wht do you use for oil (carb GT40)

I guess I am specifically looking for my boat whick is a 93 gt40 carb setup. I know it says on the cover but I dont think a 30 is good all around for startup and the lower RPMs I constantly run. I used to run a 10-30 in my 85 so i am wondering what other people run in their boats with a sinilar motor :)

I just read that whole thing and found myself more confused than ever all I got out of it is that I want zinc and off road oil

You can run what ever oil you want as long as you add some STP oil treatment. It has the ZDDP (Zinc) that we want to have for better lubrication.

Brad

joed wrote: This post has probably more info than you want to know on the subject of oil in our engines. Happy reading. OIL Hope that helps. Joe

in light of this post, I did a decent amount of research and I will see what ends up being the best for the boat. I dont want excessive oil pressure so i will see what I get out of what I bought now. I was told by the local dealer (son watersports) to use a 15-40 oil. I also asked about the ZDDP and zinc for it and he didnt know what to tell me excpet to research it and see what I can find. I went one better and tried to find one with the ZDDP in it or use a good base and use the STP oil additive(with ZDDP in it) I found that There is a castrol product in a 1 gal jug that is called "Castrol Tection Extra" that is a 15-40 weight oil that in the ingrediants says that it contains the ZDDP in the oil which was a change from what I found with the Shell Rotella T or other heavy duty oils for deisels (at auto zone mind you) They did have the Valvoline VR1 raging oil with the ZDDP in it but only had it in a 50, 60 and a 20-50 which I will try a 15-40 first to see how my oil pressure reacts to it (I dont know what is in there now from the previous owner) This castrol that I found was about $11 for the gallon.

I figure this is a start to see how oil pressure reacts because you only really need 10-12 PSI of oil pressure for every 1000 rpm on a 351W motor for adequate lubrication.

So anyone looking for an oil you dont need to use a $3 additive to, castrol tection extra is what you are looking for    I hope this helps out some people who were looking for the same thing as me with the non roller cam prediciment.

Like I said, I dont know what is in there now, and I am not to excited about running a high pressure, so I decided I would try a lower number to see how it works out vs whatever might be in there. If I am ok with pressure, I will leave it, if not, I may try the additive in a 10w40.

What pressure cold/hot/idle/running do you see , Tim

I have been using straight 40wt. This seems heavy to me, especially when it's still cool outside. but I have been told that these engines require a "straight weight" and 40wt. is recommended. now I'm reconsidering. I'm considering using a 15W-40 heavy duty racing or off road oil.

I was even considering ordering one of these Oil Analysis Reports from Blackstone Laboratories


Found this while researching oil for my new truck:
Bobistheoilguy.com

The guys on the BITOG forum really take their lubrication seriously. Maybe even a little too seriously.

Zinc is good for prostate health. I highly recommend it. The results of zinc will surprise you. I did not know you could get it in motor oil too. I'll check it out.

My PCM Manual (89) says 10W30 is good up to 90 deg. Also says that Zinc additive is only needed for 460s & 454s. So is the Rotella 40W40 needed only in these big blocks & GT40?

We don't do WOT much & it rarely gets over 90F here in corn country.

I just put in Ford certified 10W30 into my 351W & wonder it I treated her right.

Chris

I have read most threads related to oil. I thought the consensus was that either Rottella 40W40 or Valvoline Racing 20W50 is fine. Did I got that right? I think I would go with the Valvoline but I noticed that they have a regular and VR1. I think the VR1 is synthetic. IMO it may not be worth the extra money for the amount of use I will give the boat compared to a car. I do know synthetic are better for cold start protection, I use them on all my cars. What you guys think? Is it worth the money?

Ahhh!! You are right. The VR1 is not synthetic. It seems that it has better zinc and protection. I guess that would be my choice. Thanks for correcting me.

Doc,
    I do appreciate that you are offering your help and will take that offer to be able to talk to you. I need to compose a list of question I have in mind for you. You are quite a legend on this website among others. I received the mail and I don't know why you got that e-mail back. I will check it again. My e-mail is alizardi@mail.smu.edu . I use my school e-mail because I can access it from work and home. More convinient.
Thanks, Anthony

Guys: 6 boats...regular oil changes (only thing I know how to do)...used in Ohio, Tennessee and Florida...Valvoline 20W50...how many hours do I have on all my boats...no way to even guess but I ain't never had a failure (knock on wood)...change it every 50 hours and hopefully you'll be good to go.

john

boat dr wrote: JBEAR< the motors are the same , the oils and their additives have changed. Keep up with the game or suffer the engine related failures.........

Fixed it for you, Doc. Valvoline is good oil, JBear- but according to their tech that I spoke to, the only oil that they sell now that contains the zinc that us Ford guys need is the Valvoline Racing. VR1 is the cheapest of the bunch, and still has the detergents that allow for normal oil change intervals.