GT-40 Zero oil pressure. Ticking engine. Help!

The two bearings I pulled looked fine and very smooth. The crank looked perfect, and checking the tolerance with plastigage was perfect at .0015”. I pulled the furthest forward main bearing as well and it was still covered in oil and looked perfect. Torqued everything back down. New oil pump arrived today shaft should be here tomorrow. I will slap the pump and shaft on and throw it back in for the fourth!

My guess is that a small piece of oil pan gasket silicone got sucked into the pump? I was in a hurry last year putting the oil pan on...

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Is the transmission in (clean) neutral? Sounds like a NSS issue.

I'm assuming with key on you got normal dash power, gas gauge reading, etc.? Doubt the battery is the problem, or the connections, since you were running right until you lost oil pressure and connections are new since you reinstalled the engine.

I just got the starter to turn by jumping from the battery/big wire to the starter post to the little wire to the starter post

Have you checked the main breaker?

It’s the breaker! I jumped the breaker and turned the key and the starter turned! Can I find a replacement for this breaker locally???

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/automotive-rv-and-marine/recreational-vehicle-parts-and-accessories/rv-electrical-equipment/85765?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkuWftcCt6gIVhsDACh21ywvREAQYASABEgKxgPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Would this work?

camron18 wrote: This is getting very frustrating... I have 12.7 volts at the battery cables at the back of the engine as soon as I mount the ground to the bell housing I loose my 12.7v but the gages are on. Is there a ground wire that goes somewhere else? I have one for the battery cable one on the male side of the wiring harnesses one on the female side and one that I cut and wire nutted with the dui swap.

If you have the main breaker open/tripped and have power to your gauges like you say, then you have some wiring issues somewhere.

With the engine OFF and the main breaker open you shouldn't have power to anything at the dash

The starter and the solenoid on the back of the engine would have power and like you mentioned you could jumper the wires at the solenoid and the starter would turn over, but you'd have no power to the coil to make the engine run. That would be your "big wire" and "little wire" you mentioned.

But.......if jumpering around the breaker gets you going, putting a new breaker in will work and you could figure out the other issues later since you probably had them before

Here's an original ProTec wiring diagram with a 50 amp main breaker so if you were to find a 40 or 50 amp breaker to replace yours with you should be good to go

The 30 amp you linked above would work. It may not be "marine rated" for spark protection though.

camron18 wrote: Maybe it’s the ignition switch???

What's the VOM (volt Ohm meter) telling you? Volts to the coil when the switch is in the run position?

camron18 wrote: New ignition switch now in... sorry Pete. Same thing. I’ve reset the timing 10 times now with no change. It runs as long as I hold the key to start, even if I give it more gas, as soon as I let off the key it dies, I have 12v to the coil on the dui. With the key on.

I seem to recall hearing about this issue that related to the safety lanyard. Maybe bypass it to rule it out.

Best possible ending. This is what makes CCF So unique.

I want to say good job too, but I think I'll wait until Cam posts here that the boat is running well under load in the water