GT40 fuel pumps inoperative |
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tryathlete
Platinum Member Joined: April-19-2013 Location: Lake Villa, IL Status: Offline Points: 1797 |
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How many hours are on the boat now?
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tryathlete
Platinum Member Joined: April-19-2013 Location: Lake Villa, IL Status: Offline Points: 1797 |
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Take a look at the other thread on CCF. There's a picture of the fuse holder for the EEC right by the battery box on a pigtail line off the battery. That would stop power to your fuel pumps wouldn't it?
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tryathlete
Platinum Member Joined: April-19-2013 Location: Lake Villa, IL Status: Offline Points: 1797 |
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jhersey29
Senior Member Joined: February-20-2014 Location: Colorado Status: Offline Points: 272 |
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lewy2001
Grand Poobah Joined: March-19-2008 Location: NSW Australia Status: Offline Points: 2234 |
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A 2000 model GT40 will have slightly different wiring based around the keypad and gateway box. The wiring loom to the engine should be almost the same. If the pumps do not run when you ground the STO then you have no power to your pumps. The EEC relay actually activates the fuel pump relay. Check voltages at the EEC relay terminal 87. They do have 5 pins but only 4 pins are used. You may need to make up 4 little pigtail leads for the relay so you can get at the terminals for testing. I would firstly check that all the breakers on the back of engine have 12Volts on both sides of breaker and then go onto the EEC relay from there.
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If you're going through hell, keep going
89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
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Green 2000
Newbie Joined: August-08-2011 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 28 |
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I thought I had replied to this earlier, but I don't see the reply on the thread.
I am not sure how to use the pigtails you referenced. If I am checking voltages on the female connector disconnected from the relay, I don't need pigtails do I? If I am supposed to check voltages with the relay connected, I don't understand how to get the pigtails inserted. I know the relay has to be installed in order for me to check the voltage output to the fuel pumps. When I return I will be able to check for voltage at the fuel pump connectors. I am guessing I will find 0 since neither pump runs. It would be a real coincidence for both pumps to fail simultaneously. And in case you did not see the earlier note, I did replace both relays and it made no change. Thank you for your help, and I apologize for being difficult to train. |
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Finally a Nautique Owner
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Green 2000
Newbie Joined: August-08-2011 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 28 |
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there are less than 200 hours on the boat. The hour meter was working when I first bought the boat and it had 46 hours. I installed a PPass on it at the time and set the hours to 46. It now has something less than 200 hours. For real.
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Finally a Nautique Owner
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Green 2000
Newbie Joined: August-08-2011 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 28 |
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The text in the diagram from Gary S indicates that there is a 50 amp fuse in the same circuit as the 12.5 A circuit breaker. If my boat has that fuse, I don't know where it is. Can anyone tell me where that fuse is located?
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Finally a Nautique Owner
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lewy2001
Grand Poobah Joined: March-19-2008 Location: NSW Australia Status: Offline Points: 2234 |
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David I doubt that you have the 50 amp in line fuse. If you did it would be in the battery box. Not sure what year they were phased out but 2000 would be pretty close.
Have you checked the voltage at the breakers on rear of engine? 6oA is main power 15A is fuel pump power and 12.5A is EEC power The little big tail wires are just short wires about 6" with male and female spade connectors on them so you can measure all the voltages with the relays in circuit. |
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If you're going through hell, keep going
89 Ski <a href="http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=5685" ta |
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Green 2000
Newbie Joined: August-08-2011 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 28 |
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Thanks for the pigtail pics; now I understand. I didn't think about adding the spade connectors, which now seem so obvious.
It didn't click to me that the 50A fuse in the text is the one that others discuss as being in the battery box; And no I do not have that fuse in my 2000 model year. I won't be able to get back to my boat for another week to do the voltage checks. |
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Finally a Nautique Owner
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Green 2000
Newbie Joined: August-08-2011 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 28 |
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Want to thank everyone and give a summary of what I found.
Turns out there were three different problems and I am not sure which was the original problem but I think it was the failure of the LP pump. I also had lanyard switch and HP pump issues. I did all the voltage testing suggested by lewy2001 (thank you) and found no problems with relays, etc. I tinned some 20 gauge wire to insert into the power connector at the LP pump so I could test the voltage there and found 12V. So I replaced the LP pump and the new LP pump would run but boat still not start. I started to replace the HP pump but found that when I took the FCC canister off, that the wiring connectors were no longer connected. My first trouble shooting step had been to replace the HP fuel filter. Apparently when replacing the filter, and while twisting the canister back into place, the pump was turning along with the canister and twisted the wiring connectors until they came loose. I used glycerine to lube the pump so it would not turn in the filter turned within the canister and glycerine on the filter plastic so the filter would not turn. After re-installing the filter the boat started and ran fine. I then put my safety lanyard switch back in. The boat started fine so I left it. Next day, the boat would not start so I bypassed the lanyard switch again and it starts fine again. So, sometime I developed an intermittent problem with the switch. thank you to everyone who took the time to respond! |
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Finally a Nautique Owner
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tryathlete
Platinum Member Joined: April-19-2013 Location: Lake Villa, IL Status: Offline Points: 1797 |
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Gun-driver; good call on wires inside the pump. My feeling is that the LPP are the weakest link in the GT-40 system. What I cannot figure out is how Ford Pickup trucks don't suffer this same ailment! What does the Marine version of this reliable engine have going against it that a truck doesn't? Moisture? Massively greater fuel flow nominally? Under hood (engine cover) heat?
I'm so glad you're now into the "post-fix" honeymoon period with your boat. |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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I think one difference Pete is that a ford vehicle has only one pump,it's in the tank keeping cool and pushing. Don't think for one second that they were immune from fuel issues either. The mechanic at work went thru a lot of fuel pumps on Fords and Chevy's too. He showed us that by turning on the key and hitting the bottom of the fuel tank you could get it going again. It seems the motor would start to fail by loosing a segment. If it would stop on that dead segment,it would not go again when you turned the key back on. One thing I think that helps on our 2 boats is the engine compartment being so large and the venting on either side of it that DD boats don't have
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tryathlete
Platinum Member Joined: April-19-2013 Location: Lake Villa, IL Status: Offline Points: 1797 |
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Ha--that's how I kept mine working until the new one arrived. Bang bang bang. Fortunately no BOOM!
As an aside the bilge pumps were not as advertised and had to return them. On a good note both of them are still working on my boat. |
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Bri892001
Grand Poobah Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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I added the fix to the diagnosis thread:
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=25584&PID=503419 |
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