Still Happy with your Protec Conversion?

With my old Protec set up I was using cheap copper Autolite 104 plugs @.040 or .045 gap (can't remember). I believe that was the closest cross reference to the original plug which has been superseded several times . Looks like I'll now switch to Autolite AP104 platinum plug with a .055 gap.

Performance Distributors says
"In most applications, we recommend using Autolite Platinum Spark Plugs. These plugs have worked very well with our Distributors and Firepower Ignition Kits. You should retain the same heat range your engine calls for but open the spark plug gaps to the recommended setting as set forth by the distributor or ignition kit instructions"

Sound reasonable?

You could do a ground from the distributor housing to the block, but you really shouldn't have to.

Did you use thermal paste on the back of the replacement module when you installed it?

If not, it's a good way to cook a module

Sure that's the right one? It shows 103 when I look it up. Supposedly it's TP33 The Ford number is/was F1PZ-12A297-A

Gary S wrote: Sure that's the right one? It shows 103 when I look it up. Supposedly it's TP33 The Ford number is/was F1PZ-12A297-A

In my manual it said AWSF22 as original - after researching like crazy it looked like most people were using the Autolite 764 plug - and Autolite now superseded the 764 to the 104.
The 103 and 104 are the exact same spec plug dimensions except the 104 is slightly hotter.
I guess I'll run it and take a look at the plug color after the DUI install.

Feels like Christmas! Going to do the install this afternoon.

1TAZZ wrote: Yes I have been using the grease that comes with it. I keep asking myself could I have got two bad modules. Going to NAPA today and try one of their Modules, I was told that the Echelin brand work well . $43 bucks and I don't have to get it shipped .

Have you measured the input voltage at the distributor? I sent an email to Performance some time ago and asked what problems low input voltage would cause and they said just bad performance but who knows maybe it degrades the module. I think it's worth checking if you haven't already.

First comment about the new DUI is just wow! Its incredibly smooth. Set initial timing to 10 degrees and then saw a total of 31 degrees at 3000 RPM.   It takes longer to clean up the old wiring harness than doing the install. Only glitch I had was first connecting the DUI 12v supply to the starter solenoid - the engine would start then shut off in about 2-3 seconds - finally figured that out - the 12v supply needed to be the other bolt on the relay which is the ignition - 12v while ignition is on.   

At this point If you are even considering an ignition change I wouldn't hesitate to get the DUI. The real test will be how she runs in the water the next 3 days.   

Oh No..............it's the "I" terminal discussion back again

The diagram below of a ProTec system will show where the "I" terminal voltage comes from when the key is in RUN

t's physically impossible for the power to come from within the solenoid except when the key is in START.

In RUN there's no power to the "I" terminal from within but if you look at wire number 42 with the fusible link in it, when the key is in RUN there's power from the 12.5 amp breaker and if you hook your ignition supply to that you have power.

The real function of that wire is to provide maximum voltage during starting (in parallel with the supply from the key, but with no diode or anything in that wire it keeps the "I" terminal powered and is a convenient spot to grab 12 volt power from.

In RUN the power comes from the key through the 8 pin connector (wire #28) which ties into wire #41 which supplies the 12.5 amp breaker which then supplies the coil packs through wire #26.

So...........depending on how much of the Protec wiring you remove, you can have power coming to the "I" terminal externally with the key in RUN.

This might be as clear as mud and the diagram makes you about half blind following some of those wires, but that's how to have power on the "I" terminal to supply the ignition system in RUN.

.

Exactly. Just don't disconnect the fusible link. And now you are connected to the unprotected side of the 13.5 breaker so it's basically doing nothing. The 20 amp ignition breaker is still protecting it so no big deal except you could fry the harness wiring instead of just popping the 13.5 breaker.

edit: I guess the fusible link is still protecting it but that is just a weird way to connect it.

1TAZZ wrote: Update on DUI trouble so I installed the new module and boat would still not run right. So walked back to my shop and opened the hood of my wife's 1980 corvette and pulled ignition coil just to see if coil was bad. I installed The old GM coil and the boat started right up. It ran great all weekend. I will be calling DUI Monday looking for a replacement coil. I think it must have be the coil the whole time. She don"t know i parted out her car yet LOL.

Just put the bad coil in her car and let her figure out that it won't start   

Then you can "troubleshoot" and tell her it's a bad coil and be her hero.

Then buy another AC Delco coil if they won't send you a freebie

desertskier wrote: Ignition voltage at the starter solenoid?? It only has battery voltage and the starting circuit voltage.

I should have said Relay and not Starter Solenoid.

She ran great over the last 3 days. - It sounds like I should go back and definitely change a couple things after reading your and Keno's posts. I picked up the 12v to power the distributor from the Relay. It must have been the "S" terminal.       I verified no voltage when key is off. 12v when key is on.   I guess I really should move my distributor 12v power source to the 12.5 breaker and not from the Relay directly.   

Nauti Gator wrote: She ran great over the last 3 days.

Read your quote 3 times slowly and maybe you'll decide to change nothing

It works and it has overcurrent protection now, but you could move the supply to the output of the 12.5 amp breaker ( it must be sitting there kinda lonely supplying nothing since it only fed the old coil packs and nothing else.)

desertskier wrote: The original wiring had the starting circuit separated from the ignition circuit by the fusible link. You have the distributor connected to the starting circuit. Your distributor is not protected from a short in the starting relay etc... Would probably never happen but I would move it back to the original configuration.

Sounds like good advice
Thanks!

Nauti Gator wrote: KENO wrote: By the way, all you guys getting less than the advertised 24 degrees mechanical advance out of your DUI distributor should call and complain about their false advertising and see what they have to say You might think about timing light accuracy too depending on what you're using I've been using a Craftsman induction timing light for prob the last 10 years - may not be the most accurate. Also, I just noticed in my old PCM Quick Reference Guide is says "Ignition Timing of all PRO-TEC and PTI Engines Must Be Set at 3600 RPM" Then in the notes section of the PCM manual it says "The timing at 4,000 RPM should never exceed 30 degrees BTDC, in engines equipped with ignition points, to ensure reliability and performance with 89 octane fuel" I tested the timing at 3000 RPM and got 30-31 degrees. I can recheck at 3600 and see if there is any more timing coming in. Granted I don't have points but now without any knock sensor in the system maybe a total 30-31 degrees is a good safe limit.

Nothing wrong with a good ol' Craftsman light.

Some of the dial back lights can be a little sketchy, finicky or whatever word you want to use

I wouldn't worry, "you got what you got" and it runs good