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1982 Ski Nautique 2001 Throttle Cable Replacement |
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ablackler 
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Joined: May-25-2016 Location: San Antonio, TX Status: Offline Points: 15 |
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 Topic: 1982 Ski Nautique 2001 Throttle Cable ReplacementPosted: November-16-2016 at 12:29am |
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We were on our final run of this season over the weekend and I believe the throttle cable broke. I can shift in and out of gear but can't get out of idle.Does anyone have suggestions on finding a replacement and any tips or tricks for replacing the cable? Are there other cables I should plan to replace while I am working on this project? I am also wondering how much water should I expect to leak into the bilge area while running? It seems there is constantly water in the bilge area and the pump works every hour or so.We just purchased this boat in the spring, so this is all new to me. Thanks for sharing lessons learned! Adam |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: November-16-2016 at 7:16am |
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Adam,
Check go2marine for the cables. They have the best price. Replace both the shift and the throttle. The R&R is very straight forward. Use the old cables taped to the new to pull them through. You also want to replace the cable connections on the ends BTW, it may be just the cable ends that wore through? |
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Morfoot
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Joined: February-06-2004 Location: South Lanier Status: Offline Points: 5320 |
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Posted: November-16-2016 at 8:07am |
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Pete didn't address the excess water in the bilge. The excess water you have is probably coming from the gland packing on the drive shaft or the rudder shaft. You'll need to check the drip rate on each and tighten the nut on each accordingly. It's possible that it's never been changed and over the boats winter hibernation you can change both cheaply and easily.
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"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: November-16-2016 at 8:28am |
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Tim,
Thanks for addressing the possible shaft and rudder port packing. Adam, I'd like to add that the rudder port packing can be tightened more than the prop shaft packing since it's not constantly rotating at a high RPM like the prop shaft, I like to get the port down to no drips but still being able to turn the helm wheel with relative ease. I also suggest using the GFO packing Do check if you need the 1/4" or the 3/16" before ordering. |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: November-16-2016 at 9:09am |
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Adam,
Besides the packing potentially leaking, there are other spots that you should look at. The exhaust hose, mufflers, thru hulls and even the cooling system. It sounds like you have pulled the boat out for the season so checking for leaks in the exhaust can be done by filling the bilge with about 5" of water and seeing if any comes out. The engine cooling system can even be done out of the water by hooking up the garden hose to the hose off the thru hull water pick up and running the engine. Check it out and report back as to what you find. |
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GottaSki
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Joined: April-21-2005 Location: NE CT Status: Offline Points: 3363 |
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Posted: November-16-2016 at 10:48am |
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I suggest replace both throttle and shift cables
don;t like to rely on 30+ year old cables when navigating near people in the water And inspect and replace the pivot ends as Pete sez. |
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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole |
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ablackler
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Joined: May-25-2016 Location: San Antonio, TX Status: Offline Points: 15 |
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Posted: November-16-2016 at 7:18pm |
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Tim and Pete,
Thanks so much for the guidance and info! I looked at the throttle cable and it is still attached to the throttle lever and at the carb. When I push the throttle lever down, I can manually move the throttle at the carb and it sounds like it is hitting under the floor at the driver's seat, so I pretty sure it is broken. I am going to order both cables and fittings and work on this over Thanksgiving break. Is there any advantage of pulling the new cable from one way or the other? How do I measure the drip rate of the drive shaft and rudder? I assume they should leak when I fill it with water to check the exhaust for leaks? Are there any tricks to repacking or a site you suggest to look at with a video on doing this? I will look on YouTube tonight, I am guessing someone has posted how to do this. Thanks again for the help! Adam |
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ablackler
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Posted: November-16-2016 at 7:20pm |
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Gotta Ski,
Thanks for confirming replacing both cables! Adam |
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ablackler
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Posted: January-03-2017 at 2:24am |
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Pete,
I finally got to the cables and the throttle cable from Go2marine worked great! They quickly found what I needed. I did end up having to replace the brass fitting at the throttle as well. It was close to failure from use. The transmission cable is still a work in progress, it is far tougher to replace! Thanks for the help and guidance. Adam |
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ablackler
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Posted: January-03-2017 at 2:33am |
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Thanks fellas for the guidance on the possible source of leakage. After changing the oil and throttle cable, I filled it up with water and I have a steady drip at the drive shaft and a near stream at the rudder. I will do some researching on how to repack both and make this my next project. Then changing the transmission fluid, then......
Oh man, I have never worked on mechanical projects and they all seem to take 5 times as long as I expect them to, so I hope it all is worth it! If I end up needing to source some of this out does anyone have suggestion on reputable service shops around San Antonio, Tx? Thanks to all for the help, Adam |
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