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Stripped glove box screws: 93' SN |
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jbosse1 
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Joined: April-10-2013 Location: 60174 Status: Offline Points: 56 |
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 Topic: Stripped glove box screws: 93' SNPosted: June-21-2013 at 9:29am |
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The glove box hinge screws on my 93' are completely stripped. Does anyone have a slick fix? I'd like to stay with the original, black, matching screws. Any easy way to fix this without going with larger screws or a nut & bolt setup? I want it to lok factory when after the fix.
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baitkiller
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Joined: October-11-2011 Location: SW Florida Status: Offline Points: 1693 |
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Posted: June-21-2013 at 9:48am |
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Fill the holes with epoxy or JB weld, re-drill and install. Put packing tape over the face of the hole first, then poke through the tape for the epoxy. Epoxy doesn't stick to packing tape.
Alternatively would be a threaded rivet. |
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Jesus was a bare-footer.............
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TRBenj
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Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21184 |
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Posted: June-21-2013 at 9:48am |
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Some pictures would be helpful... else, youre only going to get responses from people who know what your glove box and hinge look like by heart.
Some pictures (or at least a description) of what the screws are attempting to anchor into would be helpful as well. From memory, I think the hinge mounts directly to the fiberglass/gelcoat dash... but I'd like you to confirm that. |
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Bri892001
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Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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Posted: June-21-2013 at 11:09am |
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Stripped out on the lid side or the dash/boat side?
I believe on the boat side, it does go right into the fiberglass. They sell a replacement hardware kit if you so require: http://www.nautiqueparts.com/hardwarekitforgloveboxhinges500.aspx Actually, the hinges fail too and get super stiff. And this puts indue pressure on the screws. So, I'd think about replacing those as well: http://www.nautiqueparts.com/hingegloveboxcooler.aspx |
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jbosse1
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Joined: April-10-2013 Location: 60174 Status: Offline Points: 56 |
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Posted: June-21-2013 at 12:19pm |
Stripped out on the boat side. Unfortunately, the boat is 300 miles away right now, so I can't look at it. On the replacement kit, are the flanges used to solve the stripped fiberglass issue, or is this the identical hardware to original (which I don't need)? |
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Bri892001
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Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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Posted: June-21-2013 at 12:45pm |
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It's identical hardware to original. The flanges are threaded and work with the machine screws on the lid side.
I believe though, that the bottom of the boat-side screws are accessible from underneath with a little bit of acrobatics. I'm almost positive they were on mine anyway. You might be able to solve with the issue with a couple of right sized speedy nuts. I'd bring an assortment of sizes. |
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KRoundy
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Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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Posted: June-21-2013 at 5:35pm |
Bri892001 is correct. Lift up the observer's seat, lay down on your back and wiggle yourself up into the bow. It is easy to see the entire back side of the dash in that area. You may need to drill a little bit to poke the screws all the way through. 
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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Bri892001 wrote: