Is my ski pylon bent??

KENO wrote: [QUOTE=67 ski nat] KENO. What’s next, pictures of all the fat chics I dated in high school PS ...................I'll work on the chic pics

Following this thread for sure...



john

It looks like a normal 73-75 pylon to me... later r/f, aluminum construction and just the chamfer at the top. If you’re saying it has an additional step/graduation somewhere along its length and is 2.5” at the base then that’s something I haven’t seen before. All 73-75 I’ve encountered look like yours and remain ~2” for the full length. Beauty ring at the floor (no welded flange). I’d like to see more pics of yours.

Either way, it’s far different from the 67 version pictured.

KENO wrote: It's in the link below, page 2 the 5th post down link PS ...................I'll work on the chic pics

Hah Ken, a few more posts down is my Blue Classic bought from Jake :)

Wonder how my pole is, I know I pull from it A LOT, sometimes even push!

Clear pic of the ~64-72 ring and finger from my 71:

Anyone else have a support bracket under floor
What holds it steady

67 ski nat wrote: Anyone else have a support bracket under floor What holds it steady

No, cc didn’t add any stringer clamping system until the aluminum engine cradle came in ‘80.

Good info TRB, thanks
I’ll have it made and try it, test fit

67 ski nat wrote: Anyone else have a support bracket under floor What holds it steady

My ski tique presumably started with the pylon just supported by the wood floor. Some previous owner put this metal support in, kind of like the one shown above. As you can see, it got bent. Pylon not bent, just this support. Not sure if I did it, but may have happened with a few four man pulls.





I tried shimming between the pylon and bent support but that never worked so I had three ideas on the table. 1- go back to all wood, like original 2 - remount this same support a little farther forward so it contacted pylon again (tho new holes so close to old holes in potentially less than super solid stringers concerned me) or 3- start fresh.

I went to a neighbor who is pretty good with such things. He said, Oh, I'll whip you up a new one, which he proceeded to do that afternoon with some stock he had laying around.




Well, I was a little concerned that that one of the four holes for the mounting screws was 16/10,000s off, but decided I could live with it.



It bolted to the stringers in 6 spots. Notice how the top support piece is not welded on but bolted on. That was so it could be removed to access the center bolts. Guy thought of everything. He's pretty handy. This other project he is working on was on the other side of his shop.

Pete and 75 tique, my non-oem bracket looks just like 75’s first one, only mine was made of angle iron and not bent like 75’s (your flat bar bent
Nice looking new one, I’m feeling better about re-fabrication of bracket now

Waffles

Thanks TRB. My pylon and finger matches the 60’s version good to know it’s original
Having it powder coated today (anodized silver aluminum). Kinda looks stainless

Sure most I see are white
It looked really nice in bare metal after I cleaned And sanded it
Thought a stainless color would match other metal hardware

Gary S wrote: I painted mine silver as well but tired of it. When I redid the boat I went with the white

Yes, keep it original!

I understand original for sure, and need that input
But powder coating is superior to paint
I can not find stainless color paint, so that color is good base
I can always paint white over stainless coating like Gary S
If it does not look right I can paint white and clear