12:49pm
If you have an old dizzy laying around you can strip the insides out and the shaft makes a nice oil pump priming tool. If you didnt rebuild or open the engine up then there should be some oil still on the parts and it's not much different than just a regular oil change.   When I primed mine it spun for about 10 sec before I felt it pic up oil and drag down my drill a little. Wasn't watching to see when the guage started to see pressure and move.

I also rigged up the suction can I use to drain the oil to fit the fuel line and pulled gas to the carb, all the lines and the filter were new. That went much quicker than I was thinking it would. You shouldn't have the issue of being far from the motor when you start it , but I use a remote starter so I can be next to the motor and adjust the dizzy as it tries to fire.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2013 at 2:33pm
Thanks for the replies.
Regarding timing, I checked the balancer after marking the dizzy (when receiving pressure on cylinder one), in order to line it up to tdc I have to continue turning another 40deg on the dizzy - does that sound right??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2013 at 2:43pm
No. Do not turn the distributor to account for crank position- that is back asswards.

How fast were you spinning the engine when finding TDC? Were you using the starter or a breaker bar? Doing it as slow as possible (with a breaker bar on the crank bolt) makes this process much easier and less error prone.

The compression from the piston traveling up towards TDC is what blows your finger off the spark plug hole. If you hadnt reached TDC yet when you blew your finger off (and stopped short), then continue moving the engine until you line up 0-10deg on the balancer to the pointer. If you overshot it a bit, rotate it backwards until it lines up. Then mark your rotor position.

Common sense tip: the engine must have been rotating forwards when finding TDC on the compression stroke... so if youre not 100% sure you werent spinning the engine backwards, do it again to be sure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2013 at 2:44pm




You'll have to bear with me using phone whilst sat on boat!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2013 at 2:52pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

No. Do not turn the distributor to account for crank position- that is back asswards.

How fast were you spinning the engine when finding TDC? Were you using the starter or a breaker bar? Doing it as slow as possible (with a breaker bar on the crank bolt) makes this process much easier and less error prone.

The compression from the piston traveling up towards TDC is what blows your finger off the spark plug hole. If you hadnt reached TDC yet when you blew your finger off (and stopped short), then continue moving the engine until you line up 0-10deg on the balancer to the pointer. If you overshot it a bit, rotate it backwards until it lines up. Then mark your rotor position.

Common sense tip: the engine must have been rotating forwards when finding TDC on the compression stroke... so if youre not 100% sure you werent spinning the engine backwards, do it again to be sure.


Sorry that's not what I meant, not easy for me to explain!
I'm rotating engine slowly using ratchet bracker on the crank.
Stopping when I feel pressure on cylinder 1 plug hole is when I marked the top of the engine with tape and then aligned the dizzy cap to the tape to ensure contact with that point.

But then looking at the balancer it is no where near any of the timing marks, rotating the engine via breaker bar on crank to get it to tdc brings the pointer on the dizzy forwards s further 40degrees as per above photo..

Hope that makes sense, any idea why the balancer is not even close to tdc when I get compression on cylinder 1??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2013 at 3:21pm
Compression starts building as soon as the piston starts moving away from bottom dead center (towards top dead center).

Either way, timing is referenced to TDC so don't worry about it. The trick is just to make sure you don't go off TDC on the exhaust stroke (180 out).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote backfoot100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2013 at 3:31pm
Are you positive you are on cyl. #1?
When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2013 at 4:08pm
Was cranking engine backwards, hence reason for putting arrow on RWP the wrong way round it's reverse rotation   
Think I have it now, well it line's up with tdc on balancer anyway.
You mentioned possibility of being 180deg out putting timing on exhaust stroke, does this mean that I can only time from every other full cycle on the dizzy, it's just I'm getting enough pressure to pop my thumb off the plug hole on every cycle as opposed to one in every 2 cycles..

Excuse the stoopid questions, I have experience with working on cars but always electronic, fuel injection none of this distributor malarky!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2013 at 4:33pm
Start again from scratch. Spin the engine over forwards. The compression stroke is the only one that will blow your finger off the hole... Exhaust stroke will vent out the exhaust valve.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TX Foilhead Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2013 at 4:37pm
Dizzy and the cam spin at half the speed of the crank. If you're 180 out then 6 would be on the top of compresion stroke instead of 1, it's 180 on the dizzy from 1. Move the wires so that 1 is where the rotor is under the cap, you can twist the cap to do that or move the individual wires.

The balancer and your mark aren't adjustable so that mark comes by 2 times to complete one trip through the firing order. If you wanted to be lazy you could try it with the mark lined up 50/50 chance it's right, if idoesn't spin the mark around 1 time and it would work the next try.

Once it runs thins is like everything else, you'll. E able to do it quick and painless next time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2013 at 6:55pm
Originally posted by TX Foilhead TX Foilhead wrote:

Dizzy and the cam spin at half the speed of the crank. If you're 180 out then 6 would be on the top of compresion stroke instead of 1, it's 180 on the dizzy from 1.


Great this is what I needed to understand, thanks.
I've been watching the cam on the dizzy whilst turning crank, so a full 360deg rotation on dizzy is also a full cycle of the engine, which explains why I was feeling compression on cylinder 1 after every one.

I think the only thing stopping me from giving it s go at firing up is lack of trans oil and sorting wiring under the dash.
Regarding the dextron, sorry I appreciate being lazy here(!) how much do I need to buy in?
I have 1L on the shelf, haven't siphoned all the old oil out but removed both hoses and cooler so guess 80% has dropped out..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-06-2013 at 9:00pm
Tranny usually takes about 2 US quarts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-07-2013 at 5:06am
Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2013 at 1:05pm
It runs!!!
Fired up on first crank, probably helped by sucking the fuel through to the lift pump by mouth like a true redneck!!
Took it up to WOT in neutral, but didn't get a chance to put the light on it or put it in gear due to the carb flooding fuel via the secondary valve. And lots of it!
When I first got the boat it was dipping fuel from the primary but I since installed a trick kit from Holley. Any ideas before I take it apart again? I recall the floats are not adjustable on this one, seem to remember its a 4160, definitely marine..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2013 at 1:08pm
Floats are adjustable, you just have to take the bowl off to bend the tab.

Be suspicious of the needle & seat, even if new.

Some have reported flawed replacement needles.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GlassSeeker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2013 at 2:44pm
congrats on getting it started.

I wouldn't run it wot in neutral, get it in the water and in gear under a load before you run wot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ST79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2013 at 3:33pm
What do you know about rednecks your from bloody England but me being from Alabama now that is different story. A 4 ft long piece of hose pipe is a Alabama credit card.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2013 at 8:13pm
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

Floats are adjustable, you just have to take the bowl off to bend the tab.

Be suspicious of the needle & seat, even if new.

Some have reported flawed replacement needles.


Looks like I need to strip it down again then
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2013 at 8:21pm
Originally posted by GlassSeeker GlassSeeker wrote:

congrats on getting it started.

I wouldn't run it wot in neutral, get it in the water and in gear under a load before you run wot.


Yep noted, I only opened it up for a couple of seconds sounded great!
Next step after carb is sorted, get a timing light on it and check compression
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gR@HaM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-09-2013 at 8:27pm
Originally posted by ST79 ST79 wrote:

What do you know about rednecks your from bloody England but me being from Alabama now that is different story. A 4 ft long piece of hose pipe is a Alabama credit card.

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