raw water pump rebuild

Who knows the best way to remove the shaft from the raw water pump? I am trying to replace the bearings and seals and have never had one apart before. Also I am looking for a high output coil to go with my prestolite electronic conversion kit. Any help is appreciated.

Then take the impellor out.
Pull the seal kit out, pay close attention to the order of the pieces. Then pull the shaft out and the bearing will fall out, but it is a precision fit. Put a new bearing back in and snap ring, shaft and new seal kit. The part shown goes on after the ceramic part. The washer on the spring bumps against the impellor.

The bearing is the same size as a throw out bearing in an auto clutch, alot cheaper than the marine bearing. My pump uses sherwood seal kit #10545

This is the first piece to the seal kit, a ceramic part with rubber on the back side. Make sure the rubber from the old one isn't stuck in the pump.

I tried to post a bunch of pics at one time but it didn't work.

One other thing to keep in mind is get a cannister style coil otherwise you will have to fab a new bracket to mount it.

Thanks guys. The pictures are a big help. I hope to get started on it tomorrow.
79, thanks for the info. I am not using any resistor now and the coil is the prestolite unit. I just need(want) more voltage. I guess thats the old gearhead coming out in me. I just really needed a couple of suggestions on brands. Thanks again. By the way,is that your white with blue stripes in the reunion pics?

Consider since one cant get more energy out of the coil then it can draw from the pointless igniter, beware pulling more than rated current through the igniter will reduce its life.

If you want really strong spark add a
MSD6m firing and MSD blaster 3 coil (its longer snout prevents any arcing to the primary)

Its high input impedance dramatically reduces current through the igniter, eliminating overheating and increasing its life, while providing a very hot spark that can jump over a 2" gap.

I've had it start easily and get me home when I had a bowl-float failure dumping fuel down its throat.

GottaSki wrote: Consider since one cant get more energy out of the coil then it can draw from the pointless igniter. If you want really strong spark add a MSD6m firing and MSD blaster 3 coil (its longer snout prevents any arcing to the primary)

it's not the amount of voltage going to the coil that makes the big spark, it can to a certain degree, but what is more important is the ratio of turns from the primary winding to the secondary winding that makes a difference on the coils output to the plugs.

As far as the longer snout goes it's realy a waiste and doesn't do much, it only makes it harder for the spark to jump to the connections on top of the coil and if they are left uncovered or the boots are cracked it helps, but if the boots are in good shape and the terminals are covered it makes no difference. In other words it helps an external arc jump, but most will short internally and jump from the primary winding to the secondary winding due to insulation failure caused be thermo cycling or a flaw created during the manufacturing process.bad solder joint, air pocket in the potting, scuffed wire insulation, things like that. Besides most guys are going to have trouble fabing a bracket to mount the 6M box and they don't work that great with conversion kits to start with.

Eric, did you mean G21 pump? If so, I may be interested. The shaft on mine does not want to come out of the bearing so I may be in the market.

If you don't have a cam and higher compression motor then a CD ignition/6M spark box is a waiste of money because it's really not going to make a difference might see a slight increase in fuel ecconomy but that's about it.

79, I agree. Thats why I am waiting for the rebuild and even then it depends on the kind of rebuild it is. I haven't decided yet. The engine is strong now and just needs some tweaking with the ignition and carb.
Eric, I will call you monday. Thanks

That is the one I need. I'll call you monday. What is a good time and I'm a$$uming the number from your website. My name is Steve by the way

steve, its definitly a G-21 it also has the pulley on it, it has a bout 200 hours on it but it looks damn good, you may have to throw a new imeller in it seeing that its been sitting around for a year or so, I would throw it in a bucket of water for a couple hours to get some water up to the carbon seal if it has one