almost water ready

Thanks to this site and the quality of knowledge shared, I have only a few little issues left before my rig is water worthy....did I just jinks myself?

First off - Rig: 87 Nautique

Alignment:
During one alignment session, upon tightening the height adjustment lock nut on a front mount, the mount let out some pent up torque, knocking off the alignment. I've realigned since. -question: should I recheck alignment after running it, and/or after I put it in the water?

Actually, two questions on alignment - when aligning using the c-clamp in the front, do you guys have the issue with it wanting to walk off on the rounded outer surface of the mount?...if so, is rasping a small flat spot a valid option?

Shift cable:
Something I noticed: The shifter cable/transmission lever will still travel further into gear as you pass by the morse detent, in both directions - forward/reverse.

It also doesn't seem to be throwing quite far enough in both directions at the tranny. It's really close but the ball on the tranny doesn't fully engage in the detent. -how safe is this? I set the throttle to not budge until the shift cable is at it's maximum position. - cable adjustment or new cable?

Tranny fluid level:
Knowing that more oil will stay a little cooler, and the tranny case seems to be vented to relive any excess fluid, is keeping the tranny a little overfull a good or bad idea? - besides having to sop up any overflow from the bilge as a downside...

Thanks for anything you can offer!

-Chow

Thanks for the reply.

I'm referring to using a c-clamp on the engine mount to pull the motor into alignment....this is rather than using a prybar to move the engine. One end of the c-clamp goes behind the motor mount (on the engine side), the other end rides on the outer (away from engine) part of the mount. Tightening the clamp pulls the engine to one side to get it aligned. The clamp likes to slide off the mount as the outer mount surface is rounded.

There is only one hole on my gear selector arm on my transmission. I'm hoping my helm control has two holes in the gear selector arm as is shown in the MV2 manual...I've yet to mess with the Morse control.

Good, cuz a flat spot would sure be nice.

My shifting woes continue but, I haven't tried it in the water yet.

Moving the Morse to either shift detent, isn't quite getting the shift arm on the tranny into it's spot. Real close but, not perfect. As i move the Morse past it's detent - as if I'm now beginning to apply throttle, the shift cable will continue to push and get to where it needs to be.
I gave the throttle cable a little more slack so the carb doesn't go to work until the shift cable has gotten to where it needs to be.
I'm assuming that will be a little sloppy on the water...

Essentially, the throw of the Morse to it's forward or reverse detent isn't quite enough to get the tranny lever into it's spot.


I've tried a couple things.
-Removing the 'adapter' from the tranny shift arm and going directly to the arm (2 holes in the arm - tried 'em both) but, the cable angle was too steep going to the tranny....and otherwise wasn't any better than as far as throw.
-Added a new cable pin hole to the adapter, a little lower...still not quite there.
-Felt around behind the mounted Morse and apparently, my Morse only has one cable pin attachment hole on it's shift arm.


Maybe it's set up right..? dunno...
I'd think locking the morse into detent should = tranny shift arm locked into detent....then no further movement of the shift cable as I move past the Morse detent.

Disclaimer: I just bought this boat and have no idea what the previous owner had fiddled with.

I'm just getting done doing a tranny/damper, shaft and bushing replacement.

With one of the shift linkage combos, i was able to get detent = detent but, as i throttled forward, the sift cable would push beyond the tranny detent in both directions. Am I better off this way?

-just don't want to burn this new tranny up.

sry for being long winded....i'm usually just the opposite.



thanks!