Forums
NautiqueParts.comNautiqueSkins.com - Correct Craft Upholstery and Part
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Ticking noise from front of engine
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Register Register  Login Login

Ticking noise from front of engine
 Post Reply Post Reply Page    <12
Author
  Topic Search Topic Search  Topic Options Topic Options
KENO View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah


Joined: June-06-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 11112 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-07-2021 at 7:56pm
Originally posted by Wilhelm Hertzog Wilhelm Hertzog wrote:

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Have you taken the key out to see if the sprocket will slide all the way on?

You might need to clean up the key and the shaft a bit to let it go on easily

Said key doesn't want to come out without a fight. The parts manual diagram suggests it is a semi-circular woodruff key, so if I hit down on one end with a punch or such like, the other end should pop up and out, right? Or is there a better way to get the key out?

if it's putting up too much of a fight, leave it alone so you don't end up mushrooming or otherwise damaging the key or the shaft. Sometimes they're a bear to get out and if you don't absolutely have to, just clean up the shaft and key as much as you can.

Keep in mind that you're working right over the open sump so any dropped stuff ends up in the oil pan Wink
Back to Top
Wilhelm Hertzog View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: June-14-2014
Location: Cape Town
Status: Offline
Points: 334 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wilhelm Hertzog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-22-2021 at 4:58pm
After a good bit of spirited tapping with a punch and a chisel, and prying with a screwdriver, the key eventually came out. The key (not the crank) was causing the binding. A few gentle passes with a file (and cleaning up the 'tap' marks) got the sprocket sliding over it eventually. So that took care of the timing set. Installing the sleeve on the balancer (after leaving it in the freezer overnight) went smoothly using a bench vice and piece of wood to gradually press it on squarely.

After not planning to do so initially, I decided the timing cover really does need a new paint job. Took me a while to get it properly cleaned up, but I'm now ready to paint. Two questions:

  1. To me it would make sense to paint the area of the timing cover behind the water pump backing plate: it is exposed metal, does not get any corrosion protection from oil, and paint flaking off from that area won't end up in the oil pan. Yet it seems that that is not standard practice (refer for example to this image: link). Why not?
  2. Anything to choose between black or Ford Blue for the colour of the paint?
And then a few questions as I'm approaching installing the cover:

  1. Looking at the semi-circular rubber timing cover to oil pan gasket, it seems that it is too big to fit snugly into the groove on the timing cover that it is meant to go into. Do the two tabs/ears circled in the picture below have to be trimmed for a proper fit? Or is it meant to fit correctly 'as is'?

The automotive forums have various differing views on what the best plan of attack is to install the cover. I intend to proceed as follows:

  1. Apply a bead of silicone around the water ports on both sides of the timing cover to block gasket
  2. Stick all the gaskets (timing cover to block, rubber semi-circle, cork corner seal) onto the timing cover using either RTV or gluing them down. Any recommendation between RTV or glue?
  3. Apply a bead of RTV in the oil pan/engine block corner.
  4. Fit the timing cover (taking care not to damage the front main seal on the crank key).
  5. Loosely tighten the four oil pan to timing cover bolts.
  6. Install the harmonic balancer before installing any other bolts, so as to ensure alignment of the crank seal on the balancer is properly centered.
  7. Install and torque to spec (or just torque to spec, in the case of the oil pan bolts) all the bolts that are unique to the timing cover (i.e. not also holding the water pump in position).
  8. Install the water pump.
Any comments/suggestions/criticisms on the above? Thanks a lot as always!
1982 Ski Nautique PCM351W RR II Velvet Drive 10-17-003 1:1 II PerfectPass Stargazer
Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light.
Back to Top
KENO View Drop Down
Grand Poobah
Grand Poobah


Joined: June-06-2004
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 11112 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-23-2021 at 6:37am
No harm in painting the area you want to paint behind the water pump.

The only thing in there is air or water leakage from the pump backing plate or the outlet ports where they meet the timing cover. That's probably why they weren't painted originally 

As far as RTV or gluing with something like Permatex 2 or something similar use whatever you feel more comfortable with.

I've been known to trim a gasket or 2 in that area to make it fit better. That gasket isn't really any fun at all Wink
Back to Top
Wilhelm Hertzog View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: June-14-2014
Location: Cape Town
Status: Offline
Points: 334 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wilhelm Hertzog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-31-2021 at 9:27am
Status update: everything seems to have gone pretty smoothly with all the installations, with no signs of leaks anywhere after some good time on the water. However, I still have the ticking noise, and the new water pump did not make much difference to operating temperatures. Using a screwdriver as stethoscope, I can't get to the bottom of the ticking noise. Which to me suggests that it is either belts or exhaust leaks. At this stage I'll probably just live with the ticking noise and slightly high engine temps.
1982 Ski Nautique PCM351W RR II Velvet Drive 10-17-003 1:1 II PerfectPass Stargazer
Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light.
Back to Top
td_in_nc View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: March-30-2012
Location: Clayton NC
Status: Offline
Points: 381 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote td_in_nc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December-31-2021 at 6:54pm
Did you put on a new alternator belt?
Back to Top
Wilhelm Hertzog View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: June-14-2014
Location: Cape Town
Status: Offline
Points: 334 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wilhelm Hertzog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-01-2022 at 3:20am
Originally posted by td_in_nc td_in_nc wrote:

Did you put on a new alternator belt?


No, haven't replaced any belts yet. I do have a spare set, guess I should try them.
1982 Ski Nautique PCM351W RR II Velvet Drive 10-17-003 1:1 II PerfectPass Stargazer
Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light.
Back to Top
td_in_nc View Drop Down
Senior Member
Senior Member


Joined: March-30-2012
Location: Clayton NC
Status: Offline
Points: 381 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote td_in_nc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-01-2022 at 7:41am
Went through the same thing sevyears ago and it was the belts
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page    <12
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

About CCF

Since 2003, CorrectCraftFan.com has been the foremost Correct Craft reference site, and simply provides the best used Correct Craft buying and selling experience anywhere.

Donate

This site is not affiliated with Correct Craft, Inc. Funding for the site comes from members like you. Click on the link below to make a donation.

Partners

Contact

Keith@CorrectCraftFan.com
Alison@CorrectCraftFan.com
www.CorrectCraftFan.com
Copyright 2024 | Bagley Productions, LLC