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GT40 Electrical Question

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ScottZ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ScottZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: GT40 Electrical Question
    Posted: February-14-2016 at 10:12pm
I have a GT40 in my 98 Sport Nautique. Sometimes when I run it fast past 30 mph or so for any period of time the 60 amp breaker on the engine will kick out. I loose power to the dash but the engine will continue to run until I stop the engine. Sometimes the breaker will reset immediately afterwards and other times I may have to wait a short period of time before it will reset. I have noticed the volt gauge jumping around some when I am operating the boat. One scenario I though of is that I may have an alternator or regulator issue. I have not had this checked out yet but that may need to be my next move.
Scott Zuelzke
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2016 at 11:14pm
poor man's GT40 guide

Scott--

I would spend a little time reading through this topic.....this is in there somewhere, I've just never experienced this issue, so better I don't give you bad advice. I'm sure others will recall what caused this issue for them personally.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2016 at 11:19pm
You do mean your '98, not your '89 right?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ScottZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-14-2016 at 11:32pm
Thank you!
Yes. typo
Scott Zuelzke
Lake Mitchell , AL
       
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2016 at 12:04am
Scott, I seem to recall someone finding loose connections right at the battery causing the big breaker to pop. Wiggle them and see if you find anything.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2016 at 5:17am
Scott,
Peter's idea of checking the terminations at the battery would be my first recommendation as well. Do you use a battery post cleaner?



If that doesn't have an effect, then something's going on with the alternator regulation. What type battery is in the boat? Hopefully it's not a deep cycle.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ScottZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2016 at 2:55pm
I have a group 64 automotive battery maintenance free version. It is a year old. When I bought the boating 08 I replace the battery cable end(s) due to one or both being rough. I cut the cable back and skinned back the insulation and installed a terminal that has to be crimped with a crimping tool. I have never had any corrosion issues. Maybe it is possible that I have a connection problem where the terminal is crimped to the cable. Your thoughts?
Scott Zuelzke
Lake Mitchell , AL
       
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2016 at 3:13pm
Its not a gt40 issue, its either a wiring or a charging system issue. The over 30 would tend to indicate that it happens due to a voltage regulator issue causing it to push more amps and pop the breaker. It could be a weak breaker that simply pops early. Otherwise it could be a short in a hot wire grounding to the engine intermittently causing the breaker to pop. Nothing to mess around with either way - I would give the wiring to and from the battery and two and from the alternator to the charger a once over then consider changing the breaker.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2016 at 3:47pm
Scott,
If you have or have access to a clamp on amp meter that will read DC, I suggest checking the amps at the breaker. As Joe mentions, breakers can go bad but typically there's a reason for it. They don't like to be reset very many times which seems to decrease their trip point. Even some brands of circuit breakers in a home will as well. Testing first is always a plus instead of just throwing parts at a problem.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bri892001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2016 at 8:28pm
Here is an example of a clamp amp/multi meter:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-digital-clamp-on-ammeter/p-03482369000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&gclid=CjwKEAiAi4a2BRCu_eXo3O_k3hUSJABmN9N1mUKo4zwFZKYvHIUef9W0HkLm9df7Dpu-uGZ2gcCFhhoCiGrw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

You need the clamp type to measure any kind of real amperage without blowing the meter's fuse. Bear in mind, not all clamp multimeters measure DC amperage.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-15-2016 at 8:58pm
Scott,
I'd like to add to Brian's comment regarding the clamp on multi meter. If you don't have one get one! They are invaluable at diagnosing electrical problems with your boat, car or house. They are easy to use and come with directions. You don't need to be an EE to use it and we're always around to help! Also, it saves you from becoming just a "parts changer" and possibly saving you about $80.00 if you just check the wiring and then replace the breaker!


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