Fish Nautique thru hull mystery
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10309
Printed Date: September-29-2024 at 3:21am
Topic: Fish Nautique thru hull mystery
Posted By: SemperFIsh
Subject: Fish Nautique thru hull mystery
Date Posted: April-28-2008 at 1:22pm
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I am redoing a 78 FN. The boat came to me in pieces and I have a question about plumbing. There is a (bigger) thru hull that is on the outside of the starboard exhaust. I believe it was used for a bilge at one time because there was a piece of old bilge hose remains clamped onto it. The boat came with two bilge pumps but one quit working and was removed. I am going to install a new one and was wondering where to route the outlet for the new bilge pump. The other is routed to the port side thru hull right below the deck. Can I route the new bilge to the thru hull by the exhaust? I think this would be below the water line, (not sure as I have never had the boat in the water) not sure if that matters.
Capt Duane ------------- Capt Duane Tampa, FL Semper FIsh N Dive |
Replies:
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: April-28-2008 at 2:05pm
Capt'n, I bet that fitting below the water line was for a live well. The bilge needs to exit well above the water line or it will back fill...I think.  ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: April-28-2008 at 3:10pm
I'll back up Greg on this! Yes you do not want a below the waterline thru hull on a bilge pump. The top of the exhaust thru hulls are usually at the water line. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
BuffaloBFN wrote:Posted By: SemperFIsh
Date Posted: April-28-2008 at 3:17pm
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Could I possibly have both bilge pumps hooked up to one thru hull or would this defeat the purpose of having two pumps because they would both pump the equivalant of one if sharing a bilge hose. ------------- Capt Duane Tampa, FL Semper FIsh N Dive |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: April-28-2008 at 3:26pm
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I think you 2 have a shop set-up somewhere and are doing boatwork on the sly lol ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: April-28-2008 at 4:11pm
You got half of it...only so much water can pass through a given exit as it won't compress like air. The other is you'd need a way to keep 1 pump from pushing the water back to the other pump. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: April-28-2008 at 4:14pm
Nope...at least not yet. We're looking at the property accross the street from you! ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: SemperFIsh
Date Posted: April-29-2008 at 1:39am
This makes sense since there is a piece of the old bilge hose sticking out a foot or so and chopped off at the front of the engine compartment that matches the remnant still clamped onto the thru hull beside the exhaust. I will reconnect this these two points with a pump and and new bilge hose to make the large fish box operational for bait once again. Back to the boat store. ------------- Capt Duane Tampa, FL Semper FIsh N Dive |
Posted By: tkbsurf
Date Posted: April-29-2008 at 11:38pm
| I may be wrong but, the larger through hull next to the exhaust is your deck scupper drain exit location. It is under the waterline at rest. Everyone else is correct that your bilge pump hoses should exit above the waterline. Mine has a pump located at the base of the transom behind the rudder. It's hose exits on the Port side above the waterline. My second pump(10.5gph)is located behine the engine next to the battery. The pick up strainer is under the engine at the lowest point of the bilge. It's hose exits on the Stbd side above the waterline as well. These boats are VERY wet! |
Posted By: fishyflorida
Date Posted: May-06-2008 at 4:35pm
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Hi- I see you're in Tampa - I'm across the bay by Clearwater. I have a FishNautique I’m restoring also (Nothing major; replacing the tired engine with a FI 351, doing an Awlgrip paint job).
I have four large thru hulls out the back - the two top ones with internal flaps for deck drainage, the lower of course for the exhaust. Another small one that drains the little stern bait well, and yet another for the main live well/fish box. You might want to consider installing a petcock at this fitting (mine did not have one), as well as replacing the old hoses and ensuring they are double clamped - standard for all below waterline fittings. One bilge pump thru hull on each side near the stern and above the waterline. All bilge pump exits should be above the waterline (double clamped), and each pump needs their own. In typical two bilge pump systems on small boats like this, there is a primary pump and a secondary (or emergency) pump. The secondary one is usually the larger one (when it kicks on, something is wrong, and you need to get the water out). You don't share the same exit because you want full redundancy in the system - separate float switches, wiring, hoses, etc., so a broken wire or split hose won’t sink you. |
Posted By: SemperFIsh
Date Posted: May-07-2008 at 2:14am
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Thanks for the post, I worked out all plumbing in the back. Hey fishyflorida, since I have a couple more question marks floating around, can you send me all the pics you have of your boat, how its set up and stuff. Or maybe I could see it in person. I am plumbing in a freshwater system with a bladder in the front big box, that will also act as extra weight in the front, and my idea is to run a 1/2 hose thru the front thru hull and down to inside the bilge, This would then hook up to a pump mounted on the side of the bilge compartment and the hose would come out a hole in the center console or maybe out the back by the fuel tank. Not sure yet. I also plumbed in a scoop in front of the engine and this hooks up to a pump that feeds the baitwell. After the pump there is a T in the line that hooks up to the bilge hose feeding the water in the baitwell and on the other side of the T is a hose that will relieve the pressure of the flow to the baitwell and redirect the flow to act as a saltwater washdown. If anybody has any better suggestions, please help me out. Thanks, onto a new problem: new post. ------------- Capt Duane Tampa, FL Semper FIsh N Dive |
Posted By: fishyflorida
Date Posted: May-07-2008 at 12:35pm
| SemperFIsh, I can take some pictures of what you're interested in - let me know. I am redoing mine, like I said, so it's not all there yet... Mine is the earlier model without the deep port and starboard bow storage, so I will be building that section up to match the later models and improve storage (and along with the storage, add some weight in the bow, as I believe you are also looking for). I will be adding an intake thru hull (1 1/2") at the stern for a 3700gph washdown and a livewell pump to be T'd to it after the shutoff valve. Anytime you put a hole in the hull at or below the waterline, you should glass in a pad inside the hull to bolt the flange of the valve to - if you Google this subject you will see lots of sites with instructions on this. One suggestion after reading your post may be to use a three way valve instead of the T if you are going to use one pump for double duty - that way you can use the full output of the pump for washdown instead of sharing it with the livewell. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-07-2008 at 12:41pm
 ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SemperFIsh
Date Posted: May-11-2008 at 11:35pm
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I first have to glass that pad in like fishyflorida said. Sounds like we are doing the same thing. Would a piece of pressure treated plywood work or would a piece of starboard (marine lumber) be better? Not sure but I am thinking the latter for the simple reason its in the bottom of the bilge and is going to under water alot. Fishyflorida, do you have pics of your pump that's finished. Also, If I wanted to post pics on here and the pic is too big of a file, how do I shrink this down? Not too savy on the whole posting pics thing, Thanks ------------- Capt Duane Tampa, FL Semper FIsh N Dive |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-12-2008 at 8:39am
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Duane, Don't use the treated. the chemicals will react with the resin. Do use epoxy resin. I would build up the area with several layers of fiberglass roving instead of putting anything in the glass.
Open a account on photobucket.com. It has a nice resizing tool. You can also take a look at the "posting pictures" thread here. It's got some good info. It took me awhile to get myself educated too!! http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5142&PN=1 - how to post pictures ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: fishyflorida
Date Posted: May-12-2008 at 12:18pm
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As stated, definitely don't use the treated wood; if you are following marine standards you will be using a bolt-down valve and will need to laminate a small (5-6") section to strengthen the hull at this location with a small piece of marine ply (with the hole drilled oversize in the wood first, so no open wood will be exposed near the valve). Starboard is excellent for many uses on boats, but not here – epoxy and fiberglass resin won’t bond to it.
Even if you just use a valve that threads to your thru hull, you will still want to add some lamination for strength, but you can forgo the wood. Clean the surface, grind with 60 grit, and add the roving and mat pieces soaked in epoxy resin. (mat first against the hull, then roving, then mat, then roving finally mat again. The mat helps fill the gaps in the coarse weave of the roving and makes it much stronger, as too much of just the resin is weak. There is an excellent explanation of valves here: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/seacock_primer |