transmission refesh questions (Eric?)

I pulled my engine for rebuild. I assume this is a good time to refresh the transmission.

There were no apparent issues with the transmission, but it is at 1400 hrs.   
Velvet drive 10-17-206, 1.52:1

I'd like to have parts in hand before assembly. I'm looking for some input on the shopping list.

Here are my assumptions and a few questions.
i) Gasket and seal kit

ii) input shaft snap ring

iii) At 1400 hrs, do I assume I need new clutch plates, or wait until I can inspect?

iiia) Eric has posted about using fiber coated steel clutch plates for reverse. Does anyone have a P/N and source for these.

iv) Eric has posted that return springs wear out.   Does this apply to both reverse and forward?

v) For the reduction unit, I'm assuming I start with just seals and a coupling nut. Unless I find trouble on inspection.

vi) 106A damper plate

vii) Is Ebasic power the best source?

Pete your search function must be malfunctioning today .

He's got a 92 Mastercraft ProStar with a normal rotation 351 and the powerslot transmission hence......the reduction gear.

Kinda agree with Pete, if it doesn't have any problems, why take it apart but if you take it apart then it seems you might as well replace the clutch plates while its apart

Ebasic has good prices, get one of their rebuild kits and you'll have the parts you need

If you take it apart, get yourself a pair of lock ring pliers too, in addition to snap ring pliers. They'll be handy for reassembly too.
   

Right, the boat is a mastercraft, 351w with powerslot.
I think I've read on this site that these transmissions last 2000 hrs or so.
The only reason to take it apart now is that it out, staring at me from a dolly on the floor.
That, and the lake will be frozen for a while.

I'm hearing not broke, don't fix.

Steve,
I took a look at my manual since the reduction trans has the screen in a different location than the 1:1. The spring is there to apply pressure on the screen to seat the screen at the inlet port to the pump. If the screen isn't seated, the pump will draw oil from the sump instead of the return line from the trans cooler. The washer is a spacer and may not be needed depending on how deep the bushing threads into the trans case. I would get the screen and then see how well the new screen will seat at the bottom. If the screen is loose when the bushing is tightened, you will have to come up with some kind of a spacer. I'd look for a O ring since it has some "give" to it and take up the space. A Buna-n O ring will be fine and is typically what local hardware stores carry. Do check the material though.

Steve,
Have you had a chance to call the number Ken provided? I'm curious as to what they say about the spring and washer.
Ken,
Excellent advice to call

Steve,
Good to know about the screen on the reduction Velvets. Thanks for getting back to us. The 1:1 that I'm familiar with, has a spacer tube that positions the screen deeper in the sump so there's additional stack height. Yes, I curious on how the screen will seat. Do get back to us. Thanks again.

Steve,
Great info. It sounds like you won't have a problem without the spring. Thanks for getting back to us.