I'm an idiot... problems at the ramp

So, I have mentioned that this is my first Nautique, and I am working through some rough running issues...

To that end, I went to put the boat in the water to give it a test run, by myself. Something told me to keep it strapped to the trailer, but did I? Nope.





So, there it sits. I checked underneath and it was sitting on the prop and rudder.


The rudder is not bent, it just is scraped up on the bottom edge.

I am so mad at myself, I can't see straight!

A little word of caution: Trailer bunk glides are REALLY slick!

I put these on my trailer over the weekend, and it really made loading it at the ramp easy. And I was able to "brake check" the boat up into the stops. But, I didn't think they were that slick.

I was not going fast down the ramp, and I did not hit the brakes... But, I heard the sickening sound of metal on concrete and stopped immediately.

Anyway, that finishes my year as I will be returning to work soon, and have to winterize it by this weekend. What should I be on the lookout for before putting it back in the water next year, other than the obvious?

Don't be like me,

Scott

Don’t beat yourself up too much. But do put carpet back on the bunks. I was test driving a Ski Nautique once for another party out of state. Blah blah blah, finished up a lack luster test drive and the seller backed the trailer in really really deep. I thought well that’s not how I do out but wtf... I drive the boat onto the trailer. Boat is floating. Seller hooks the bow hook which had a broken safety clasp. Seller pulls out and for a moment the hook catches and pulls the boat with trailer but as the trailer started to grab the boat the bow shifted and knocked the broken safety hook off the bow eye. The trailer caught the boat for a second but as the boat was 85% out of the water, with me jumping, waving and shouting in the boat, seller had windows up, tunes on, ac max, and the boat slid off the trailer and landed completely out of the water, on concrete sitting on the hull and running gear.

I feel your pain...
I always thought it looked cool to drive-on/off at ramp. While everyone struggles with guides, winches, etc my wife would back in and before she came to a stop, the boat was on, pushing against stops as she gently drove out.
Boom! Done!
Always feared that the boat would simply slide off with me in it, fortunately never did.
Now I'm one of the guys winching and strapping before pulling out of water.
With a winch, try and mount it so the strap pulls level, and not downward. You don't want strap tension so tight downward that it 'lifts' the transom off the bunks.
Pretty boat btw...

ViperSammy wrote: And thanks, btw. It needs some gelcoat TLC. But, otherwise it's in really good shape. Scott

Is this before or after ramp incident? looks like now rudder and prop repair should be added and possibly new shaft

Sorry it happened. Might wish to convert back to carpeted bunks.
Even with carpet, if the carpet is wet the bunks are really slick. We should all keep this in mind.
I was in a car wreck while towing with wet bunks leaving the lake 4 years ago.   I had tie down straps on the back and poles with a winch in the front. The stop poles bent out in a huge V shape, my tie downs both snapped and the boat came up and over the guide poles and almost into my rear window.   This was from a panic stop and a 10 MPH collision.
The wet bunks offered little resistance to the boat sliding forward so I can imagine they offer little friction to keep the boat from sliding backwards.
I did see a boat slide off the trailer while pulling out years ago while fully loaded. It was a mess.
I now have a safety chain connected to keep the boat from going forward and another to keep it from going backwards on the trailer. We live and learn.
Our 78 Nautique had only the winch in the front, no straps in the rear and we used to drive it on the trailer and pull out every time, in the old days I was towing with a front wheel drive car that had no power, by powering the boat forward on the trailer it gave us enough power to get up the ramp, we never hooked the boat to the trailer till we were out and drying it off for the drive home. Looking back I think we were lucky to never have it slide off.

I think it will be prudent to use a dial indicator to verify your prop shaft is still straight.
Measure as close as you can near the propeller mount on the smooth surface not the threaded end. Slight bends will give you lots of vibration.
If it bent this is where you will find it.
Good Luck.
Mark

Yea those bunk glides work in both directions...

Johnny I believe I would have dirtied my pants also sitting in the boat when that happened.
The reason I added two chains was to keep the boat from sliding back with one and the second chain keeps it from sliding forward.
Going backwards my chain allows maybe 4" travel before it would stop the boat.
Going forward it might allow 2" forward travel before it tightens and stops the boat.
I found once it starts moving all that weight and speed of movement add force that can cause damage. Best to stop it early or keep it from moving to start with.
I was not smart enough to figure out how to achieve front and back movement with one chain.
Overkill to some I am sure but I had the failure and had to pay to fix the results.
It all happened because Deer ran out in front of us heading home from the lake.
And I learned from that, if Deer Run out in front hit them!   If you hit them your insurance blames the deer and you get a free pass, if you wreck while you miss the deer the insurance company blames you and you are charged as at fault with an accident on your record and paying deductables on the repairs.

Jonny Quest wrote: The only casualty was the soiled under armor...JQ

You've got me curious now JQ, boxers, briefs, boxer briefs, maybe boxer jocks ?

phatsat67 wrote: I'd look more at the shaft being bent than the propeller damages. You can check the shaft without driving. Go to Harbor Freight and pick up a cheap dial indicator with a magnetic base. Set it up aft of the strut as close to the taper as you can get it. Rotate it and record the differences in 90 degree increments. Sorry for your problems but at least there's no gel damage.

Thanks for that.

How hard is it to replace the shaft if it is bent?

And, any recommendations on which dial indicator? There are several on there, and I am sure one works better than the others.

Thanks again,

Scott

And.whatever you do ....................don't forget to take into account the all important issue of carpet directionality as so thoroughly discussed in typical CCF fashion in the thread linked below   

link

A piece of rope tied from the trailer to the lifting ring works wonders. Doesn't have to be tight, but will save your boat it slips back.

I would eat it and not deal with increased rates or nonrenewed policies headache.
They will get it back from you one way or the other
So I guess you have your choose of headache

Riley wrote: A piece of rope tied from the trailer to the lifting ring works wonders. Doesn't have to be tight, but will save your boat it slips back.

yup.





Not making sport of anyone, just "lessons learned" Pretty sure we've all done something like that. Those skids have bitten more than one person. I never did that, but I did almost sink my boat and fry my engine one spring when I dropped it in and started it up with the water inlet hose detached from the thru-hull.

Not as bad as one incident I witnessed at a ramp once. Guy backing his I/O down the ramp. About 20-30 feet shy of water, boat slid back. Lower unit dragging along the pavement. Guy in car didnt hear or see it. Kept backing up. Others in his party start screaming at him to stop. Finally did. Dont recall how he fixed it. Can imagine he winched it back up onto the trailer, but I dont remember.

ViperSammy wrote: Anyone had any luck filing an insurance claim for these "accidents"? Not trying to commit fraud, but I wonder if this would be covered? Scott

I hit an underwater rock and my insurance covered it. I have Boat US insurance. They didn't even blink. New prop, rudder. shaft, strut and some gel coat work. At the time it was about $7k. It doesn't hurt to ask them or contact your dealer and let them handle it. Also the dealer installed an ARE shaft, 4 blade prop and a tune-able rudder.

ViperSammy wrote: MourningWood wrote: With a winch, try and mount it so the strap pulls level, and not downward. You don't want strap tension so tight downward that it 'lifts' the transom off the bunks. Pretty boat btw... You wouldn't happen to have a good picture of your winch setup, would you? And thanks, btw. It needs some gelcoat TLC. But, otherwise it's in really good shape. Scott

Scott, Here's a link to the setup for my '80. LINK
Bunch of other threads on winch posts on the site as well.