1970 correct craft Newport help

8122pbrainard wrote: stroker221 wrote: Ok that looks like a good site with everything I'll need. Thanks.. Since these boats are somewhat rare, I can't find anything on which mercruiser it has.. If they only put one type of upper&lower on for that year which one would it be? Mc1&R, MR & ALPHA 1, ALPHA 1 GEN II, or BRAVO 1 & II? So, The LU is black? CC would have install any I/O on it. It was anything they get at the time considering their financial situation. Where are the pictures??

Heck idk I didn't get a very good look. It was in a barn and dark. I'm getting it off a guy I work with for doing some labor work for him. Someone is going to have to walk me through posting pictures with out using photo bucket or youtube. I've been trying to copy and paste and that's not working.

You need to be in the "Full Reply Editor" to post. Click on the "Post Reply" button at the bottom left of this post (directly below my name" and there will be a picture icon that allows you to upload pics.

Bri892001 wrote: One more tip on pictures. If you're taking them on a mobile phone, you basically have to email them to yourself, and then download them to your desktop on a regular computer, then you can upload them.

ok found it. Now I gotta wait til tomorrow to upload it at home.

To reiterate what was said earlier - before you even back it off the trailer, check for water leaks (I think the exhaust hose is a concern).

Also make sure it is pumping water - the raw water pump can deteriorate just like on our inboards.

It's been a long time since I had an I/O but I think there may be some grease zerks on the ujoints you can lube.

Last thought - get some of the 'ear muffs' that allow you to run off the hose so you can debug it at home & not tie up the ramp.

Good luck on your adventure.

Yes, pumping water is the 1st thing to look for after you get it started.   Without cooling water, you will toast the motor after a few minutes.

[/QUOTE]
so will I need the hose hooked up to make sure it pumping like it should?[/QUOTE]

Keep in mind with the earmuffs it's still hard to gauge that it's "sucking water like it should". If there's no water coming out the exhaust in... 20 seconds??... Abort and check impeller.[/QUOTE]

alright good info thanks!

Any where to order a gas tank for this Freeport? Or an alternative to factory tank but close to same size?..

ny_nautique wrote: Send me an email jtfila at gmail and I will post your pics.

pics sent..
thanks!!

Tried starting it. But starter made a really loud noise and wouldn't turn over. I put pb in all cylinders and gonna take starter off and turn the flywheel to see if engine is froze up from sitting. If its free then I'll get a new starter..

Tried turning flywheel with flat head but wouldn't budge and the cover was kinda weak so didn't wanna pry too hard? Anyone know if there's any other location to access the flywheel?

Bri892001 wrote: Your best bet is to try and get something on the crank pulley nut. You want to take the plugs out to make it easier... even better, I've seen stuff about getting a little mystery oil etc down the plug holes to help free up the pistons.

ya I took plugs out and put kerosene and pb in cylinders. Crank bullet nut is blocked by front mount and may even be bolted to mount. I may take the belt off to free up some tension

You could try something like this to turn the engine:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w84003

If you have access to compressed air. If a piston is stopped in the right spot on the compression or power strokes, the air will act to push it down.

If you already have a compression tester, sometimes the above is already part of the kit.

TRBenj wrote: Using the crank bolt to turn the engine is great (and convenient, at least on a direct drive) but it is NOT the way to break an engine free if it's stuck. Break that bolt and you've got another big problem on your hands. Pull the starter and get a big bar on the flywheel- much safer and more effective. Let the kerosene, ATF or ATF+acetone soak in the cylinders for a while if at all possible. Overnight at a minimum, but a week or more sure wouldn't hurt.

I took the starter off and tried that but the cover is really thin so there's not too good of a spot to pry. I'll try the atf