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1977 Mustang

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Danny View Drop Down
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    Posted: January-03-2004 at 12:31am
I have the opportunity to trade a gentleman a running 17' center console 40hp for a 77 Mustang that is not running. The mustang looks as though is has a new gel coat as well as restored vinyl and carpet. The problem is with the engine as the story goes the original 302 4V threw a rod a couple of years ago and had to be repalced. The current engine has new fuel pump, distributor and alternater. It has an automotive holley carb on it which I think is the cause of the problem. My question is what if it is not a marine engine, can it still be a functional, DEPENDABLE boat???????
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tryan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-03-2004 at 2:06am
functional and dependable ,yes. safe, no. you need to have at the minimum a marine alt, starter, dizzy, fuel pump, blower and carb for fume protection. you can find most of the stuff pretty cheap used and new marine holley carbs are pretty abundant on ebay.


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Danny View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Danny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-03-2004 at 5:22pm
After further investigation I have found that it is a marine 302. Which leads me to my next question. Since the installation of the new motor the boat ran for a summer and then the next summer it would not start. Would the automotive carb work ok for a while and then just quit working? I guess what i am trying to figure out is what will it take to get the boat running? THe fuel pump and distributor are new. The motor seems to turn over pretty well then again I just hit the ignition to see if the battery was good. What would a boat in this condition be worth??? Thanks for the help so far.
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tryan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-03-2004 at 7:25pm
it sounds like it is good shape, but i would not even guess at a price. congrats that is still a marine motor. thats good.

i don't want to use all keiths hard drive space, but check for fuel and spark.

toadys fuel isn't the greatest quality. over the winter, the gas will evaporate from the bowl and clog it up. it is possible for the float to get hung and not allow fuel into the carb or flood the whole boat. marine carbs have a 'puke' tube that will flood and kill the motor if the float gets hung in the open position.

see if you have a spark with a timing light or the old screwdriver stuck in the spark plug wire trick. if she sparks, throw a half a shot glass of fuel down the carb and turn the key.

if she does not spark, check the points. they should have about a credit card width openning at the top of the lobe. make sure the inside of the cap is dry and corrosion free.

if the points look okay, check the ballast resistor. the ballast resistor is mounted on the bell housing. (it is a white 1/2" x 1/2" x 3" rectangular box.) you should have 12 or so volts to ground on one side with the key on and 7 to 9 volts on the other. if you have nothing, check the main wiring plug in the same proximity for green fuzz or it could be the key switch. sometimes when the starter is engaged there is not enough voltage to get ignition, but we can get to that later.   
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Danny View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Danny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-03-2004 at 8:09pm
Hey thanks
Went back to look at the boat again and find the piece of paper that I had written some casting numbers on. The seller tells me it was a marine engine, and also the freeze plugs are bronze which I understand is a good sign. Where in the world is the float??? Can I research the casting # for the manifold and engine Engine# oije-0426-ar manifold # is d 028001.

I noticed on more little thing that may be a problem. A freeze plug, the one that i noticed was bronze, is not in all the way and looks as though some one has put some silicon around it. Why?? Could You not just hit it back in? Why is it out? Is it possible tha tthe engine was not winterized the winter before it would not crank and partially froze up? Would only one freeze plug come out?

This float thing I assume is in the carb somewhere. The mechanic said that since it was an automotive carb that it was flooding the secondary chambers, hence flooding the engine. The seller swears it ran fine until that summer. Which may very well prove your theory.

Thanks for the great info. The seller has a $300 at the mechanic so he want to trade boats and the cash. He said he may throw in some skis and ropes etc..
Thanks again Tryan
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tryan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-03-2004 at 9:03pm
a brass freeze plug set is less than 10 bucks, but don't consumate the deal until you are sure the motor is in decent shape.

if the the engine has been subject to freezing temperature with plain water in the block or manifolds, it could have a crack somewhere. small cracks may not reveal themselves until the engine is up to operating temperature.

tell the guy you want to look at the carb and get it running before you finalize the deal. if the engine is flooded, you should smell fuel at the exhaust pipes. hold it wide open while you turn it over for ten seconds and smell the exhaust. a little tap with a handle of a screwdriver might dislodge the float in the carb if it is hung. if you don't smell fuel, try the shot glass of fuel.

find a letter and a number on the castings. c is for the 60's ie C8 would be 1968. D2 would be 1972 ect. none of the casting marks will tell you if it is a marine motor as far as i know.

see if the prop has a 'R' or an 'L'.

you willl need a new impeller for the raw water pump before you hit the water or run the boat for any extended period. you will need the # and make off the pump. sherwood or jabsco.

freeze plugs are just holes in the block to remove the sand after the casting process. that is a misnomer. they do sell a temporary rubber plug at most auto parts stores.

the reference section here will get you going. download it and print it out.







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Danny View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Danny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-03-2004 at 9:46pm
Funny you mention the impeller for the pump because the bracket that the pump screws into is cracked and may not be able to hold the proper tension. Just wondering why do you know that the impeller be replaced. What about a filter for this pump. Where does the water get picked up. This link shows the bracket that is broken.
http://aquaskier.com/articles/impeller_replacement.htm
I am pretty good at welding and should be able to fabricate another or fix this one.
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Danny View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Danny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-03-2004 at 9:50pm
Through a little internet research I think i have answered my question. The impeller should be replaced because it deteriorates over time. Is this correct?
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tryan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-03-2004 at 10:21pm
if you turn the motor over without water to lubricate the vanes, they are toast in short order.

a strainer is cheap insurance. it goes between the hull fitting by the tranny and the tranny oil cooler.

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Danny View Drop Down
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Thanks for your help. I believe that is all for now. I will keep you updated on the status of the trade/purchase.
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