Surge Brakes .....no back up

Still fighting the ability to back up any slight grade-
The trailer coupler slides and locks the brakes up. I have checked the oil in the resivior and the level is fine.
This is really starting to Irritate the pi$$ out of me.

Thoughts?

No where to put a pin in to block the coupler from sliding? Mine doesn't have one either it uses the backup light circut to trigger a solenoid to allow it to back up which is troublesome when you try to move the trailer with a tractor. I assume you have disc brakes?

Is this helpful?

Found it on Titan web site.

http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=81103&eq=&Tp=

NCH20SKIER wrote: So the Coupler is a Titan Model 60 - no way to lock out. Ground looks good although have not removed and cleaned as all lights are working. Could the cylinder that compresses when backing have given up the fight? No visible signs of oil / seal leakage.

The master cylinder is good. If bad, it would be leaking and you wouldn't have very much braking. The coupler moves with forward momentum of the trailer moving the master cylinder compressing the brake fluid activating the in your case the calipers,

Greg,
Get the VOM out and check to make sure the solenoid is getting power when the back up lights are on. Is the vehicle even wired for the lock out solenoid? Don't go changing the "pricey" solenoid before you do some testing. You don't want me calling you a "parts changer"!!

Greg,
Did a wiring diagram come with the factory tow package? My Suburban did but all the available connections were not wired. Things like auxiliary power say to a horse trailer for lighting or battery charging on a trailer. Back up lights weren't wired ether since trailers typically don't have them. Is it a 7 way round on the truck?

Gary S wrote: The newer Chevy's Pete, you know the ones with the cooled seats, are wired for the brakes but you need the round adapter to the flat 5 pin plug. I wish they would just have a lockout pin or something, would be easier.

Gary S wrote: is troublesome when you try to move the trailer with a tractor.

How about a cooled seat on the tractor too?

I ran into issues with my factory plug and the 7 Round to 5 way adapter.. There are RV 7-way plugs and there are utility/cargo 7-way plugs which are the same plug wired differently....CRAZY, I know! I ran into issues running 7-way power to the RV Truck camper and at the same time running power to the 5-way boat trailer..... it was a wiring diagram fiasco!

The GMC 7-way Round is wired for utility/cargo and the adapter that I had was wired for RV style...... so put a Meter on the output plug(s) and if all correct, put power to the solenoid. Mine clicks with power...... If the wiring was wrong, you would have more noticeable lighting issues..... I bet your solenoid is toast!

My boat trailer actually has little white LED telltale lights that illuminate to show when it's getting current from the reverse light circuit.

Also, you may have to give it a good jerk In forward first to make sure the mechanism is unloaded for the solenoid to work.

The Volt meter will tell you...... I was twisted 6 ways from Sunday trying to tap a marine 5-way plug into the Canadian RV 7-way plug plugged into the new GMC utility/cargo factory plug. I stopped looking at wrong googled diagrams and just slowly traced every wire with the meter........ I also used an old PWC battery for 12V to check the solenoid.

I can't tell you what colors to use.... but I can tell you crazy colors are soldered to one another in my spliced adapter.... but it works slick and a plactic wire bridle covers the crazy wire colors that made me nuts!

MartyMabe wrote:    Kinda seems like that solenoid is bad..

We won't know until the VOM comes out and he Ohm's the coil. Could also be a bad ground?? We all know it's an issue with start relays since they are grounded via the base. Trailers are nothing but a ground problem!!