prop shaft removal
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10392
Printed Date: June-22-2024 at 11:34pm
Topic: prop shaft removal
Posted By: ethyl
Subject: prop shaft removal
Date Posted: May-05-2008 at 5:09pm
| I have checked the forums but have some questions. My 65 Am.Skier needs new packing and a new piece of hose between the shaft log and stuffing box. I removed coupling bolts and set screws but can't get the coupling apart. Do I need to heat the flange? Also the shaft is not cenered in the log but seems to turn ok. Should the shaft be centered in the log? What sort of hose should be used between log and box? Thanks in advance for any help. John. |
Replies:
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: May-05-2008 at 5:23pm
|
Eric uses a Really Big Hammer and a Cold Chisel.........No dont do that .....
Just pulling Erics Chain.....TUG TUG ,,,,,,,, Boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: SUNAPEE CROW
Date Posted: May-05-2008 at 6:28pm
|
John,
I made a puller from a piece of flat bar stock.Roughly 1/2 inch thick by 1-1/2 wide by about 8 inches long. Drill two holes that line up with two opposing holes in the flange. These holes should be to the end of the 8 inch dimension. Drill and tap a third hole in the center of the other two. This should be a fine thread like 1/2-20. Bolt the bar to the coupling and run the center bolt in against the shaft, using the the offset end of the 8"dimension as a lever that you can get a wrench on or block it to the hull. If you block it to the hull, put a good sized chunk of 2X6 under it so you spread the load. I can't help with your other questions. |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: May-05-2008 at 6:31pm
That's a good idea. Probably a lot easier on the coupling than the bolt and socket method. ------------- |
SUNAPEE CROW wrote:Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-05-2008 at 8:06pm
I'm going to disagree on this. I do not feel that only using 2 of the 4 holes on the flange is the way to go. Too much pressure and your chances of bending the flange are twice as likely. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: May-05-2008 at 8:14pm
|
Pete, wouldn't the 8" of steel stabilize the flange? I'm surprised no one's ever made a decent tool for pressing the shaft out. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-05-2008 at 10:13pm
Bruce, No - the 1/2" by 8" steel is only bolted on in 2 spots and pulling on the coupling on those two spots. Here's you puller: http://www.buckalgonquin.com/pages/ProductPages/Shafting/flange_puller_page.html - coupling puller ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: May-05-2008 at 10:50pm
|
Gotta agree with Pete, Sometimes The Easier Way Is Simply WRONG.........Boat dr ------------- boat dr /diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart /diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: May-05-2008 at 10:58pm
|
That coupling puller is the ticket.
Boat dr, that engine stand is too short. So on with my plan to build a stand. I did buy an engine leveler today to hook to my come along. One of the lifting rings is right next tot he carberator. I'm hoping I don;t have to remove it when I haul the engine. ------------- |
Posted By: ethyl
Date Posted: May-06-2008 at 2:17am
| Thanks for replies. if I can get the coupler parts apart I will try these methods to extract the shaft. Now how do I get the two parts of the coupler apart???Thanks. |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: May-06-2008 at 2:58am
|
I used a 2" chissel and a hammer and gently tapped it, rotating the shaft and it eventualy split, but Boat Dr implied that's not the best way. Your thread is back on track, maybe someone chime in with a better way. ------------- |
Posted By: SUNAPEE CROW
Date Posted: May-06-2008 at 2:59am
|
I am going to pleasantly disagree with Pete on the Buck Algonquin tool being the best answer! There is no provision to prevent rotation of the shaft/puller while you tighten the center bolt short of using a pipe wrench or some other elaborate appendage that could bolt to the coupler and prevent it from rotating. Also, keep in mind that the Buck Algonquin is CAST IRON! The puller itself needs the four point attachment to keep from fracturing. In my approach , the bar stock is snugged up with two 3/8" bolts across the face of the coupler and there is very little probability that you will distort the coupler. Every one that I have ever worked with has been steel and not cast iron.
Additionally, if the puller I describe won't do the job without a whole lot of effort, you have a bigger problem like a twisted or rolled key. Keep in mind that these fits were intended to be about a .002" press fit. Nuff said... it worked great and it cost NOTHING! I'll bet the Algonquin cost four 30 packs ($65.00) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-06-2008 at 8:44am
|
Rick, I never endorsed the Buck Algonquin puller. Bruce asked if one was made and I provided a link.
With your long bar method, you do have the advantage of stopping the rotation from wrenching on the center bolt. Sounds like you don't like cast iron!! It's yield strength exceeds all hot rolled steels and is roughly the same as most cold rolled. Are you sure that the designers of the puller put 4 attachment points on it to keep it from breaking? I also never said your method wouldn't work. What I did say is pulling on only 2 points the chances of distorting the coupling are greater. I'd rather pull on 4 points and not worry about calculating out the stress's of snugging up a flat bar to the face to overcome pulling on 2 points. Eric chucks up the shaft with the coupling and trues up the face. (I sometimes feel he does this because he gets rough with the removal!!!!) It's not a bad idea especially on a new coupling because you never know how true the bore is to the face. I have done it but only after setting up the shaft/coupling in V blocks and running the dial indicator on the face to see how true it runs. Did you check yours? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-06-2008 at 10:21am
|
Pete i do it because of others, im doing a pair off of some 1.5's and the guy beat the hell out of them, i ask what happened and of course he blamed it on someone else, the couplings were still attached to the transmissions and the shafts were pulled out.....slide hammer maybe? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: May-06-2008 at 10:24am
|
What's the best way to get the flanges apart if they are stuck? ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-06-2008 at 11:12am
Very interesting!! I was just talking about the use of a slide hammer with someone yesterday. My comment was that if the shaft and coupling are a good interference fit I really didn't feel a slide hammer would do it. You need the constant and heavy pull of a puller or the bolts. Comments Eric? So, You have never gotten mad at a problem coupling and hammered on it!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-06-2008 at 11:14am
Bruce, A chisel and hammer just like you did it. If you nick the face a little, a couple of strokes with a flat file will clean it up. Edit: A old wood chisel works well because it is ground to the fine edge. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-06-2008 at 12:10pm
|
never ever Pete, even on big 12 inchers, I'll cinch a come along around the shaft and grab something on the back of the boat and come along it, the only thing i will ever use a slide hammer for is to remove gimble bearings and ocasionally a case bearing. other than that it hangs on the wall. i have a ground heavy putty knife to seperate the halves and a very small hammer. i can use a hammer cause i also can clean the coupling too. lol
------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-06-2008 at 12:11pm
|
yes a wood chisel does work well, but dont let Greg know that ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: ethyl
Date Posted: May-06-2008 at 11:11pm
| Sounds like you guys have tried everything! I really thank you for the ideas and hope one of them works. These boats are so cool and I would hate to see mine sink due to a foolish mistake on my part. Thanks again. |
Posted By: Barracuda
Date Posted: May-06-2008 at 11:46pm
|
If you can seperate the coupling from the flange, try the socket and bolts method- think of it as a psuedo press.
-Brad ------------- Former: http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=759" rel="nofollow - '86 Nautique http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=507" rel="nofollow - '65 Barracuda |
Posted By: SUNAPEE CROW
Date Posted: May-06-2008 at 11:58pm
| I almost hate to volunteer how I got mine apart the first time but here we go. Pull the prop, pull the rudder, make a plate that you can get onto the taper of the prop shaft and run a sacrificial nut onto the shaft to hold the plate on the shaft. I have a slide hammer that as best I know was made to pull rear axles from '55-'57 Chevys. You will have to drill a couple of holes in the plate to match the puller. Hook them together and hammer away. It took two blows ! Everything was free and no HAMMER marks. By the way, if you own an inboard and don't have a prop puller, go buy one or make sure that you have a friend that owns one. I can only anticipate that ther will be several comments that I took the long way around... but the rudder needed to be repacked anyway! |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-07-2008 at 12:14am
|
slide hammers are a gray area, in the wrong hands they can be deadly... i plead the 5th from here on out.
I will eventually take a picture of a PCM 1.23 and post it, it is a great example of what can happen to one of these transmissions with a slide hammer in the wrong hands, the back end is broken off from the main case because the guy was using a slide hammer to get the shaft out of the coupling ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-07-2008 at 7:43am
Rick, If you were able to use a slide hammer, then I will say that the coupling was fretted due to bad alignment. Just as Eric has stated, it's not the recommened proceedure. If somehow you got a .002" (.0005" is enough) interference, with the through bore surface area of the coupling, you will rip the threads off the tail end of the prop shaft before the coupling comes off using the slide hammer. I don't feel you would even get that coupling on the shaft with the .002" under. With heat and dry ice you will not get enough expansion/contraction. With a press, you will shear the fit. A couple weeks ago, I was down in the tool room and saw what happened when one of our less experienced tool makers tried to press a 3/4" dowel pin into a die block that he had reamed .002" under. Not good! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-07-2008 at 10:21am
|
heat smear Pete? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: May-07-2008 at 11:02am
|
Was the original point of the slide hammer to just separate the 2 unbolted flanges, held together by a lttle rust? no one would try to pull the shaft out of it's respective coupler using a slide hammer, would they?
I had just cut my shaft in half to get it out. Was going to use the coupler over again - but couldn't get a gear puller to reach the hub (didn't want to use the flange for pulling nor could find a shop that would press it for me). So I iced, heat & beat until one angry hammer blow came down & smashed the pilot. Next AM I called General Prop & ordered a new coupler that they reamed to fit my new shaft. It went back together very easily. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-07-2008 at 11:44am
Eric, In the case of our tool maker pressing the dowel in, it split 15K worth of die block. Hard pressed into hard there is no place for the materal to go. With a soft material being pressed together, yes, it will shear the fit. (it also blows any trueness of the coupling face to the shaft) With a .0005" shrink to fit, there isn't any shearing. Chris, The slide hammer was used to pull the coupling and not just separate the coupling halves. With a known bad shaft, cutting it like you did sure saves some time and frustration. When you ordered your new coupling, did the fit come up? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SUNAPEE CROW
Date Posted: May-07-2008 at 10:11pm
| Yes,I used the slide hammer to separate the two halves of the coupler. The puller I described was used to get the coupler off the shaft. Pete, you are right about the fit. I should have used the phrase interference fit and I was too lazy to pull out my Machinery Handbook. Eric, any tool in the wrong hands can be disasterous but you would have to have a really big slide to pull off the back of a transmission. Although I can see that if you are trying to pull a gnarled shaft out of the coupling it might happen. In order to use a come along, to what and how would you hook it up in a ski boat? Please keep responding as am finding what I thought were proven methods can be improved. I already have the stock to make a Buck Algonquin version with a handle. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: May-07-2008 at 10:25pm
|
Pete - I had ordered the shaft by itself thinking I could reuse the coupler - this was against Boat Dr's advice BTW. (I'm cheap)
My coupler was so stuck to the shaft that it certainly would have distorted the flange using the 4 bolt method. I only moved it 1/8 inch with all my swearing. General Prop aims to please so they had sold me the shaft alone. When I called back to order the coupler they recommended I find someone to ream the coupler to fit. It was only $17 to ship the shaft back to them & at that point in my frustration I thought it was well worth the shipping it to have them take care of this, as they do this everyday. Just another example of knowing when to let a professional take care of something. For installation I heated the new coupler up on the barbie & it slid right on. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-07-2008 at 11:35pm
|
Rick, Sorry I thought you pulled the shaft out of the coupling with the slide hammer. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-07-2008 at 11:45pm
|
Sun, no come alongs on a ski boat, in the past i am guilty of using a slide hammer to SEPERATE the couplings tapping gently, never to remove the shaft though, the housing i am refering to is pretty thin aluminum and the guy was slide hammering it to get the shaft out and it broke
the come along thing is for larger boats, you have to cinch a chain around the shaft and put alot of pull pressure to get the couplings to seperate, and once seperated you also use the come along to pull the shaft back. its a real bear sometimes ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: May-08-2008 at 12:39am
 I guess now I know about 5 different ways to remove the coupler. I am dangerous now... 
One thing I am not sure about is how you remove the shaft from the boat. Do you need to remove the rudder and pull it back? What else needs to be removed beside the coupler? Sorry for the dumb question but I have never done it and I suspect I will be. Another question: Can I replace the cutlas bearing without completly removing the shaft? My shaft is not turning smooth and I suspect is either MA, bearing, or shaft. Thanks in advanced, 
|
Posted By: ethyl
Date Posted: May-08-2008 at 2:02am
| Speaking of strut bearings, I need to replace mine and am wondering what size bearing I need, where to find it , how to remove the old one and how to install the new one. I have not checked the forims yet but intend to. Thanks in advance. |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-08-2008 at 10:25am
|
check the forums on the bearing r and r,
Anthony, sometimes the rudder is offset sometimes its not, Almond Joy has nuts, mounds dont. lol its true if the rudder is in the way you'll have to pull the rudder which isnt that big of a job Eric ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: May-08-2008 at 7:56pm
|
That makes sense. Thanks Eric.
John, this thread is very god explaining a lot of the http://correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4742&KW=bearing+replacement - bearing R&R . At the end I believe Pete explain why removing the rudder is not a good idea. I liked the idea of putting the bearing in the freezer first. Maybe it helps a little bit. |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: May-08-2008 at 9:31pm
| I checked the shaft and is slightly offset to the right of the rudder. It might clear the rudder, I hope the offset is correct and is not a bent strut. The strut looks ok but I can't tell if is bent or not. I will check later when I remove the shaft. Maybe with a laser pointer I see better. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-09-2008 at 7:11am
|
Anthony, Keep us posted to what you find.
I mentioned not removing the strut if possible. "Posted: July 19 2007 at 11:41am | IP Logged -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- "Mike, I think removing the shaft is the easier way even though you will need to drop the rudder. If you pull the strut, it then needs to be resealed and then I would recommend checking the alignment of the strut to the engine. If it bolted back on in a slightly different position then the engine will need to be moved. I have also seen shims between the strut base and the hull put there to line it's bore up with the hole in the bottom of the boat." ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: May-09-2008 at 8:21am
|
If the shaft is not in line with the rudder, isn't that a good sign of a bent strut?? ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-09-2008 at 10:17am
|
no, they will offset some rudders to accomadate shaft removal, alot of the older ones dont ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: May-09-2008 at 11:46am
|
I will post pictures tomorrow and see what you guys think. For the most it looks like the offset barely clears the rudder. Also it looks inline with the fins. Maybe I getting paranoid but the rudder had a shadow of a marker, those numbers the junk yard do on parts. Is possible the PO never disclose that info to me. I drove and felt pretty good. My boat is an 88 SN. Thanks for the feedback. I am really grateful for this website, specially the guru's comment of course.
|
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-09-2008 at 1:26pm
|
I have removed the strut in the past to get shafts out, sometimes to get to the rudder is impossible and its your only option other than removing the engine ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: May-09-2008 at 2:38pm
If its an 88: Remove one bolt out of the rear of your trailer piece that protects the prop, loosen the opposite side. Then have another person hold onto the rudder. Remove the bolt that goes into the top of the rudder. Loosen the clamp that goes around the rudder. Remove rudder. Tim ------------- |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-09-2008 at 3:00pm
|
anthony has an '87 (which doesn't appear to be in the diaries) and is on a newer Ramlin trailer, he may even have clearance. ------------- |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: May-09-2008 at 8:16pm
Hollywood is correct, I have an '87 on a Ramlin trailer. You guys remember everything even what I have . I think the clearance between the rudder and prop guard is about 5 inches. The guard is removable so the job might be easy. I have to find out if the strut is bent. Maybe with a 90 degree ruler I can tell. I get the picture since they speak a 1000 words.
|
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-09-2008 at 8:24pm
|
I was also talking in to regards of getting to the rudder on the inside too...its real tough sometimes, enough to make you say im finding a new line of work ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-09-2008 at 8:43pm
|
Bruce, Does your brothers Century have the hole in the rudder to get the prop shaft out? Some of the older ones did and I can't remember the year they stopped doing it. Great idea - Turn the helm/rudder ether full port or starboard and pull the shaft! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: May-09-2008 at 10:04pm
|
I think it doesn't look good. Is the strut suppose to be leaning a little towards starboard (right I guess).
Here is the picture: 
close up: 
cont... |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: May-09-2008 at 10:15pm
| I was going to upload more but I don't know why I am getting a VB script error. |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: May-09-2008 at 10:36pm
strut:
another closeup: 
|
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-09-2008 at 11:17pm
|
Anthony, Well from my side of the computer screen, it sure looks bent! When you unbolt the coupling halves, it may tell you more. But, there is a chance the strut was bent and if the shaft still lined up with the log/stuffing box, then it's still possible to re align the engine to the shaft! Open up the coupling and keep the pictures coming. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: May-09-2008 at 11:22pm
| Thanks Pete, I will inform. |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: May-10-2008 at 1:44am
|
Lizard...
Just went outside and looked at mine the same way as you did. I came to the same conclusion....my strut was bent... Then I finished pulling the shaft.. Strut is not bent. Pull your shaft and check again tommorow. Tim ------------- |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: May-10-2008 at 12:45pm
|
Tim,
So your strut looks the same way and you don't think is bent? How can you tell if is correct? I guess that is sort of good news for me. So is possible the that the way it looks is correct. I don't want to pull the strut out of there. I removed the coupling and the prop is still very hard to turn. I think my cutlass is busted. When I try to turn it sound like an old rusty bolt. At least one thing is for sure, I have a bad misalignment or a bent strut. More pictures: 
|
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-10-2008 at 1:50pm
Well, It still looks bent to me!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: May-10-2008 at 2:13pm
Pete, it does not. I've never seen one of those. Good idea, but one more thing to line up. There is a serious problem with that alignment and it's not likely on the engine end. Pete, did you see this pic of the old Interceptor with adjustable mounts.  ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-10-2008 at 10:14pm
|
Bruce, I did see them. You can buy them and install in place of the wood blocks/shims. Are you thinking about it? I'd just stick with the wood. They really aren't hard to use. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: May-12-2008 at 5:05am
|
Well, shaft and strut are out. Removing the coupling was a lot of fun.
This is my strut, can you see the problem: 
I believe my strut is bent: 
It was so bent that it made little groves on the shaft. Look for at the polished marks: 
I guess the questions are: Who fixes these struts and any do I need a new shaft? |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: May-12-2008 at 5:08am
| A quick inspection of the shaft look straight. I need to do the V block test. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-12-2008 at 7:31am
|
Anthony, Find someone with a hydraulic press and see if they are willing to try and straighten the strut. A auto repair, marina, machine shop?? After checking the shaft for straightness and if good, it may still be usable if the groves aren't very deep. From the picture, it doesn't look that bad. Clean it up with a flat file if needed and some abrasive strips. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: May-12-2008 at 12:12pm
|
I have to search the threads but I know somebody recommended a shop. The first thing I am going try is with my prop shop. I have seen him rebuild from a whole blade to outboard bottoms. I try to removed the set screw in the strut and I screw the bolt. I need to remove that too. As always, thanks for the advice.
|
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: May-12-2008 at 12:37pm
|
I just went through the shaft thing..
Best deal going is the complete ARE system for $283.00 with your CCFAN discount. Tim ------------- |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: May-12-2008 at 12:50pm
|
Tim,
From SkiDimm? I am trying to get a local shop to straight my strut. Does anybody recommend repair shop or if I have to buy a new one from where? |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: May-14-2008 at 1:58pm
|
Pete, what is the minimun variance I should see in the shaft. I got a dial indicator but I don't have the V block. First test using whatever I had the indicator showed +/- 0.01 variance. I bet some of that is due to my setup. I can see +/- 0.003 just by touching it.
I sent my strut to Murphy's propeller in VA. Somebody recommend them in another thread. They seem very nice and at least have an idea of what they are doing. Must of the people around town didn't and I got the "hmm we can try" answer. I think it would cost about $175. That includes getting straight, removing the set screws which I strip the socket, and a new bearing. I thought about putting a new XPC bearing but for convinience I went this way. Whatever they put on can't be that bad. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-14-2008 at 2:32pm
|
Anthony, Glad you found someone to try and straighten the strut.
It sounds like you need to get the shaft set up in something better to get some decent readings. Ideally V blocks on a surface plate. The straightness tolerance on a good or new shaft is .001 to .002 inches per foot. I feel a bad shaft would be anything over twice that. This means if you have 2 feet between the V blocks, you do not want to see a reading in the middle over .008" It sure doesn't sound like very much but it doesn't take much to get the vibrations going especially now with the fancy CNC props. Do check at the small end of the taper as it will check for bending just aft of the strut. This is the spot that you will see the most problems from hitting something. Did you ever see that picture that Reid posted of his broken shaft? It was just aft of the strut. Eric, What do you consider bad? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: May-14-2008 at 3:16pm
Yes- From SkiDim. ANd for measuring your shaft: You need to measure the shaft runout and also check the face runout with the coupler on. A local machine shop should be able to help you. Tim ------------- |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-14-2008 at 11:43pm
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I seen a spec on new and it was .002 over 4ft.
I checked into buying 1" SS shaft because I was going to cut 50 inch lengths and have one side tapered and threaded by my machinist which was a one time in the cnc process and then i would cut the shaft to size per what length someone would want and i would chuck it into my milling machine and key it, I was hoping to keep the shafts around $125.00 each, but then they offer 20 different types....pump shaft, ground to size, 306, unfinished etc... so if anyone knows the the exact material i will research it further and start making shafts and possibly couplings ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: May-15-2008 at 12:41am
Looking for V blocks prove to be challenging but I found something similar in Harbor Freight:
I set them 2 feet apart and the maximum variation was 0.006 and that was at before the the beginning of the key. 
Now, at the end of taper before the thread start I noticed a variation of 0.014. I am concern about that. What you guys think? Should I buy a new shaft. 
Thanks, |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-15-2008 at 8:54am
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Anthony, Considering the bent strut, I would have to say that your boat took a hit and at that time bent the shaft too. There are shops that will straighten shafting but it is risky. If the bend was in the middle so the support is on ether side (between the coupling & strut), I would consider the straightening but on the prop end I wouldn't. I also notice the dark area of the shaft at the coupling end. This is a indication of fretting so that would be a negative on the fit of the shaft/coupling. If you have the $$, I would go to General and have them set you up with a new shaft and coupling. They will make sure the coupling fit is correct and true the face of the coupling up to the shaft. Did you indicate the middle? Just being curious! Nice idea on the V blocks! Inexpensive Harbor stuff but it worked.
Eric, Do a internet search on marine shafting and you will find lots out there! I would say that getting into the competition and the investment on all the different couplings and shafting of different diameters/materals would be a struggle. Would the return be that great? I have heard so many different opinions on the shaft material. Last week I was talking to a friend who was repalcing both shafts in his 24' twin Chris. He is the guy I know who rebuilds the Chris/Hercules so on the tech end is very competent. He told me he decided on 304 rather than one of the fancy "marine" grades. Half the money and just as good. I have 304 in both my X55 and the Atom. I would go with 316 for salt water. Keep in mind that the fancy "marine" grades are nothing more that private labeling of standard grades with tight control on the alloys. It's almost like drinking bottled water over tap water. (exception: not Louisiana tap water) ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-15-2008 at 12:04pm
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I thought about it and he has the CNC's to handle the job and he also is looking for other sources of income, were reverse engineering Lamborgini door hinges right now...how i get my self involved in this stuff I don't know!!!
but the shafting wouldnt be so bad in quanities, the problem is the capital to manufacture and stock them ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: May-15-2008 at 1:40pm
Pete, thank you so much for your input. I hope one day I can repay the favor. I never noticed the dark spot at the end. Good catch. I was considering getting a new shaft already so I'm calling general today. I did the measurements as you told me. You were right. The shaft is 0.004" of variance in the middle. I set the V blocks 2 feet apart. Then I took a reading every 3 inches. The problem started showing after the strut marks, like you told me. I bet the boat took a hit. When I bought it it had an ACME 422 which is the wrong prop. The PO told me the boat was stolen from Dallas and later found on shore in Austin.
 Thanks on the comment of my improvised V blocks worked great. For the most my readings were accurate. I sample the same location many times to make sure the rig was working properly. Not bad for $5 each on sale.
It will be great to have Eric in the shaft buisiness. It would definetly make things easier. But the capital investment might be a big obstacle. Maybe if he finds somebody going out of buisiness... wishful thinking |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: May-15-2008 at 3:01pm
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I called general. They need a part number. Where can I find a part number for my shaft?
Thanks, |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: May-15-2008 at 11:49pm
Looked into it last year... I will even fwd you the quotes. Not a money maker.... Tim ------------- |
Posted By: SUNAPEE CROW
Date Posted: May-17-2008 at 12:24am
| No, No I did not want to bugger the faces of the flanges and as someone suggested the were rusted together. I have a fine selection of hammers, chisels and punches but they are my last resort. I just ordered the shaft log rubber and GO TEX shaft seal from SKIDIM today, so I will be revisiting this real soon. |
Posted By: SUNAPEE CROW
Date Posted: May-18-2008 at 4:34am
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Eric,
In order to make your prop shaft business proposition work you have to think about manufacturing in quantities of one. The only inventory you have is bar stock and if you do it one at a time, the value added (labor) becomes a receivable as soon as you ship. With CNC capability the changeover time between pieces should be insignificant |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-18-2008 at 10:50am
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i was thinking of having him make 20 of them at 52" and cut to size needed and key, my biggest concern was the material. i checked into and there are 20 different materials from 306 to special ground pump shaft which was more pricey, i need to find out exactly what material is used....i know i could use ground to size pump shaft but then that would inflate the cost ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-18-2008 at 1:36pm
306?? Eric, Thought you may have missed this. From above: "I have heard so many different opinions on the shaft material. Last week I was talking to a friend who was replacing both shafts in his 24' twin Chris. He is the guy I know who rebuilds the Chris/Hercules so on the tech end is very competent. He told me he decided on 304 rather than one of the fancy "marine" grades. Half the money and just as good. I have 304 in both my X55 and the Atom. I would go with 316 for salt water. Keep in mind that the fancy "marine" grades are nothing more that private labeling of standard grades with tight control on the alloys. It's almost like drinking bottled water over tap water. (exception: not Louisiana tap water)" ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: May-28-2008 at 1:34am
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Here is an update. I sent the strut to Murphys propeller in VA and they got it straight, replaced the stripped screw, and put a new cutlass bearing. Cost me $195 and I think it was worth it.
before: 
after
New set screws: 
My new shaft , looks nice:
Thanks for all the help. |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-28-2008 at 10:33am
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couple whacks with a hammer and your all set to go...oh sorry...that will be 195.00 lol eric. seems they have nice equipment ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: May-28-2008 at 12:43pm
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LMFAO You can tell they chip a little bit of the strut.
Getting it straight was about $65. Hammer $5 know where to hammer $60. I think they heated too because is repainted and the old caulk is burned. To removed the stripped set screw and a new bearing was $110. The turn around was quick. Within 2 days they had it straigthen and within a week I got it back. Not bad, it was nice to deal with them. |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: June-04-2008 at 9:28am
So, you're a chiseler?!!?  (3 Stooges) ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: 78SkiTique
Date Posted: June-11-2008 at 9:01pm
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Anthony: I am going through the exact, and I mean exact same problem as you have. You can follow the thread under "new owner problem". My strut was even bent and twisted the same as yours. I just got it back from being straigtened and it seems we paid about the same$$$. They put new cutlass bearings in, checked the shaft, corrected a slight bend in the end of the shaft, and tuned up the propeller. I am just starting to put it back together and am going to shoot for perfect allignment. Good luck! I had my strut straightened at Bay View Marine in Warwick, RI. If all goes well after I get it running I would say I would highly recommend them.
Skip ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3016&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1925&yrend=2009" rel="nofollow - My '78 Ski Tique |
Posted By: anthonylizardi
Date Posted: June-11-2008 at 9:14pm
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Cool, let us me know how it goes. Is always good to know another place. I don't have any compleins about Murphys props, except for for the shipping. They were quick and very easy to work with. I haven't found time to install my new shaft and bearing. I am dying to do so but school hasn't let me. One more project and I am done. I hope the aligment goes well. I would hate another surprise. Thanks for let me know you paid about the same. I found the price very reasonable but didn't know how much other people were paying.
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