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Need Help With No Spark Issue

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spiralhelix View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote spiralhelix Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2018 at 5:18pm
I didn't see a new thread yet, so I'll just post this here just in case. I came up with a little spreadsheet to help me keep track of my values and what I was testing. My normal values may be off for certain parts or may be different than what you have or it may need some tweaking, but it might help get you going. I, unfortunately, had to go through the process myself and even though my ballast resistor did in fact test to 1.5 ohms, didn't get a spark with a known good coil and for the $5 for a new resistor gave it a go as everything else was coming up as normal up to that point. The new resistor was the answer for me.

-Spiral
'89 Sport Nautique
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tryathlete View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2018 at 9:13pm
For those of you with Pertronix, be sure not to leave your ignition switch on as it will fry the module. SkiDim and I found this out along the way with my Supra a few years back.
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KENO View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2018 at 10:29pm
Originally posted by tryathlete tryathlete wrote:

For those of you with Pertronix, be sure not to leave your ignition switch on as it will fry the module. SkiDim and I found this out along the way with my Supra a few years back.


You only get that burn up the module feature on the Ignitor (black module)

In the Ignitor 2 with the red module you can leave the key on and it won't burnup thanks to some electronic magic in the module It was one of the improvements in the Ignitor 2
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2018 at 10:56pm
Good to know that was fixed! What a glaring omission that was!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2018 at 11:04pm
Just like a set of points, if you have the key on and the points are closed, you'll burn up a set of points and/or ignition coil in a short time..

The same thing happens with the "electronic switch" in the Ignitor

It wasn't necessarily fixed, you can still buy the Ignitor or you can pay more for the Ignitor 2
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2018 at 11:29pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Just like a set of points, if you have the key on and the points are closed, you'll burn up a set of points and/or ignition coil in a short time..

The same thing happens with the "electronic switch" in the Ignitor

It wasn't necessarily fixed, you can still buy the Ignitor or you can pay more for the Ignitor 2


Dang I was gonna write that and ya beat me to it. My tree trimmer fried his points by leaving the switch on to his chipper. I ran out and got a set and replaced them. Two years later he still on that quick fix.
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JackBShelby View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JackBShelby Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-01-2018 at 11:43pm
1979 Correct Craft Mustang. No power going to the coil. Power is at the ignition switch but nothing at the coil when you switch on the ignition switch. Coil must get power from somewhere else because of no direct wire from key switch to the coil. Was ok when winterized but will not start now. Cranks over fine but no spark. Thanks for your help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-02-2018 at 1:05am
Originally posted by JackBShelby JackBShelby wrote:

1979 Correct Craft Mustang. No power going to the coil. Power is at the ignition switch but nothing at the coil when you switch on the ignition switch. Coil must get power from somewhere else because of no direct wire from key switch to the coil. Was ok when winterized but will not start now. Cranks over fine but no spark. Thanks for your help.


Jack you need one of these diagrams to find your problem on a 1979 engine assuming it's a 302 Pleasurecraft with points or maybe an electronic conversion that still keeps the ballast resistor in the circuit.



You do have a direct wire to the coil from the key and it passes through the ballast resistor.On the diagram follow the purple wire from the ignition switch to the coil and you'll see the resistor

If the resistor is dead (open circuit) you won't have any coil power like Spiralhelix mentioned earlier. You can check voltage into the resistor and voltage out of the resistor. .

The resistor is on the back of the engine

Or you can check it's resistance, if it's infinite the resistor is broken If it's about 1.2 or so ohms it's good and not your problem

A good replacement part number would be Echlin ICR23 at a NAPA store or it will cross reference to a variety of other brand resistors.

It should look pretty much like this and be around 5 dollars maybe a little more



You could also temporarily put in a jumper from one terminal to the other and see if you have spark, but if you run it that way it'll eat up your points fairly quickly.

If the resistor is good, it could also be that your ignition switch itself is bad or you have a broken or heavily corroded wire between the key and the resistor.but I'd try the resistor check first.
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