Bilge Pump Replacement? |
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75 Tique
Grand Poobah Joined: August-12-2004 Location: Seven Lakes, NC Status: Offline Points: 6130 |
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Posted: February-09-2023 at 1:01pm |
My bilge pump died last fall. There are no markings on it so I have no idea what flow rate it is. I know, just buy a big honkin' pump but that comes at a cost. Any idea what a stock or standard GPH might have been? Dont want to break the bank but dont want to wait two days to get the boat pumped out.
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“So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11162 |
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I'd figure 500 GPH is plenty, 800 GPH for some overkill.
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MourningWood
Gold Member Joined: June-13-2014 Location: NorCal Status: Offline Points: 918 |
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Might be a good time to wire in an automatic float switch (if none present). Not hard to wire. I mounted a pump and switch to an aluminum plate that rests securely on the floor (wooden Dunphy). No holes to drill. Works great, allows overnights in-water.
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1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun"
'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!" |
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MourningWood
Gold Member Joined: June-13-2014 Location: NorCal Status: Offline Points: 918 |
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or, an easier option....
https://www.amazon.com/SeaSense-Fully-Automatic-Bilge-Pump/dp/B001ALYFNQ
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1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun"
'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!" |
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75 Tique
Grand Poobah Joined: August-12-2004 Location: Seven Lakes, NC Status: Offline Points: 6130 |
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All set with the auto switch. Boat came with a water witch sensor (vs float) separate from the pump. That died on my a couple years ago. Since pump was fine, I didnt buy an automatic pump, and I didnt trust the water witch, so I picked up a basic float switch. That is still fine, so I am just replacing the pump with one I had laying around. What a pain. I can see the designers at CC sitting around the table discussing this. It went something like this. So, we're building a boat that will last about 50 years. Lets put in a $30 pump that is bound to die after about 10 years, and lets put it in before the engine. Then, lets put the engine in over top of it so it is absolutely impossible to get to. And also, lets use this terrible thin, fragile brittle plastic tubing for the pipe outlet. That way, when its time to replace the pump (which is impossible) the tubing will break every 10 seconds in about 10 places while they try to get it hooked back up to the new pump. Yup, great design. All that being said, the pump you linked looks like a good deal for an 850 gph automatic pump.
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_____________
“So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11162 |
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I think a couple or few pictures are in order
Or do you have to pretty up the bilge first? Almost forgot to ask...............so how was your afternoon?
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63 Skier
Grand Poobah Joined: October-06-2006 Location: Concord, NH Status: Offline Points: 4277 |
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I'm probably in the minority on this one, but .... I like the OEM type bilge pumps that run for a second every 2 minutes. Yes, they use some power, but as I mentioned in another thread I've gone at least 10 days between starts with the boat at the dock and not enough battery drain to make starting an issue. What I like is that with any float switch bilge pump I've used, you need a bit of water to raise the float, which then brings the level down. On the pumps that just run for a second sensing a load from water pumping, the water level stays lower, never has to rise to lift a float. So for skiing they (I have 2 in the Sport) seem to keep the water level way down.
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