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emccallum View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote emccallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2008 at 6:06pm
I loosen the belts and remove the impeller, during winter. Always fill the tank after adding and running some Stabil thru the system.
Just make sure you mark the rotation and mounting of the raw water pump...some models can be mounted in reverse causing the pump to run backwards. When you put the impeller back in spray it with some wd40 or lube it so it isnt so dry as it primes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2008 at 9:25pm
Originally posted by emccallum emccallum wrote:

When you put the impeller back in spray it with some wd40 or lube it so it isnt so dry as it primes.


Bad idea to put any petroleum product on the rubber impeller. Even though the new ones are a urethane, you do not want to take the chance of attacking the rubber. Don't do it. I have never put anything in a RWP in 41 years of winterizing marine engines. If you antifreeze it will lube the pump.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-29-2008 at 1:37am
I put a little dish soap on the new impeller when I installed it this spring.
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote emccallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-29-2008 at 12:54pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by emccallum emccallum wrote:

When you put the impeller back in spray it with some wd40 or lube it so it isnt so dry as it primes.


Bad idea to put any petroleum product on the rubber impeller. Even though the new ones are a urethane, you do not want to take the chance of attacking the rubber. Don't do it. I have never put anything in a RWP in 41 years of winterizing marine engines. If you antifreeze it will lube the pump.


According to WD40 it is ok to use on rubber. I see no problem with spraying it on to ease the installation, then having it flushed with thousands of gallons of water for the next 4 months. I would not use wd40 as a "protectant" over the winter, just a bit to help install it. I have only been using it for 25 years, so I may change my mind in the next ten or fifteen.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote winniskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-28-2008 at 12:35pm
When I reinstalled the engine and water pump drain plugs this past summer, it seemed that there was some gunk in the threads, making wonder whether it was thread dope. I wiped it off and there was no leakage this summer. Should any kind of thread dope be used or was I just seeing the normal accumulation of junk in the threads?
Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-28-2008 at 1:22pm
the threads do not enter any water cavity so there is no need for thread sealer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tapenick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-12-2009 at 4:21pm
A buddy (maintenance nazi) says to inspect the riser gaskets every 2-4 years.   Every year if ran in saltwater. Thoughts?

Tom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote homebuiltburner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2009 at 11:47pm
I am the new guy on the block. We bought our 66 mustang last summer and the guy I bought it from gave is a very good list on how to launch and care for the boat, or so I thought. After winterizing it and storing it I now have alot of new questions. I hope this is the appropriate place to ask them. When I asked about the trans he told me " you don't want to go there it's fine the way it is, you don't need to service it" I'm a full time mechanic and thought that didn't sound correct. Your thoughts and how??? Also I am looking for answers as far as engine size and wiring diagrams?? appears to be hull #m1744?? and engine seriel#GT21_526251p does this look correct and what does it mean I have, any help is great. I can't wait to get back on the lake, as we got a late start last year due to all the flooding in our area only days after buying the boat.
Thank you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2009 at 10:08am
Tom,
Welcome to the site and happy boating.

The M1744 is simply a serial nuber CC put on it. It's not like a HID # with any codes in it. The HIN's weren't used until 71/72. If you contact CC they may be able to tell some details off the build sheet. Stuff like original color, engine, etc.

The engine # however is coded. It will tell rotation, raw water pump type, trans, motor mounts, etc. Someone here may have the index to the code and would be able to fill you in.

The trans just needs a ocasional fluid change. I do mine every couple of years others will evey year. Use Dextron/Mercon - no synthetics!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote winniskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2009 at 3:23pm
Year 2: Launched boat. Started it without any priming. No water in the strainer after 10 seconds, so I shut it down. I primed the pump by filling the vertical hose coming up from it. Started the boat again, water quickly filled the strainer, thought I was all set. One month later, impeller was fried, probably sent toward its death by 10 seconds of dry spinning. Mechanic says there are no air leaks. I did not see a shut-off valve. I am trying to avoid priming, but it seems like I need to prime. Any thoughts?
Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote harddock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2009 at 9:55pm
Was the engine drained or was anti freeze added. If drained it would have started dry as opposed to anti frezze which would have been enough to prime.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote emccallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2009 at 10:29pm
It should prime very fast. If it doesn't then you eother have a problem with the pump or a poor seal somewhere. Trust the mechanic but verify that there are no air leaks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2009 at 10:31pm
It's got to be sucking air someplace or the impeller is bad again. Air leaks are tough! I don't know of a way to really check and don't know how your mechanic checked. Besides hose connections it can be the seal around a strainer, the shaft seal on the RWP and even the gasket on the halves of the RWP.


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emccallum View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote emccallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2009 at 11:11pm
Is the pump installed properly? I don't know what year you have, but it is verey easy for it to be installed in reverse. Do a search on rwp install.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-12-2009 at 8:33am
If installed with the inlet/outlet backwards then he wouldn't be cooling. The pump does pump water but looses it's prime. It's got to be sucking air someplace!!


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