Bad day at the lake

I am just waiting for my turn. Was it the original style?

How hard a hit does it take to bend the shaft? Its pretty heavy...
I just had my prop come back from repair, but am trusting that the shaft is ok. I have not got a dial indicator to check it.
The bends on my prop were little curls and such on the outer 3/8 of and inch on all 3 blades.....that sound bad enough?

CrazyCanuck wrote: How hard a hit does it take to bend the shaft? Its pretty heavy... I just had my prop come back from repair, but am trusting that the shaft is ok. I have not got a dial indicator to check it. The bends on my prop were little curls and such on the outer 3/8 of and inch on all 3 blades.....that sound bad enough?

I don't know the answer that question, but with the old shaft out, it is amazing how bent is is. look at this post to see pictures of the prop. I had at least two hits on the shaft a couple of years apart, and who knows how many the previous owner had, but the one that bent that prop felt pretty hard, and I think that hit bent the rudder too. As has been stated before, most of the bend was aft of the strut, though there was some forward of the strut as well. Moreover, I could still turn the prop by hand though there was a point in the rotation that was more difficult. Despite feeling no vibration when running, according to Vince at FFM, the transmission showed evidence of improper alignment (wear caused by side loading). All this is just to say that your eye might not see and your hand might not feel something out of tolerance that is meaningful.

rfarkash wrote: Original style shaft? Yes - single taper. 1 YO acme prop :( Strut and rudder original. What are the chances the mounting holes on a new strut line up with the ones in the boat? Thx Ron

Ron,

Getting the coupler off a single taper shaft is a pain, though I did manage to get mine off with a C clamp type prop puller. Getting the single taper coupler back on is an even worse pain, which is why, if you are thinking about pulling the shaft, a lot of people suggest going to an ARE double taper shaft. And if you are going to do all that, replace the strut (cutlass) bearing and do a good alignment while you are at it.

I think that it is unlikely a new strut will have mounting holes that line up. You should be able to get the original strut straightened for much less than buying a new or even a used one, and straightening the strut should be at lot less complicated than having the prop reconditioned; members have even posted their attempts at strut straightening. I suspect any good machine shop could straighten the strut, which is not true of the prop, though I would definitely prefer a shop that does marine work over auto work.

Wayne

I've seen and removed railroad ties floating flush with the water surface...found while barefooting and luckily missed, lucky for footer AND boat.

Delta can definitely do the prop, and do a good job for about $100 plus shipping. They will do the strut too, not sure how much that costs. Good people...

They are parking stops at the ramp now....not easy getting waterlogged railroad ties up the ramp...but just the thought of hitting something like that makes you take action when possible.

I was most concerned with us hitting it to tell you the truth   

gun-driver wrote: [QUOTE=dwouncmd] Delta can definitely do the prop, and do a good job for about $100 plus shipping.QUOTE] Not totally true. They sent my 1442 back with a note saying "un-repairable"

Wow.