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Polishing Question

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Grand Poobah
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Polishing Question
    Posted: February-08-2023 at 12:01pm
My fiberglass isnt bad, but its not what I want.  Still fair luster, but inconsistent shine across the deck. Variation from earlier attempts to hand polish/wax.  

Back story: I've been stuck between a rock and a hard place.  My vinyl came down with "pinking" (bacteria, not mold/mildew) which if you are not familiar, is a mess.  No treating it, just replacing.  For the most part, it just shows up when boat is covered.  In a few days, in the hot NC sun, it makes a real mess, turning most of the vinyl purple.  Fortunately a day or 2 in the sun and it goes away.  Anyway, to minimize it, I leave the boat uncovered, which, again, in the hot NC sun has dulled the fiberglass finish ever so slightly.

Fast forward to today.  Most all vinyl has been replaced (seats, engine cover).  Now I want to bring finish back.  Yes, I've read a million posts here on it and watched a million youtube videos.  Comes down to one simple question.  Not sure if I need to  compound it or just polish and wax it.  I have (for the first time) an electric polisher to use for the job.  I know its hard to answer without seeing condition and I dont think photos would show up very well what I have.  But if possible, I'd be happy to hear your thoughts based on my attempt at a description.  I suppose the easy answer is try the polish only, first, and if that isnt doing the job, go back and compound then polish.  Thoughts?

Edit:  just swung by and took a pic, if that helps at all

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storm34 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote storm34 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-08-2023 at 2:14pm
Larry, I've had some success with a quick polish and other times it looks great for a while but doesn't hold up - really depends on the gel's condition.  Others can correct me but I don't see a huge downside starting with a rubbing compound and working your way up.  

What polisher do you have this time around? Variable speed?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-08-2023 at 2:34pm
Even a trained eye will have a hard time telling for sure exactly how aggressive one needs to be to restore gel fully. I’ll counter Chris’s advice and suggest you do the opposite. I always do a test spot (starting from least aggressive to most aggressive) to figure out exactly how far I need to go. Preventing extra work is a good thing. I do think it’s likely you’ll need to compound, though.

What material is your cover made of?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pjsmoreno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-08-2023 at 5:00pm

I agree with TRBenj, doing less work if possible. The gelcoat is very hard and forgiving when either sanding or buffing/polishing the surface. I would do a one foot by one foot area first. Try polishing first and if that doesn't work then rubbing compound. Keep in mind to put pressure down on the orbital buffer to see if that makes a difference and using the right pads. You will know what you are looking for if either of these works out. If not, then there will be some sanding needing done starting at say 1200 - 1500 then go backwards to 400 if needed. But I don’t think you need to go that low, just a direction per say. Personally, I prefer hand sanding due to the curves of the boat but some like the small orbital sander to do that part.

I just got done doing the entire port and starboard side on my boat and I have many hours on both hand sanding and buffing. Ready for decals to put on when it gets a lot warmer outside.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wayoutthere Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-08-2023 at 6:37pm
For some reason i can't post pictures. Good friend a pro glass guy told me to use a product called vibra cut from a company called fountain of youth.
I follow up with vitro from the same company or collinite 885 fleet wax.

http://www.power1one.com/Fountain_of_Youth-Home_of_Power_One/FOY_-_Vibra_Cut.html

Wet sanding buffing waxing are beyond my skill set and have to use hi quality materials to make up for the lack of ability.
Howeved i just wrapped up a seat project ( clear gelcoat over carbon and carbon-kevlar hybrid)
The gelcoat was applied last and wet sanded then buffed & waxed. Shines a mile deep.

It also completely brought back a deep shine on original white gelcoat on the 79 nautique project i finished 6-8 months ago. Swear by the stuff because it makes me look good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-08-2023 at 7:29pm
Larry.............I think you need to review the thread in the link below 

Lots of secret little known tips

Just remember...............Bring out the Hellmans and bring out the best (unless you live west of the Rockies) Wink

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-09-2023 at 1:13am
I have a Makita variable speed polisher, 8" with a nice wool polishing pad.  ( I tried the foam pads and went back to the Wool, personal choice)  I wash the pad between each type of compound used.  Well, wash is an exaggeration, I spray it out well with a hose spray nozzle and then spin it to remove the excess water.   I have been using a 3M product, they sell a kit with the Step 1 course, Step 2 Medium grit, and Step 3 Fine grit compound.   (available on Amazon) I spin at a lower speed for all 3 finishes.   I am not a pro, and far away from being any kind of finish expert but it allows me to get great results.   I wish I had Tim's advice when I started, it makes total sense to figure out how much material you need to remove on a small area before putting in all the work on a larger area.   When you start the first step takes away any shine you have and you won't know if you have the proper amount removed till you try and polish that spot.   It is a learning process with the constant fear that if you remove too much you might take off your Gel Coat Color.   I did that once polishing my old Malibu Skier taking out a scratch.  Nautique uses thicker Gel than Malibu but always be careful.  The 3M kit gives you a full Quart of each compound and other than shaking it before each use has lasted me years.   I think it is around $150 for the 3 but worked for me on a few projects now.  Even polished the headlights on a couple cars to remove glaze and it worked the same.
If you use this system don't be a dummy like me and put a bunch of compound on the pad and start spinning.   I wasted a lot of material learning to put spots of compound in areas and working towards them as you polish an area.  If your material sprays all around and on you rather than on your job you did it wrong, with the proper amount it polishes well with little spray off the pad making messes.   Admitting my error in hopes it saves you material and mess.   Mark   

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pjsmoreno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-09-2023 at 9:28am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-09-2023 at 9:45am
Ken,  One step ahead of you.  Had already read that thread along with several others that were linked.  Sounded like a good approach so I stopped at the warehouse supply on my way home and am good to go.  Going for the really deep shine.



Chris, yup, variable speed.

Tim: Covermate Sharkskin.   Dont think cover was the problem  Had one of these forever on the Tique and always happy with it.  Just perfect storm of conditions, I guess.  I read the southeast is prone to the pinking.  My fear is that is somehow spreads to the new vinyl.  New rear seat and observer seat last year and no issues.  New engine cover and helm seat going in now, so hopefully my luck continues.  Super sensitive/fussy about vinyl care now.  Never really gave it a second thought with the Supra.  12 years and seats looked as good as th day I bought it.  Seems lots of folks have issues with CC upholstery and full replacements, but maybe that is not an accurate generalization. 

Mark, good tip on volume and consistent with others that I read, including the bottle of polish that said use 4 dime sized drops.  Another guy in a video used more than that, but spread it around/sort of rubbed it in first so it wouldnt splatter out.

Nice day in NC today, 70ish, so I think I may drag the boat out and start on spring projects  bilge pump issue from last fall, new impeller, oil/filter, platform oil, install dog house and seat, all the usual stuff, and giving the polishing a shot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-09-2023 at 12:59pm
It seems like C&S should be able to tell you if their vinyl has pinking issues , since they've been around for a number of years now.

I think that the issue started with the removal of whatever small amount of arsenic was in vinyl upholstery material quite a while back

The all knowing internet says there are materials out there that this won't happen too, maybe what C&S uses is one of them.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-12-2023 at 6:03pm
I would recommend a breathable cover if you ever put it away wet (ie, use a ski boat as a ski boat). I think the sharkskin is a poly based cover, not sure if it would be considered breathable like sunbrella. I am pretty sure I had one once, was not a big fan.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JayG80 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-30-2023 at 9:31am
I think adding a couple vents to the cover and running 2 dehumidifiers set on a timer will help upholstery issue.


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