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Draining "Cold" Oil

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east tx skier View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote east tx skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Draining "Cold" Oil
    Posted: January-06-2008 at 11:29pm
So I picked up some Valvoline VR1 today and plan to use the Rotella for something else. The boat is tucked away for the winter, but I got to thinking I could save some time in the spring if I changed the oil now. I would like to avoid pulling the boat out and running it to heat up the oil possible though I realize that is the preferred method.

We've had mid 70s in Texas the last two days. If I just drop the drain hose through the bilge drain uncap on the valve cover and uncap the hose, will it eventually drain or am I wasting my time (if it takes a week, that's fine).

Alternatively, I've got a vacuum pump. Would that be a better alternative. Or is it absolutely necessary that the oil be warm to get it all out.

I'm sure warming the engine up to change the oil has been discussed before, but I didn't see this specific question mentioned.

Thanks in advance.
1998 Ski Nautique (Red & Silver Cloud); GT-40; Perfect Pass Stargazer; Acme 422.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-07-2008 at 12:30am
East Tx - I too am going to drop my oil 1st thing after getting the boat from storage (gotta have Zddp!).

I was thinking it would be better to 1st start the engine & get some oil on what probably are dry bearings & tappets.

Otherwise, when I start her up, I got to fill up a filter while the bearings are running bone dry.

Engine experts - is this a real concern or do I have too much daydreaming time this winter?

Chris
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east tx skier View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote east tx skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-07-2008 at 1:18am
Yeah, at this point, my concern is also initial startup as well as how much I'll get out when it's cold. Isn't there going to be some oil left in the filter even if I drain.

At this point, the drain hose wasn't even at a trickle. I've got the pump hooked up and am at about 1.5 qts after 45 minutes. Slow, but it's progress.

Since I only ran it for a few minutes after changing the oil at winterization, I figured I didn't need to change the filter.

I appreciate any guidance.
1998 Ski Nautique (Red & Silver Cloud); GT-40; Perfect Pass Stargazer; Acme 422.



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Gary S View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-07-2008 at 1:42am
Well I'm no expert but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express
My Holman Moody owners manual says that when taking the boat out of storage,pull the valve covers and oil the moving parts of the valve train.I would think if you let the oil run down the push rods that would lube the cam also? Or the lifters blocking the return?I always spin the motor the 1st time of the year anyway with the plugs out to get pressure up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-07-2008 at 10:33am
Gary - I want to change the plugs anyway, so cranking it with plugs out would be an easy way to avoid calamity.

Thanks for the tip.

Chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-07-2008 at 11:52am
here is the theory on this, doesnt your woman work better once she's warmed up..its the balance of life,
really, they want you to run the engine and get it hot to suspend all of the acids and contaminations, the molecules change once warm what they do i dont know but its probably a good idea to get it to op temp. and then change the oil
"the things you own will start to own you"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote east tx skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-07-2008 at 1:17pm
At this point, for me, it may be a null issue (I know I jumped the gun a bit, but this warm spell got me a bit excited), but as far as contaminants, acids, and the like, while it's a ten year old motor (so not clean as a whistle), can I take any comfort in the fact that I am removing "new" oil, that is, the Rotella I'm removing was changed at winterization just over a month ago. So it hasn't been run with the oil I'm removing, but for the few minutes I ran it after I changed it. I'm switching to the VR1 for the ZDDP.

This morning, I checked the pump and I've gotten just about everything out that I put in when I changed it (roughly 4.25 qts). I think I can get a little more out, and I assume there's still some of the Rotella in the filter. I wasn't planning to change this virtually new filter, but could certainly be persuaded if there's any downside to it.

Thanks for the comments so far. Any further insight would be much appreciated.
1998 Ski Nautique (Red & Silver Cloud); GT-40; Perfect Pass Stargazer; Acme 422.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-07-2008 at 2:35pm
Keep the filter
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote east tx skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-07-2008 at 2:54pm
Thanks, Joe. By the way, just watching that hole shot video linked in your signature made my arms hurt. Very nice!
1998 Ski Nautique (Red & Silver Cloud); GT-40; Perfect Pass Stargazer; Acme 422.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LaurelLakeSkier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-09-2008 at 12:31am
Hi Doug.....
If you didn't run the engine after the oil change, you still have an empty filter and I see no reason to change it. If the engine has been run, your oil filter will have filled with oil shortly after you started the engine. If that is the case and you are going through the trouble of changing your nearly new oil for the peace of mind in having the ZDDP, spring for the extra $5 and replace with a new filter as well. You will be able to sleep nights from now 'till ski season starts knowing you did it right.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote east tx skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-09-2008 at 3:23am
Laurel Lake Skier, thanks for the reply. I actually got it finished up last night. I ended up taking the filter off and dumping the oil out and refilling it with the VR1. I relubed the gasket and put it back on.
1998 Ski Nautique (Red & Silver Cloud); GT-40; Perfect Pass Stargazer; Acme 422.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote east tx skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-09-2008 at 3:32am
LLS, I take that back. After reading your post again, I started to wonder if that gasket had gone on correctly. I just pulled the filter and my suspicion was right on. The gasket was loose and had been torn. Thanks for triggering that worry in me that caused me to check at 11:30 pm on a Wednesday. It's definitely January. I'm glad Motorcraft filters are fairly inexpensive. Also glad I've got 400 ml of VR1 left over.

Thanks again.
1998 Ski Nautique (Red & Silver Cloud); GT-40; Perfect Pass Stargazer; Acme 422.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote advsouthwind Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: January-25-2008 at 9:31pm
If you want to get oil aroung the engine just pull the coil wire and crank the motor over a few revolutions. The oil pump will distribute oil to all the critical areas and then reconnect the coil wire. You can also do this in the spring if you want to make sure there is oil all around the engine internally before starting it for the first time in the spring.
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