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Replacing Manifolds?

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td_in_nc View Drop Down
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    Posted: November-26-2016 at 11:01am
I think the previous owner of my boat (2000 Supra - yes I know not a CC) used it in brackish water from time to time (had a flush kit). One thing in the back of my mind is the exhaust manifolds. I have removed some heavy rust call off the bottom exterior of the manifolds, but they appear solid once the scale was removed and they do not leak. Also a couple of the bolt heads are almost all rusted away.

The boat runs great and does not overheat. Because of the fear of the unknown or having a mid-season repair with lots of down time, I am considering as a winter project removing the manifolds and checking them out. I am sure getting the manifold bolts will be a challenge.

I am guessing it is not common for manifolds to have heavy rust scale on the bottom, but I am looking for a little advice if I should take it apart or leave it alone?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACS81SN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-26-2016 at 6:20pm
Actually it is normal for the exhaust ports, portion of the manifold bolted to cylinder head, to be rusty. This area probably operates in excess of 800 degrees. At this temperature, the iron reacts with oxygen in air to form iron oxides (rust). Heating and cooling of this area causes the rust to flake off as iron and rust expand and contract at different rates

Going through and testing the manifolds now and finding them okay is no guarantee something won't happen next summer or 5 years from now.   I think I would just leave them alone. JMO
Mark

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1981 - SN Owned 33 years - Sold
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john b View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-26-2016 at 9:55pm
I agree with macs81sn. An inspection only gaurantees they are good at inspection time. I would also suggest you just run it and enjoy it. I suspect the boat was used in salt water a good deal to be that rusty. Here is the engine in the 93 Supra I currently have under my wing for comparison..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-26-2016 at 11:36pm
John B:

How is your ProTec holding up?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-27-2016 at 12:37am
Hmmmm, where would I find my Pro-tech? Is that what they call this PCM engine?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-27-2016 at 8:54am
John,
The Pro-tech is the ignition system on the PCM engine. Note the 4 coil packs on the aft end of the engine and then instead of a typical distributor there's a device in it's position that senses engine rotation and position. They are notorious for failure but conversion kits back to a standard distributor and coil are available. There are some "how to" threads on the conversion. Good luck with it as parts for the Pro-tech are NLA. Just don't use the boat and you'll be fine!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-27-2016 at 12:23pm
Pete is spot-on. In the early 1990's, PCM came up with the ProTec Electronic Engine Management System. The components of ProTec consisted of a combined computerized control module and coil assembly, sensor (trigger) activated by an interrupter timing system (which replaces the conventional distributor), a new wiring harness, 8 M.M. silicone ignition wires, temperature and oil switches and a knock sensor. (Your sensor "trigger" is that thing that looks like a big hockey puck where your distributor would normally go)

PCM used this system on many engines between 1990 (I think) and 1994. The ProTec system was also used in the first PCM offering of throttle-body electronic fuel injection (1994).

Many people consider the ProTec system to be a "ticking time-bomb" as they are prone to failure -- often without warning. Symptoms may include hard-starting, poor engine performance (as one or more of the coil packs are failing). engine running in "limp-home" mode, or engine just quits for no apparent reason. Parts for ProTech are NLA (no longer available).

Something for you to look forward to...



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-27-2016 at 12:37pm
1991-1995
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-27-2016 at 2:43pm
Thanks for the education guys, you have my attention. I have seen Pro-Tech mentioned on the forum before but never bothered doing any research since it didn't apply to me.....until now. This must be very relevant to CCs as well as other manufacturers, I would guess there are a lot of these enginesut there. I would think it would be an easy and inexpensive fix to replace the trigger assembly with a DUI distributor. Is there something more to it than that? This boat has about 430 hours on it and has never had a problem, but I suspect it is like most electronic components and doesn't have a problem until it does. I will keep a tow line handy. I am just the guardian of the Supra TS6m. It belongs to my nephew who got it new for his 16th birthday. It has been in storage much of its life. He does his water sports these days behind a boat more appropriate to this forum.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-27-2016 at 3:06pm
John:

You are correct in your assessment. If/when ProTec fails, one simple solution is to replace the system with the DUI you mentioned.

JPASS did a nice write-up on the ProTec to DUI swap-out. See the LINK below:

LINK to ProTec Replacement
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-27-2016 at 3:14pm
desertskier has mentioned low voltage contributing or whole heartedly causing failure. A comparison would be welded starter solenoid due to corroded battery cables.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote john b Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-27-2016 at 3:33pm
Seems logical, low voltage-high amperage.
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