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1987 SN 2001 overheating

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rapok4 View Drop Down
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    Posted: August-28-2013 at 10:10pm
Just helped Aaron (jax904) with his overheating problem. We went through his water system from the hull pickup to exhaust and checked everything. We found is pump impeller shredded. We located a couple of pieces of rubber, but not all, in the thermostat. Aaron replaced the impeller and ran the boat on the trailer at the ramp. The boat idled fine, pumped water, no visible leaks, all fittings tight. Tried to rev the motor. It would not rev, stuttered until he moved back to idle, idled fine, then the temp shot up.

Today he brought his boat over. Everything was tight and the impeller was correct. I noticed water dripping from the under-side of the heat ex-changer on the port side. It looks like it had been leaking for quite a while. Between cylinders 2 & 3 I can not even recognize the bolt heads, the two spark plugs have completely rusted. I was able to get the riser off and one of the water jackets passageways is completely rusted shut. I was able to get the four end bolts at cylinders 1 and 4 out.

1. Any suggestions how to get the manifold off? I think the grinder on the rusted bolt heads is the only way.

2. Is this the likely cause for the overheat or do we need to dig deeper? head gasket.....

Last week we found an automotive carb. Aaron ordered the Holley 4160 from the local shop. After we fix the fuel hoses and carb issue we will sort that side.







Thanks, Rex
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2013 at 11:14pm
You mention a heat exchanger... is this raw water (just cools with lake water) or fresh water (uses a heat exchanger filled with coolant that flows through the engine and the lake water cools that) cooled?
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rapok4 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rapok4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2013 at 11:21pm
I am not sure of the term? On my truck it would be an exhaust manifold. As it has water flowing through it I assume it is a heat exchanger. It is an open system. Either way the pics are of the exhaust side at the head.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2013 at 12:17am
Ahh ok. It's still called an exhaust manifold, they are water cooled on boats.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2013 at 12:21am
Plugged up exhaust manifolds are a problem for sure, whether its the whole problem is tough to say. All water entering the engine needs to exit through them, so if they were really blocked bad, that could be the whole problem.

You said it was pumping water fine on the trailer. Where you letting the motor suck up its own water with the bucket method, or where you force feeding it with the hose?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jax904 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2013 at 7:15am
I had the boat actually tied to the boat dock in the water when it was running. Like Rex said the engine started up fine and idled fine as well. I let it idle for about 15-20 minutes to see if the temp would shoot back up like before. Everything looked good so I un-tied from the dock and started to idle away from the dock, still looked good. I then gave it some gas but I could here the motor trying to go to power but it was bogging down and would not go to speed. I instantly powered it back down to idle and then my temp guage shot back to around 210-220.

Thanks Rex for posting those pics and info.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2013 at 11:03am
I would think the getting up to speed problem and the overheat problem are just a coincidence. Not related.

Unless the Manifolds were so bad that they were restricting exhaust and/or allowing a lot of exhaust gas to leak out under the engine cover and choking off the engine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rapok4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2013 at 11:22am
We think your right, two separate issues. Any thoughts on getting the manifold off? We can only see grinding the heads off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rapok4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2013 at 11:22am
We think your right, two separate issues. Any thoughts on getting the manifold off? We can only see grinding the heads of the bolts off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2013 at 11:26am
Grinding the heads off might be the only alternative.

Skidim sells complete Hardware Kits for various levels of diss-assembly. This is probably what you want http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RP173029 so the bolts can be replaced.

I'll see if I can dig up that thread on removal when things slow down at work a bit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bhectus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2013 at 11:30am
You are most likely losing power because one or more of your spark plugs is so rusted that it is no longer firing. Same problem happened to me on my '96. The GT-40 heads had a cracked water jacket and leaked. Eventually one of the plugs got so rusted that it failed and the cylinder wouldn't fire. That was when I decided it was time to replace the heads.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2013 at 11:38am
Originally posted by bhectus bhectus wrote:

You are most likely losing power because one or more of your spark plugs is so rusted that it is no longer firing. Same problem happened to me on my '96. The GT-40 heads had a cracked water jacket and leaked. Eventually one of the plugs got so rusted that it failed and the cylinder wouldn't fire. That was when I decided it was time to replace the heads.

Thats what Im thinking too. Even if thats not the case, how can you possibly expect to change those plugs out? Those heads might be saveable, but my guess is that theyre not. I'd be yanking them off the boat either way if it were mine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phatsat67 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2013 at 11:57am
Perfect time for GT-40 heads.
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rapok4 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rapok4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2013 at 1:02pm
I can get the broken plugs out and get the heads over to the machine shop and we can go from there. I was hoping someone had a trick so we did not have to grind 4 bolt heads off! I don't think Aaron wants to buy new heads unless his are not salvageable. Thanks for the help. Rex
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-29-2013 at 1:32pm
These threads cover the process. A lot of which is to try and get some Kroil in there and let it sit. Some raps with a hammer/punch also suggested.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27162

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=27162

I grabbed this quote

Originally posted by 80SN Barnfind 80SN Barnfind wrote:

Jeff,
I went through the same frustration on my 80SN this past summer. I ended up using a 2" cut off wheel on a die grinder to cut the heads off the socket head capscrews. With the manifold removed, a visegrip easily turned the remaining "studs" out. This cutoff size fit perfectly in the irregular shape of the manifold pockets.
Noel


If you wind up needing heads, and don't want to spring for GT-40s, I've seen the standard heads go very cheap on here. Every guy that's replaced his heads with GT-40s has a set of standards somewhere being used as paper weights.
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