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91 nautique electronic ignition prob

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Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: Common Questions
Forum Discription: Visit here first for common questions regarding your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10376
Printed Date: September-27-2024 at 4:42pm


Topic: 91 nautique electronic ignition prob
Posted By: skiwoods
Subject: 91 nautique electronic ignition prob
Date Posted: May-04-2008 at 1:30am
I have a 91 nautique with electronic ignition. After it gets hot it will not atart until it cools. The large module for the electronic ignition at the rear of the 351 Ford gets extremely hot when this happens. Will replacing that unit solve my problem or is something else causing it.
                 Skiwoods



Replies:
Posted By: 79Tique
Date Posted: May-04-2008 at 3:34am
Does the boat shut down on it's own or do you shut it off and it won't restart?

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Work to live, not live to work.



Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: May-05-2008 at 4:03pm
Originally posted by skiwoods skiwoods wrote:

I have a 91 nautique with electronic ignition. After it gets hot it will not atart until it cools. The large module for the electronic ignition at the rear of the 351 Ford gets extremely hot when this happens. Will replacing that unit solve my problem or is something else causing it.
                 Skiwoods


That is the protech ignition system and not just a module and if it is getting hot then it's junk and you need to upgrade to the dist conversion PCM/SKIDIM sales.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: skiwoods
Date Posted: May-11-2008 at 4:20am
To 79 Tique,
               After it has run for awhile it will sometimes shut off. At other times it won't restart after I have shut it off.
                   Skiwoods


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-11-2008 at 10:42am
Jack, My understanding of the Pro tech is they are nothing but a big problem! Chris (79) is correct that you should convert it. Parts are no longer available. Here's the conversion: http://www.skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RK107025A - Pro tech conversion

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: 79Tique
Date Posted: May-12-2008 at 1:20am
Skiwoods,

I don't know much about the Protech's, but I'm thinking this could be as simple as a bad coil.

My 94 had the protech system converted out before I owned it. Unless there is something about the protech that would suggest other wise I would try a new coil first ($20.00).

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Work to live, not live to work.



Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-12-2008 at 2:11am
Originally posted by 79Tique 79Tique wrote:

Skiwoods,

I don't know much about the Protech's, but I'm thinking this could be as simple as a bad coil.

My 94 had the protech system converted out before I owned it. Unless there is something about the protech that would suggest other wise I would try a new coil first ($20.00).

While the problem very well could lie in the coil, the Protec doesnt utilize a standard coil. It uses 4 coil packs, which are NLA. Youre only bet is to find them used from someone else who converted.

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Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: May-12-2008 at 2:49pm
Originally posted by TRBenj TRBenj wrote:

Originally posted by 79Tique 79Tique wrote:

Skiwoods,

I don't know much about the Protech's, but I'm thinking this could be as simple as a bad coil.

My 94 had the protech system converted out before I owned it. Unless there is something about the protech that would suggest other wise I would try a new coil first ($20.00).

While the problem very well could lie in the coil, the Protec doesnt utilize a standard coil. It uses 4 coil packs, which are NLA. Youre only bet is to find them used from someone else who converted.


unlike GM's system where you can replace the packs on the protect it's straight up replace the whole unit, same deal on the early buick units in cars. It contains individual coils that are in one potted assembly, module and all, typical of motorola's design so this makes it non-servicable and makes it a tosh the old and replace with new no in between.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: emccallum
Date Posted: September-17-2008 at 2:44pm
Personally, I would contact Vince at SKIDIM. He is very knowledgeable about the Protec ignition. He will certainly help you troubleshoot. It has been a couple of years ago, but, I thought he told me he could still get coil packs or still had some. I could be full of BS.


Posted By: woodyz
Date Posted: October-27-2008 at 11:54pm
I have a '91 Nat. Excel with only 240 hrs. I have the same problem where my boat shuts down to 2500RPM. I gues that I will have to change the Protec over to the Retro Kit. Does the Kit come with instructions? If not, has anyone done the conversion or is it to complicated and should I bite the bullet and take it to a Dealer?
Any help would be great.

Woodyz

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Woodyz 91 Excel


Posted By: stanfarrell
Date Posted: May-07-2009 at 7:29pm
Originally posted by skiwoods skiwoods wrote:

I have a 91 nautique with electronic ignition. After it gets hot it will not atart until it cools. The large module for the electronic ignition at the rear of the 351 Ford gets extremely hot when this happens. Will replacing that unit solve my problem or is something else causing it.
                 Skiwoods


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Stan Farrell


Posted By: stanfarrell
Date Posted: May-07-2009 at 7:30pm
Originally posted by skiwoods skiwoods wrote:

I have a 91 nautique with electronic ignition. After it gets hot it will not atart until it cools. The large module for the electronic ignition at the rear of the 351 Ford gets extremely hot when this happens. Will replacing that unit solve my problem or is something else causing it.
                 Skiwoods


Skiwoods, what did you end up doing to resolve this issue??? My boat is doing the exact same thing, thanks!

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Stan Farrell


Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: May-07-2009 at 8:35pm
PCM , was aware of the problem and a retro fit unit is available with all the parts and pieces to return to a dizzy type ignition system.
CorrectCraftParts can supply these , give Karen a call.......1-318-299-8547

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boat dr

/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier


Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: May-08-2009 at 12:15am
Billy: I heard that you have talked to my son. I figure you and him can speak the same language. He had lots of good stuff to say about the conversation. Thanks for treating him right.

john

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"Loud pipes save lives"



AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"...


Posted By: skiwoods
Date Posted: May-09-2009 at 3:17am
Stan Farrell,
             I didn't fix the problem yet. Had some personal issues last year. It is the Protec ignition system which replacement parts are no longer available. You can get a replacement kit from skidim.com for about $400 plus which I have been assured will fix the problem. I have been told lately that you can get a kit from correct craft but I haven't verified that. Good luck and hope this helped.
               Skiwoods


Posted By: BWBob
Date Posted: June-30-2009 at 1:53am
My 93 would sporatically shut down to limp mode as well. I checked everything but the answer in the end was a bad oil pressure sending unit.
You can bypass the temp sensor and the oil pressure sensor by leaving the wire unconnected (I think it was open, not shorted). If you do this you do leave your engine unprotected, but for trouble shooting it helped me out. The gauges are off of different sensors so the dash will look fine but the input to the module makes is think the engine has a problem, hence the limp mode to get you back to the dock. It would idle fine but if you tried to crank it up it would stutter like half the plug wires were off. The only way to clear it was to turn the key off and back on.

Nothing on my units got hot but the local dealer did have a used coil pack and module on the shelf that I used to test. Once I eliminated the pack, I switched to checking the sensors and found it by process of elimination.
A check of the sensor with an ohm meter showed it had like 10 ohms to ground when the engine was running. It should be basically infinity or an "open".

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93 SN



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