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need advice on my 81 natique engine rebuild

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    Posted: August-25-2013 at 9:20pm
I recently purchased an 81 natique from a friends family, they basically gave it to me as it was the extra boat they had not used in two years. this is my first real boat so i am very excited and already in love with it. i knew it had some engine issues and was warned that it had overheated last time it was out. i picked the boat up and drove it home and when my dad and i pulled the engine apart we were very dissapointed to see that there had been water sitting in the cylinders for two years. needless to say the cylinders were not in good condition. all but two had spot rust on the cylinder walls.                          

my dad and i rented a cylinder hone and honed the rust out of the cylinders with the pistons at bottom dead center (not the best technique i know)

after honing all the damaged cylinders there are still small spots in each cylinder that are rough to the touch. they do not look or feel too bad but they are definitely not perfect. i am not too familiar with this kind of work and i am now wondering if i need to get a new block.   

   (after hone)

realistically i have about two months of boating season left in the sierra nevada region and i would get an engine replacement this winter. however i know the cylinders could allow extra oil to be deposited in the rough spots and then burned which may pollute quite a bit?

i am considering running it like it is, having it bored to 60 over (40 over now), or getting an engine replacement. any advice or help is much appreciated. thanks!

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Gary S View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2013 at 10:04pm
I'd just run it then this fall you could decide what to do. You could bore it 60 over or find another 351 block from a truck and use all the parts from yours. Any idea how water got in there?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACS81SN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2013 at 10:22pm
You probably should try and figure out how the water got in there before repairing it. Bad manifold, head, or whatever.

You need to do some research and find out if that block can be safely bored to .060 over. Maybe someone here knows for sure. Some manufacturers in the 70's and 80's only provided enough meat in the cylinder walls to go .030 over. I'm not sure what Ford did. My 81 is out to .040 but that was only because the machine shop was unhappy with how some of the walls looked at .030. Its been fine at .040 over.

Since your new at this, you need to know that engine is a reverse rotation. So the crank, cam, and crank seals are different and not interchangeable with a lefty which what a typical car or truck engine is. A block should be the same.

I think I would try and figure out how the water got in there. If not a cracked block or head, put it back together and run it for the rest of the season. Then figure out what you want to do. Rebuild or replace with rebuilt shorblock. Finding a reputable machine shop that knows how to properly work on marine engines especially a right had rotation can be a PITA!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alex Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2013 at 10:26pm
thanks for the reply Gary, sorry i was not clear enough. after pulling the heads off we discovered that there was a stuck valve, and a blown out head gasket.   

if i do find a replacement engine what should i look for specifically?
should any 351 windsor short block work? or do i need to find marine specific parts? are there any engine mount variations or rotation variations i need to look for?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alex Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2013 at 10:31pm
thanks mark, the heads are in good enough condition to be refurbished and put back on. ill be looking for a new engine in the mean time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2013 at 10:49pm
The 351 block is all you need,the newer the better,but don't go older,rear seals will be different. The crank is made for right hand rotation,you would be best to have yours remachined since RR cranks are hard to come by,you remachine yours you know it will be right.Reuse your flywheel,dampner,rods,timing cover etc. RR cams you can get from places like Cam Research,everything else,ie gaskets,bearings,cam chain you can use quality automotive parts. Brass core plugs are needed too. The only part I understand thats hard to get is the rear main seal.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alex Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2013 at 10:50pm
I just got my engine to turn over, on a hunch that i already have an auto replacement engine. the belts turn clockwise which to me seems to mean that this is not a marine engine? any thoughts?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2013 at 10:58pm
Not necessarily someone could have had trouble and not knowing any better replaced the starter with an automotive one.Post a picture of your prop that might be a clue or you could put the push rods back in, turn over by hand and see what the firing order is,you'll know after the first 2 or 3 cylinders
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alex Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2013 at 11:19pm
here's my prop. I'm almost positive that this boat ran with this prop, engine/starter combo right before it blew a gasket etc. should this shed some light on the issue?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2013 at 11:42pm
If your sure it ran this way then yes it has been changed to a lefty.
Here is the firing order for a lefty and a righty. Conflicting stories
about handling with different rotation but the boat was designed to turn a righty.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-26-2013 at 12:32pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

The 351 block is all you need,the newer the better,but don't go older,rear seals will be different. The crank is made for right hand rotation,you would be best to have yours remachined since RR cranks are hard to come by,you remachine yours you know it will be right.Reuse your flywheel,dampner,rods,timing cover etc. RR cams you can get from places like Cam Research,everything else,ie gaskets,bearings,cam chain you can use quality automotive parts. Brass core plugs are needed too. The only part I understand thats hard to get is the rear main seal.

Careful Gary. If he does in fact have a newer 1-piece rear main seal style block, then the crank will not be rotation specific- only the seal. I agree that he has to be careful not to try and interchange parts (cranks/blocks) between the 2 styles. Stick with the newer 1-piece stuff, especially now that we suspect that it was rebuilt incorrectly as a Lefty somewhere along the way. Rebuild it properly as a Righty, as that will make the boat perform much better.
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