Rebuilt carb still drips |
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cboland
Senior Member Joined: July-15-2004 Location: Atlanta, GA Status: Offline Points: 185 |
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Posted: August-15-2015 at 11:06pm |
I recently noticed a good drip in the port side primary barrel of my '88 351 when I would shut it off, so I rebuilt the carb this week. I put it back on today and I've still got a drip for several minutes after I shut the engine off. What's more, now I have a pretty substantial drip while the boat is running at idle which I didn't have before the rebuild.
Can anyone point me in the right direction. Feels like I took a step backwards now. |
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Bud
1999 Sport Nautique |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21171 |
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Did you check the float level while you had it apart? If you did and it was ok, I'd bet money on a bad needle/seat. Not uncommon these days, unfortunately- right out of the package.
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cboland
Senior Member Joined: July-15-2004 Location: Atlanta, GA Status: Offline Points: 185 |
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I did check float level - when inverted they are level, both primary and secondary. I believe they should both be set that way.
I did notice one of the new seat assemblies looked kinda pitted on the exterior which seemed strange for a new piece, so I put that one on the secondary which is obviously not the problem. I guess I'll swap in another needle and seat assembly and see what happens. Thanks. |
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Bud
1999 Sport Nautique |
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desertskier
Platinum Member Joined: December-19-2006 Location: Az Status: Offline Points: 1115 |
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Mine had a cracked float once that caused similar symptoms. It was pretty obvious though. It was about half full of fuel.
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cboland
Senior Member Joined: July-15-2004 Location: Atlanta, GA Status: Offline Points: 185 |
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Well I spent 8 hours working on this thing today to no avail. Still dripping from the port side booster. Tried 3 different needle/seat sets and every conceivable float level. Anything outside of the typical "upside down level" setting result in dripping from both boosters and gushing from the J tube.
Can anybody think of anything else that keeps gas dripping from the booster? Incorrect gasket used (the kit comes with several similar), incorrect metering block baffle orientation, etc..? One other note - the instructions in rebuild kit show a check ball, check ball weight, and needle underneath the squirter nozzle. However I only had a needle when I disassembled. Would this affect anything? Thanks for any help. I'm at a loss on this. |
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Bud
1999 Sport Nautique |
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cboland
Senior Member Joined: July-15-2004 Location: Atlanta, GA Status: Offline Points: 185 |
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Spoke to Holley tech support this morning. He suggested liberally spraying carb cleaner with a straw into the air bleeds next to the booster as anything hung up in there would cause it to draw gas from the booster. Upon reflection, I realized I did not spray anything into those bleeds during rebuild. We shall see...
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Bud
1999 Sport Nautique |
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cboland
Senior Member Joined: July-15-2004 Location: Atlanta, GA Status: Offline Points: 185 |
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Posting this for the record in case somebody else has this problem. The Holley rep was correct - blowing out the air bleed next to the booster fixed the drip. Must have a little speck of dirt in there.
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Bud
1999 Sport Nautique |
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SNobsessed
Grand Poobah Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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Were you able to do this without disassembling the carb? If so, you have found a great solution to a common problem!
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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cboland
Senior Member Joined: July-15-2004 Location: Atlanta, GA Status: Offline Points: 185 |
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Yes, no disassembly required. Simply open the choke plate and spray carb cleaner/air down the little air bleed.
After searching enough threads, it looks like the culprit for a lot of folks is incorrectly set floats, but this is another easy thing to try that I found nothing about in other threads. Sure wish I would've known to try this before I pulled the fuel bowl off about 30 times to try different float settings and needle and seats. |
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Bud
1999 Sport Nautique |
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TRBenj
Grand Poobah Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21171 |
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I think most people offering advice would assume that a rebuild included the soaking/spraying/clearing (carb cleaner and compressed air) of all the internal passages. If all you did was swap parts and gaskets, that's not a rebuild!
Glad you got it sorted. |
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cboland
Senior Member Joined: July-15-2004 Location: Atlanta, GA Status: Offline Points: 185 |
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I agree Tim. I'm embarrassed that somehow I overlooked those air bleeds. Go figure the ones I overlooked would be the culprits.
By the way, I used this opportunity to install a 'Tim T' hookup to run it on the trailer. Came in very handy and worked flawlessly. Wish I had done it sooner. |
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Bud
1999 Sport Nautique |
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GottaSki
Grand Poobah Joined: April-21-2005 Location: NE CT Status: Online Points: 3359 |
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I suspect the air bleeds are likely not clogged per sey, but still could have been, Most probable you unclogged an idle fuel orifice in the metering block with the backpressure from the spray, Having been clogged prior neccessatated opening the idle stop until the transition slots were exposed, that are fed by the mains, thus perculating some fuel up to the booster causing a drip.
Unfortunately, it knocked it back into the bowl. But with luck, it will all exit via a main jet If an idle stop adjustment was required afterward, then this likely was the scenario, since the mains should be not active at idle. |
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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
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