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Trying to reinstall points |
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Spievy79 
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Joined: March-24-2014 Location: Fort Wayne, IN Status: Offline Points: 46 |
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 Topic: Trying to reinstall pointsPosted: July-09-2015 at 6:59pm |
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I am attempting to go back to points and my distributor has a pinwheel cam assembly from the older style prestolite electronic ignition on it. The points plate I bought came with the correct cam that is shaped like an octagon as it should. Can someone direct me on how to swap these out? Sorry for the possible incorrect names for items
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Spievy79
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Joined: March-24-2014 Location: Fort Wayne, IN Status: Offline Points: 46 |
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Posted: July-09-2015 at 7:24pm |
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Here is a picture of what I need to swap
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: July-09-2015 at 9:59pm |
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Joel,
Try pulling the old off. There isn't a direct connection to the distributor shaft since it must move independant of the shaft when the advance works. The new should then just push on. |
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gun-driver
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Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4117 |
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Posted: July-09-2015 at 10:31pm |
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x - 2
should just pull off may have to use a little prying leverage if it's been on there awhile Use even pressure from both sides if needed. |
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10745 |
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Posted: July-09-2015 at 11:38pm |
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Hi Spievy
I seem to think you'll find a small internal spring type clip right in the center of the advance mechanism piece (the part you called the pinwheel). You might have a piece of felt like material in the center hole, pick that out and you'll see the little wire clip. It isn't the easiest thing to remove without messing the clip up some but, once that clip is out of there then you can pull it off and you won't break anything.. KenO |
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Gary S
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Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Posted: July-10-2015 at 12:51am |
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Many of the distributors I have messed with have a screw under that felt in the center of the shaft. Take a pin, remove the felt and see what's under it.
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Spievy79
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Joined: March-24-2014 Location: Fort Wayne, IN Status: Offline Points: 46 |
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Posted: July-10-2015 at 1:26am |
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Thank you as always for all the info. With any luck I'll have her ready to go for tomorrow
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Spievy79
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Joined: March-24-2014 Location: Fort Wayne, IN Status: Offline Points: 46 |
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Posted: July-10-2015 at 7:38pm |
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I am pleased to announce that my boat finally runs like it should! Points are in, gapped at .018, dwell set at 31 (I believe that's what it called for) and timing dead on @10 btdc, and she's a beast on the water again! Getting ready to go do some slaloming on the glass out there. Thanks again for all the advice and help. At least in the process of elimination I replaced a bunch of items that I now know to be good, so it wasn't all in vain at least. Cheers 🍺
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: July-10-2015 at 7:57pm |
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Joel,
  Another EI conversion bites the dust! Go ski and enjoy!
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Spievy79
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Joined: March-24-2014 Location: Fort Wayne, IN Status: Offline Points: 46 |
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Posted: July-10-2015 at 11:22pm |
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One last quick question...does this look correct? It's been a long time since it wasn't bypassed, I just want to make sure these wires are not supposed to be swapped? TIA!
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_images/post_button_image_upload.gif |
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Spievy79
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Joined: March-24-2014 Location: Fort Wayne, IN Status: Offline Points: 46 |
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Posted: July-10-2015 at 11:24pm |
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Sorry, having an issue if you look back a few posts ago the picture I'm speaking of is there. My question is regarding the ballast resistor wiring so that I do not cook the points
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1980nautique
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Joined: December-25-2012 Location: W.Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 146 |
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Posted: July-10-2015 at 11:45pm |
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From the picture It looks like you are missing the bypass wire for Starting Hot!!!
Look to see if the Ignition terminal on your starter solenoid, (the brown round part in the picture) the one with no nut on it, has an I next to it in the plastic!!! The other side small terminal has an S for Start. The I terminal connects to the Purple wire terminal on the Ballast Resistor. ( Since this Ignition has been previously altered check to see if the purple wire still runs to the coil + terminal) Reason for this is when the engine is hot the Ballast Resistor is too!! The starter solenoid will send full battery voltage to the positive side of the coil, bypassing the Ballast Resistor, while cranking. Full Voltage = Good Spark while cranking. This will allow a quick crank and start instead of a good crank and maybe a start!!! Remember before connecting a wire on the starter solenoid to the purple terminal on the Ballast resistor, make sure it has an I for Ignition. Just because the solenoid is on there doesn't mean it is the correct one |
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1980nautique
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Joined: December-25-2012 Location: W.Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 146 |
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Posted: July-10-2015 at 11:56pm |
Also in the picture looks like the purple wire is loose. |
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Spievy79
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Joined: March-24-2014 Location: Fort Wayne, IN Status: Offline Points: 46 |
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Posted: July-11-2015 at 12:00am |
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Ok, I was looking at it and something just didn't seem right...I will be back down tomorrow to look at the solenoid. I do recall the I and S terminals being marked like that. Can you verify though that I at least have the red and purple on the correct sides. I don't know which is input and output??
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Spievy79
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Posted: July-11-2015 at 12:04am |
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Yea, it is tight I had to use a larger nut cause I dropped the one on it in the dang bilge. I was going to get another tomorrow. That was just for testing it after installing the points
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1980nautique
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Posted: July-11-2015 at 12:09am |
Good Job Yes the wiring orientation looks good just missing resistor bypass wire!!!! |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41040 |
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Posted: July-11-2015 at 12:10am |
A resistor doesn't care which way the current flows so, you can swap the wires. |
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Spievy79
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Posted: July-11-2015 at 1:56am |
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Good deal, that's certainly good then. I will get the other line on tomorrow and I should be pretty well set 😎
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KENO
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Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 10745 |
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Posted: July-11-2015 at 9:57am |
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Hi Spievy
You won't find that bypass wire that 80 Nautique has mentioned a couple of times now on a Pleasurecraft 351 wiring diagram. Some other marinizers used that bypass but not PCM.. It isn't needed, they built them without this, some people think you need it, some would call it a band aid, some would call it an improvement but regardless the boat will start hot or cold just fine without it assuming it's tuned decently.. KenO |
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: July-11-2015 at 10:46am |
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I agree with Ken and didn't mention that yes, PCM did not use the full voltage by pass when cranking. Joel, you must be working on other engines or listening to someone who does!
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Spievy79
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Posted: July-11-2015 at 11:16am |
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Pete, in the last several and painful months I wish I could say that I had been working on some different engines 😁
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Spievy79
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Posted: July-11-2015 at 11:19am |
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Come to think of it I am now thinking that I did see those terminals.....on my parts motor ( the indmar ).
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Spievy79 wrote: