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"New" Trailer and maint. ?? |
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keegan99usa 
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Joined: June-25-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 124 |
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 Topic: "New" Trailer and maint. ??Posted: July-31-2007 at 6:54pm |
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Hey all.
Got a picture of the rebuilt trailer. Was off a 1988 Malibu. Needed a new axle for width so I got one with electric brakes. Added some new bunks and a nice "oops I went tooo fast loading the trailer" bunk set in the front. All there is left is to add the new wiring and try her out. Then i will have to wetsand and buff the boat. After wetsanding, what should I use for an "extracut" polish? Then before I put on the new decals(on the way), what should I do to prep the hull? I assume then i can just keep waxing every couple weeks huh? Thanks for the help. Dan 
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TRBenj
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Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21186 |
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Posted: July-31-2007 at 8:07pm |
3M super duty compound will remove scratches left by 1000 grit paper. I used that, then a 3M midgrade compound, followed by Finesse-It II polish. Prior to applying decals, I wipe down the gel with acetone. This removes any wax that would prevent them from sticking. |
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keegan99usa
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Posted: August-01-2007 at 10:29am |
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My plan was 1500 grit to start with on a Hutchins wetsand orbital sander. Then switch to 3000 grit and then go the the 3M line? Can I go straight to the finesse-it II polish?
Thanks Dan |
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keegan99usa
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Posted: August-01-2007 at 11:17am |
Trying to resize pic. |
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TRBenj
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Posted: August-01-2007 at 11:59am |
I wouldnt bother sanding any finer than 1000 grit. Using compound on a wheel is much faster and less tiring. Im not sure what you are trying to do (restore color or shine), but you will find that you need to be pretty aggressive with gelcoat to make any headway. Its much harder (and thicker) than automotive paint. |
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keegan99usa
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Posted: August-01-2007 at 2:30pm |
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I'm trying to restore color and shine. It looks pretty faded especially where the stickers have been taken off and I can see what it should look like. So, you would not bother with 3000 grit even with the orbital sander? How fast should I spin the compound with my buffer and what is the recommended bonnet material?
Thanks again. Dan |
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TRBenj
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Posted: August-01-2007 at 3:13pm |
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I wouldnt bother with 3000 or 1500 grit. Start with 1000 and work down to coarser grits until you start seeing results- then work back up to 1000 and break out the buffer. To get my deck back to its original color (it had yellowed) I had to go down to 320 grit.
For the compounds, I used various wool cutting pads. For the polish, I used a wool blend polishing pad. I dont remember the RPM's, but they were listed on the bottle of each product. |
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keegan99usa
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Posted: August-01-2007 at 3:17pm |
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I had some 1000 grit and used that by hand with water and it did not take long at all to get back the color. If I sanded for 20 seconds in a 1 sq ft area that was long. That's why I had figured to go with a finere grit with the wet sander. I will pick up some "stuff" and give it a whirl.
Dan |
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TRBenj
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Posted: August-02-2007 at 9:21pm |
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In that case, you may be able to get by without wetsanding at all (lucky you!). Get yourself a good wool cutting pad and the most aggressive compound you can find (like 3M Super Duty) and go to town. If it doesnt work, go back to the 1000 grit.
Your color must not be in bad shape at all. This is the spot that inspired me to wetsand in the first place: 
after: 
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keegan99usa
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Posted: August-06-2007 at 12:02pm |
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One more question. Applying the new decals. Do you spray with water and a drop of dish soap before applying, and add the decals to the still wet hull? I figured I could move the decal around a little bit that way before it grabbed. Then i would wait a half hour or so before i peeled the paper off the decal.
This sound reasonable? Dan |
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: August-06-2007 at 1:26pm |
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Dan, Hopefully the large graphics will come on the 3M Scotchcal transfer system or it's equal. If it does, the pre positioning is easy and they will go on the hull where you want them!
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TRBenj
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Posted: August-06-2007 at 2:28pm |
Yes, thats exactly how I did my transom graphics and registration decals. |
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keegan99usa
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Posted: August-06-2007 at 7:06pm |
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Ok, so.............heat gun to remove the old decals? I have one, it has 3 temps. What is the ideal temp, or am I getting a bit anal? Just so hesitant to start scratching the heck out of the gelcoat. If I really hit it hard, can I do this in a weekend?
Dan |
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TRBenj
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Posted: August-06-2007 at 7:22pm |
Start with the lowest setting and work towards the hottest until you see results. I dont have a heat gun, so Ive had to use a hairdryer. Avoid using razor blades or anything that would harm the gel, if at all possible. If youre just tackling the yellow stripe and it doesnt require wetsanding, Id say it can be done in a weekend. Otherwise, that may be a little optimistic. It took me almost 40 hours to bring the color back on my deck- but there was a lot of sanding and buffing involved. |
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keegan99usa
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Posted: August-07-2007 at 11:06am |
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Well, I finally got out and put the boat on the "new" trailer. I must say that it turned out pretty decent. I'm happy with the color, I just need to get the brakes hooked up and it is completely finished. I put a new axle under the old frame and added new bunks, guides, front"bumper", fresh paint and graphics. I have a spare, but it's a white spoke rim. Anyone have a location to buy a black Nautique spare tire cover?
Thanks Dan Oh, and in the picture is my proud daughter Faith. 
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keegan99usa wrote: