(Inspection)Torrance CA 2/6. 87 Correct Craft

You need to remove the rear seat and the lift out floor section. The boats have a tendency to crack/delaminate where the floor meets the top of the secondary stringer (where the lift out floor section touches).

They also tend to crack/rot at the front of the exhaust wells where the secondary stringer is tied to the main stringer. If this area has some cracking that is fairly normal..

There is a thread on how to do stringer tests. It is visual, also uses the wrench test on the top bolts and side thru bolts on the engine cradle. Also important to take a small metal hammer and tap around all of the areas in question to listen for a (Dead or hollow sound) which would point towards delamination and rot being behind the areas where the sound isn't so solid.

Make sure it goes in and out of gear (wet the strut bearing with a hose first). This won't ensure 100% proper trans operation but it will let you know it's probably ok if he says it is. Also leaves the variable of a bent shaft or propeller that needs rebuilt,

The engine should start up nicely without to much pumping and idle well. Also it needs to rev really cleanly and crisply while in neutral.

3500 is pretty cheap for a 2001 so it is probably going to have some issues.

If the main stringers seem solid and the floor isn't to soft it will get you by for quite a few years even if it has some signs of delam or stringer rot. You have to remember, if it has some rot for 3000 bucks if you are able to run it for 5 years that's only costing you 600 bucks a year. You will spend more than that on maintenance and fuel.

phatsat67 wrote: You need to remove the rear seat and the lift out floor section. The boats have a tendency to crack/delaminate where the floor meets the top of the secondary stringer (where the lift out floor section touches). They also tend to crack/rot at the front of the exhaust wells where the secondary stringer is tied to the main stringer. If this area has some cracking that is fairly normal.. There is a thread on how to do stringer tests. It is visual, also uses the wrench test on the top bolts and side thru bolts on the engine cradle. Also important to take a small metal hammer and tap around all of the areas in question to listen for a (Dead or hollow sound) which would point towards delamination and rot being behind the areas where the sound isn't so solid. Make sure it goes in and out of gear (wet the strut bearing with a hose first). This won't ensure 100% proper trans operation but it will let you know it's probably ok if he says it is. Also leaves the variable of a bent shaft or propeller that needs rebuilt, The engine should start up nicely without to much pumping and idle well. Also it needs to rev really cleanly and crisply while in neutral. 3500 is pretty cheap for a 2001 so it is probably going to have some issues. If the main stringers seem solid and the floor isn't to soft it will get you by for quite a few years even if it has some signs of delam or stringer rot. You have to remember, if it has some rot for 3000 bucks if you are able to run it for 5 years that's only costing you 600 bucks a year. You will spend more than that on maintenance and fuel.

Thank you I did come across this pre-inspection list also,

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=18605&title=new-guy-here

phatsat67 wrote: Good luck, If it runs/isn't completely rotten/looks pretty good/has a usable interior you really cant go wrong for that price range. If its a bit rough and its your first rig just use the hell out of it and make memories until you have enough cash to really buy a perfect boat. You will learn on the not so nice one so things you hurt won't matter as much to you.

That's the situation I am in. I wanted to be under $6-$7k and there are some really nice boats in AZ / CA in that range. Looking between; correct craft, centurion, supra, and malibu. I've been out on friends boats last few years and decided it was time to get into it myself. I would rather buy something less expensive , get a feel for everything on my own, see how often I go out, and then look to upgrade boats in a few years.

Good luck with it. Good advice above.
Try and get something you can use right away and tweek along the way. Im betting you get hooked and move up as circumstances permit! Our family has had awesome times on ours, and believe it or not even when the occasional "mechanical challenge" rears its ugly head. (Not very often and usually a much better memory AFTER its over!) Welcome.
Pictures!

8122pbrainard wrote: Cory, We have had members help out with looking at boats for potential buyers. Maybe if you post more details on where the boat is you are looking at, someone will be willing to help?

Great idea, if any members are located in the Los Angeles area (Torrance) and would like to check the boat out with me, I am headed out early Saturday morning. I'll buy breakfast or provided gas money for your time!

CA really is a world of its own. There were a few attempts at CCF reunions there so try doing some searching for [previously] active members, more in the north than south, and also scan the Diaries.

google search: ca reunion site:correctcraftfan.com/forum

desertskier wrote: Here is a SoCal guy. Are you sure the boat is an '87? I saw a listing for an '85 for $3500 on LA craigslist but nothing for an '87. post Send this guy a PM. Offer him some cash to check it out for you.

It is not currently listed online for sale. I will reach out to him. Thanks for the info!

It looks OK from the pictures. Probably worth looking at. Just keep in mind what others have stated. You can spend a bunch of money pretty quickly on a boat that has problems. I have seen some nice boats in Phoenix the last few years in the 6K range. I bought my '89 from a guy in Tempe for a little less than that.