Stumble and Backfire during accel |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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It very well could have been done at the factory maybe a special order,maybe it was all they had or PCM could supply. Things can change after the manuals have been printed too.
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TX Foilhead
Grand Poobah Joined: February-01-2009 Location: Kingsland TX Status: Offline Points: 2076 |
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Most likely the thing that hasn't changed is the engine manual, The specs for the basic Ford and Chevy motors was basically the same for a long time so they didn't update the manual for many years. The additions were usually just an added section so the 83 manual looks pretty much the same as the 93.
If you search engine rotation there is a thread that has all the PLR/PLL ect broken down. I keep a pic of my tag on my phone so I can remember what spins which direction so I don't have to guess at it when I'm not around the boat. |
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pcrowley203
Newbie Joined: June-18-2014 Location: Connecticut Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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I found this forum entry: http://www.boote-forum.de/showthread.php?t=171927&page=15. It's in German, but if you're using Google Chrome for your browser, the browser will translate the text to English at the push of a button.
According to the writer, the encoding goes like this. My engine is a PLP-PR-R12PT. P -- PCM L -- left-rotating engine P -- indicates the horsepower (although exactly what horsepower P indicates, I don't know) P -- PCM "gear" (whatever that means. I'm assuming it means the peripheral equipment attached to the block, such as the ignition system.) R -- reverse or reduction gear (whatever that means. Do any of these boats NOT have a reverse gear?) 12 -- the gear ratio (I thought these boats were always 1:1, no?) PT -- not mentioned in the German forum, but I'm guessing it indicates a Pro-Tec ignition. |
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gun-driver
Grand Poobah Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4127 |
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Go to the reference section , click on manuals, page down to the bottom, find PCM service manual page 4 has the code break down.
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Keep in mind Paul PCM supplies engines for more boats than just correct craft and for boats other than ski boats! PCM gear means its a PCM trans, gear ratio can be different for different types of boats. |
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pcrowley203
Newbie Joined: June-18-2014 Location: Connecticut Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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Ah HA! Beautiful! Thanks very much. Page 4 of the service manual does indeed have the model number decoded.
I had written down "PLP", but that page does not indicate that "P" is one of the options for that third space. Maybe I misread my engine badge, and the character is really a "D". I'll check the next time up at the boat. Meanwhile, however, my gear ratio code is definitely a 12, which is, strangely, not one of the options listed in the service manual. So I wonder what my gear ratio really is (not that I need to know). The missing gear ratio code makes me wonder whether my "PLP" really is a "PLP" after all, and the "P" horsepower code exists, but is also missing from the manual. Again, I'll double check the model number next time I'm at the boat. |
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pcrowley203
Newbie Joined: June-18-2014 Location: Connecticut Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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I was at the boat yesterday, and I learned the following:
1. My engine model does in fact start with "PLP", a model number that does not appear in the service manual to which gun-driver directed me. Maybe my 1994 engine is newer than that manual. 2. I went over my electrical connections, both on the engine and behind the dash. None of them seemed obviously loose or so dirty as to block current. 3. I had no incidences of outright dying, so I couldn't check to see which instruments, if any, failed during such events. 4. The coil never became so hot that I couldn't touch it. It definitely got warm, but I could put my finger on it for a good ten seconds without getting burned. 5. It definitely seems that something is getting too warm. Last night, whenever it began to act up, I'd opened the engine cover for a few minutes, then everything was fine. 6. The distributor is electronic. Any thoughts? I continue to suspect the coil, and will likely replace it, since doing so is pretty cheap. Thanks for all your help. |
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pcrowley203
Newbie Joined: June-18-2014 Location: Connecticut Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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I can't find a date on that service manual.
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Spray some brake cleaner on the coil or dizzy when it acts up. That should cool it down. Then you will know which to replace.
An ice bag may work too! |
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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pcrowley203
Newbie Joined: June-18-2014 Location: Connecticut Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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Thanks. I'll try that. I thought about trickling a bit of water onto it, but was afraid the temperature differential might cause it to crack.
Why brake cleaner? |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Brake cleaner came to mind because it is not flammable, at least the can I have says that.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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gun-driver
Grand Poobah Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4127 |
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When I was having troubles with my '85s coil I used a wet rag with ice wrapped in it.
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pcrowley203
Newbie Joined: June-18-2014 Location: Connecticut Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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Thanks.
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pcrowley203
Newbie Joined: June-18-2014 Location: Connecticut Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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It's been a few weeks since I last made an entry here. Since then, I have NOT, in fact, replaced the coil. Rightly or wrongly, my mechanic talked me out of it, saying that the coil isn't getting hot enough to be the problem. Meanwhile, the severity of the problem has diminished substantially. There is still some occasional hesitation, but that's all.
What's changed? When I put the boat away, I now prop the engine cover open a bit to let the engine have a bit more ventilation. I also leave a bucket of moisture absorbent on the cockpit sole next to the engine. I also find that, when the engine acts up, I open the engine cover for a minute or two, to let it either cool down or dry out (or something, I'm not sure what), and then it runs fine for a while until I have to do this again. I've also noticed that, when the engine is hesitating, the tachometer bounces around quite a bit. All this suggests to me that moisture is causing a problem somewhere in the portion of the electrical system that's under the engine cover. But where exactly? I find it hard to believe that the problem is with a connection. I've checked the connections under the engine cover, and they all seem fine. Any more ideas? |
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JasonS
Groupie Joined: July-24-2012 Location: Batesville, AR Status: Offline Points: 55 |
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Sounds like something (maybe the coil) is getting too hot, since it gets better when you lift the engine cover and let the heat out.
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pcrowley203
Newbie Joined: June-18-2014 Location: Connecticut Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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When I experience the hesitation, I stop the boat, open the engine cover, and put my finger on the coil. It's hot to the touch, but not so much that I can't keep my finger on it for five seconds or so. This, according to my local mechanic, strongly indicates that the coil is fine.
You disagree? |
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Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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The coil is still suspect if you ask me, but heat increase the resistance of all electrical connections.
Since the tach jumps around when it's acting up, it sounds possible that the (-) connection on coil is dirty/loose. Check that too. |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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When a coil fails, usually the insulation on the windings starts to break down, which is accelerated by heat (expansion). So it would make sense thst the tach would be affected since the coil resistance would change as it starts to short out.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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pcrowley203
Newbie Joined: June-18-2014 Location: Connecticut Status: Offline Points: 23 |
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It's been two months since I last posted here, and I thought I should provide an update.
Rightly or wrongly, I never did replace the coil. My mechanic swore up and down that it wasn't the problem. At his recommendation, I began using a foot-long piece of 2x4 to prop open the engine cover when the boat is not in use. I've also been leaving a bucket of moisture absorber on the boat when it's not in use. I haven't had a problem since I started doing these two things. It seems that the problem is moisture. I can't recall if I mentioned in earlier posts, but the boat stays in the water all season, and wears a mooring cover. Apparently the above steps suffice to drive the moisture levels down to a point where they don't interfere with the operation of the engine. Interestingly, I still notice the tachometer twitching from time to time, which suggests to me that there's still an electrical problem. But it no longer seems to rise to a level that stops the engine from running. Thanks for everyone's input on this. |
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