exhaust hoses around rudder repair |
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Posted: December-13-2014 at 5:00pm |
Im doing a repair on my rudder port, the fiberglass was soaked and damaged inside around rudder. My question is if the area that is cleaned off (removed bad glass and paint around the area which is shown in the picture) around the port, large enough to properly do the repair job? Or should I remove the exhaust hoses and glass over the entire area?
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Brian,
If you can get the hoses off, it sure would make it easier but, they always don't come off real easy. Give it a try since getting a grinder in there is tight. I'd size the wood at least twice the size of the base of the port. BTW, it never hurts to reseal hoses with good clamps - "T" type. |
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Hi Pete,
I'm a little confused on how to proceed. I just tried to get the hoses off but could not. I don't think I can get them off without having to replace the hoses. Probably will have to cut them out. Which might not be a bad thing because they look a little worn. A lot worn. If you notice in the pic there was not any wood, it is a composite piece and it is about the same size as the brass top plate. Both pieces are zip tied in the picture. So I'm wondering if with the little area I have if I can just re-fiberglass the composite piece and then glass everything over within the hoses. SO the total glass area would be maybe 16" or so...Or if I decided to replace the hoses, grind it all down, and re-fiberglass the entire area, so the over all span port to starboard would be wider. Either way not including any wood. My other issue is I couldn't get the tiller arm off the rudder, that's why it is still in the photo. I suppose at this point if I re-bolt the rudder and remove the gas tank I maybe able to carefully hit it out with a hammer with the help of some grease. In the end if I can do this with out removing the hoses and gas tank that would be ideal as long as it is done properly. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Brian,
Ok, you have the American Skier! Do you know what the composite material was? I ask since I'm wondering how rigid it was. What have you done to try to get the tiller arm off? Will the arm spread when the clamp bolt is removed? |
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Im not sure what the material is. Yes I tired to gently pry it but was afraid of breaking it because its brass. I did remove the bolt.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Brian,
Your not going to break it. Brass is pretty tough. Remove the bolt and see if you can open up the bore by prying the slot. A couple big screw drivers or even a pry bay might work. What's the port look like on the hull bottom? |
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Good to know, if I can pry it I wont have to re-bolt anything. I don't have a pic right now but there are a few spider cracks and was leaking out of one of the bolts and left a brown stain.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Can you rephrase? I'm confused. |
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sorry. If I can pry the tiller and remove it, the port housing and rudder will drop through the hull. If I wasn't able to pry it, then I would have to re-bolt the port housing to the hull and tap the rudder off the tiller.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Brian,
The prying I suggested is at the slot in the tiller arm where the pinch bolt is. This will open up the bore of the tiller arm slightly allowing it to slide off the rudder shaft. |
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ill give it a shot tomorrow, hopefully I can get it off. After that any thoughts on how to proceed with the repair?
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Brian - I would cut the hoses off & do what ever it takes to get the tiller arm off. Then overkill your patch by a factor of 3. This repair steers the boat! Make sure & taper the hole edges in the hull with an 8:1 angle. Also, square corners are very bad stress risers - rounded corners are much better for fatigue life.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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Alright ill rip everything out, grind my square corners down to round edges and then over kill the re-fiberglass patch. thanks
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Ok, it took about an hour but I got the tiller off! What a B****! Started to clean the area up but realized the entire surrounding area was soaked. so I cut it out. Its currently drying, and slightly cleaner then it shows in this pic.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Brian,
You mentioned the fiberglass was soaked in your first post and then again above. Fiberglass typically does not get wet unless it's delaminated. Were the layers of glass separated or was ther more of the composite you mentioned? EDIT: Is there old gas and oil in the wet too? |
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There was more composite, which I removed, and that was soaked but also sandwiched between the fiberglass. In the pic you can see it, small grid squares. Have you seen that before?
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Brian,
Composites are used to reinforce stress areas just like wood and evidently that was the method American Skier used. I would suggest putting CPES'd plywood back in BUT you MUST get the area completely clean and ground down to good glass. We can go on from there. |
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Im going to let it sit for a week or so and then proceed. Thanks
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