expanded foam in hull question
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10561
Printed Date: September-26-2024 at 8:21pm
Topic: expanded foam in hull question
Posted By: captpete
Subject: expanded foam in hull question
Date Posted: May-20-2008 at 6:49pm
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Yet another question for you experts. I removed all the foam from my '86 Nautique and have reinforced the inside of the hull with additional glass cloth and resin -especially along the area where the chine meets the bottom. Stringers are good. I am going to replace the floorboards with PT plywood. Is that foam structural and does it have to be replaced? If so do I have to fill the complete cavity below my floor boards ( I know the original floor was glass over foam, which I removed). By the way, the old foam was soaked and weighed a ton! A situation I would like to prevent in the future. I also intend to glass over the new floor prior to carpet installation.Thanks guys.
Peter |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-20-2008 at 8:23pm
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Peter, The foam is for flotation and isn't structural. The stringers are. How did you check the condition of the stringers? What's going on with the chine area? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: captpete
Date Posted: May-20-2008 at 8:34pm
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I can drive a large nail into solid wood and the engine mount bolts are turned in tight. There are some cracks in the gelcoat along the chines on each side running about two feet about midship; one piece of gel is actually missing (about the size of a quarter). When I removed the carpet I noticed the glass floor had separated from the hull sides which prompted me to remove the floor and found the soaked foam. My guess is this allowed the gel coat to flex and resulted in the cracking. New floor will be glassed into the sides. Thanks for your prompt reply.
Peter |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-20-2008 at 8:37pm
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Pete, Im not convinced that the foam isnt structural, at least in the newer, wider boats. While the hull of my Tique doesnt bend and bow under my weight (no floor), my '90 would depending on where I stepped. The foam provided a sandwich keeping it all solid.
You also missed an important point- you neglected to tell Peter not to use pressure treated wood! ------------- |
Posted By: 80 Ski-Tique
Date Posted: May-21-2008 at 12:37am
| I know we all have discussed to foam or not a hundred times now but I have talked to and seen proof of that the foam does provide strength to the hull. It helps keep the bottom from deforming when hitting waves. The hull can be used with out it but you are more likely to have issues pounding in choppy water and this can lead to stress cracks. This was from a nautical engineer. I hate the water getting in the foam but I am re-foaming anyways because I have enough issues with the boat pounding as is. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-21-2008 at 8:01am
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Peter, Tim's correct that I missed the "PT" abbreviation you used for pressure treated ply! If you go the plywood route, you are better off coating the wood with epoxy resin. The chemicals in the treated cause bond failure with ether polyester or epoxy. (do use epoxy)
Before you get too far into this project, I'd like you to make sure the wood is ok. Many times the tops will be good but the bottoms will have rot. Small 1" (hole saw) pieces of glass can be removed off the stringers close to the hull. You had lots of soaked foam so I'm just concerned. The foam being a part of the structure of the hull is still open to discussion! The guys are correct that the newer hull are thinner. The gel cracking along the chine/floor has several theories to the cause. Stringers, foam problems as well as having extra weight from boarding sacs. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-21-2008 at 10:04am
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if you look at it this way, was it put in for safety or was it put in for structure?
i would say it was put in for safety and the only minimal benefit would possibly be some structural quality in using it, it has no grain so its not for adding strength.....it has no use, if the gunnels were double walled like a whaler then pumping a sealed cavity i could see its benefits. it sounds like a double edge sword...in a CC its for safety in a Boston Whaler it is a combination of both ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: captpete
Date Posted: May-21-2008 at 10:12am
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Your comments are helpful. I will check the bottom of the stringers this weekend. My plan now is to add two layers of fiberglass to the hull where the foam was ( what about glassing in 1/8" luan between the layers?) for strength. The boat will not be subjected to excess pounding if I can help it. I really can not see how new foam will not become water logged again.
I will also use 1/2" plywood coated with resin and then the upper part, once installed, will be glassed. Interestingly, I really enjoy this working on boats! Most of my time on the water has been as a captain on my 31' fishing charter boat - of which I am now selling because of fuel prices. I guess this project is my "hot rod" that I always wanted to build in high school. Anyway, great being a member of this site! Peter |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-21-2008 at 10:54am
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Peter, Are you adding the 2 layers of glass between the stringers because you feel it's needed for hull support without the foam? Just wondering!
Adding the luan is not agood idea. First, I don't feel it's going to add structurally and also luan is a very poor choice from the standpoint of rot.(just in case you get water in it) ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-21-2008 at 11:09am
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2 Pete's... its to early
not to often do these boats take a pounding, they are flat water boats and 98% of the time they are in flat water and the the benefits of foam are non existant except for safety purposes, actually if you make the cavities pretty much air tight it is sufficient enough time for the boat not to sink and have the rescue helicopter come and plop you out from the 300 acre lake or river. in the long run foam does more harm than good. if these were ocean going vessels i surely woud consider foaming because you may be floating a little longer out there lol ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: captpete
Date Posted: May-21-2008 at 11:12am
| Well, that was my idea. Overkill? or How can it hurt. Scratch the luan. The two layers would be between the chines down to the first stringer. |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-21-2008 at 12:57pm
Im not so sure, Eric. The hull of my '90 would oilcan under my own weight in certain places. I would imagine that would make for some interesting handling on the water. It has no such tendencies with the foam and floor back in. ------------- |
eric lavine wrote:Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-21-2008 at 8:35pm
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im looking at it a from a different angle cause i could think of 10 other ways to make a boat more structurally sound than using foam, it is required and the hulls were designed around its use, since it is required why not use it as part of the structure and build the boat in this fashion, lets skimp on real ways to make a boat sound and use the foam which is required and to some extent does add a compression factor and not a twist factor, im not doubting it as to be part of the structure, but because it was required it was used as an addition to the structure,
if the foam was not required then the engineers i would guess never would use it because of cost and tie in the hull in other ways and make the hull more rigid ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: May-22-2008 at 6:17pm
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IMHO, the foam had four original purposes in order of importance:
1. Meet USCG flotation requirements to prevent boat from sinking. 2. Provides support for the fiberglass floor. 3. Prevent oil canning of hull bottom and thus... 4. Reduce sound transmission of wave hitting bottom of hull. The boats are structurally sufficient without the foam, but why not put it back in? Today's modern foam is closed cell and will not soak up water like the old stuff. It might however trap it in places it should not be, just seal it up well and you are fine. Remember to seal all screws penetrating the floor. ------------- |
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: May-22-2008 at 7:46pm
Quit half-assing the job and put new stringers in. Why do all of that work and not replace the stringers?? ------------- |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-22-2008 at 9:11pm
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to foam or not to foam, that is the question...its personal preference, and it could go either way ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: captpete
Date Posted: May-22-2008 at 10:14pm
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I guess I opened up that "can of worms" with my question on foaming! I appreciate all the feed back. My next go around will be engine related so get ready.
Capt. Pete |
Posted By: jon4pres
Date Posted: May-23-2008 at 3:42pm
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I did not refoam mine when I redid it. I decided that there was no way to keep it completly dry in there. For reinforcement I glassed in some lumber to help give me a place to attach the plywood floor too.
I have been very happy with mine and have not noticed it being any louder or hollow sounding. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1801&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980 - 82 2001 jon4pres@gmail.com Fort Scott Kansas |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-23-2008 at 7:34pm
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I thought about it for a while and if you take some 3/4 ply and build 2 boxes approximately 1x2x3 square fill one with foam and one without foam and with not knowing which has the foam, and jump up and down on them with your body weight, will you know the one with the foam? and if you make them both air tight and throw them in the lake will they sink???this all of course after you glass all the corners and epoxy both sides.
what would your answer be? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: May-23-2008 at 7:46pm
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I say both would float and you would be able to pick the 1 with foam! ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-23-2008 at 9:00pm
Yes you could tell the one with the foam only because it will float lower in the water. The foam is 2lb per cu. ft. and will add to the weight of the box. I'll still say that the foam isn't needed as a structural component of the hull. Even though we have all seen some of the "engineering marvels" of CC through the years, I'd hate to think they counted on the 2lb density foam. 2lb is not a structural foam. The Whaler construction example is totally different. It is a closely spaced inner and outer skin both acting as tension or compression members. It's hull was engineered as a system. Someone else besides Tim (was it you Greg?) mentioned months ago about the oil canning of the hull while walking in it stripped. You really need to consider that the PSI of a persons foot is a lot more than the hull sees sitting or running over the waves. The surface area of the hull really spreads out the boats weight. We also haven't heard (maybe someone else has) about a older CC with soggy shot foam with absolutely no structure left causing a hull to come apart. Gel cracking yes but is it from bad foam or rotten stringers? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-23-2008 at 9:05pm
Pete, don't worry about it. This is the way we talk all the time!! We get some pretty good conversations going. Nothing lately requiring the sites administrator to step in!! Even some of our more "verbal" members have been pretty quiet lately too. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: May-23-2008 at 9:24pm
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Pete, Eric said jump up and down on both boxes. I say the 1 with foam will be easy to pick out...by more than the sound. I'd even go so far as to say that whatever exact weight dropped from a given height that would break the empty box would not break the foam filled box. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-23-2008 at 11:19pm
Pete, when the hull would deform, it would not take my full weight to do so- it didnt take much pressure to oilcan at all, actually. This was right in the area of the hull offcenter from the keel where the water would break on the hull when on plane. I really think that without the support of the foam, the handling of the boat would have been affected. My Tique has no such tendency, btw. Probably due to a thicker hull and narrower beam. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-23-2008 at 11:23pm
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Greg, I did see that Eric mentioned jumping up and down on the boxes but felt he was talking about doing it in the water. Eric - In the water? I don't think you could tell. a 2' X 3' piece of 3/4 ply is pretty stiff.
Now, as far as the drop test, I think we could use the pumpkin patch for it. What do you think? I'll pitch in for the crane! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 80 Ski-Tique
Date Posted: May-23-2008 at 11:29pm
| I think with the box that small and using 3/4 ply it would be more dificult to tell, but build the same box and use 1/4" ply and even a blind man could tell. The less strength you have to begin with, the more difference you can tell with the foam. A Correct Craft is not underbuilt, don't get me wrong, but it is not overbuilt by any stretch of the imagination. That's why they are comparitivily light to many boats their size. I am sure there are better ways to do it but who am I to argue with nautical engineers. I have the floor out of mine right now and I must say the hull is not very stiff without the foam in there, the boat even with the soggy foam felt more solid than it does now. I even took it out once over the winter without the foam and floor in it, granted the floor adds a lot of structure also but mine had separated all the way around anyways, and the boat flexed and twisted so much that I made my mind up then to put the foam back and glass the floor in better than it was. Just my two cents. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-23-2008 at 11:45pm
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Alright, I'll give in and go along with the foam being part of the engineering CC did!!
I remember I had a friend with a 14' Shell Lake with I think a 60 outboard on it. This was the very early days of glass. The hull bottom was so thin that on real sunny days you could see through it to the lake bottom. Talk about flexing when going over rough water! It was actually scary! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: May-24-2008 at 12:36am
Pete, when the patch is finished you can drop the whole crane in there...it'll bounce!  ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: May-24-2008 at 12:37am
Besides...it's original?!!?  ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-24-2008 at 2:19pm
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so if you dont use the foam, can you deviate from the masterplan and add more ribbing to ensure the floor doesnt "oil can"?, with this information it is possible to re-inforce the floors as if no foam was needed? ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: 80 Ski-Tique
Date Posted: May-25-2008 at 10:36pm
| Yes, which I thought about doing but if the boat sinks, it's going all the way to the bottom. It also takes the coast guard rating away too. I wanted to use the space under my floor for a ski locker but after adding ribbing back in there wouldn't be enough room anyways. So I figured the best thing and least time and money consuming thing to do was just refoam it. |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: May-25-2008 at 11:16pm
I'm with Andy on this. Our lake is down and the black forest is just under the surface in places. The lake has been so much quieter this holiday w/e than normal, the talk on the radio is be super careful...if you go out, and I've said before that I think the pumpkin would be a more than adequate anchor. 
Not that I'm a fatalist?!!? LOL ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: May-27-2008 at 12:07pm
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All this talk about foam or not to foam. Either way, I think the boat will survive. Basically, i agree that the foam is not a structural element other than supporting the original fiberglass floor. But if you plywood, that is a moot point. So, to foam or not to foam boils down to a few questions:
1. Do you want the floation? 2. Do you want the sound deadening qaulities? Yes, the bottom of the hull will flex a bit, but the fiberglass laminate can handle it, so no worries there. And to all those that are worried about water logged foam again...modern foam does NOT SOAK UP WATER! Now, let's open up another can of worms. The wood stringers are not really structural either and the boat will stay together with out them....but, the engine might end up against the transom. Evidence of this is that when is the last time you heard of boat breaking in half or coming apart due to rotten stringers? And...if you remove the gelcoat from the fiberglass laminate, you can shine a light through it no problem. So, if you scratch off the gelcoat on the keel and then can see daylight, not necessarily a big deal. ------------- |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-27-2008 at 12:13pm
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so David, would you use it or not? remember the new foams wont soak foam but will dam the water in the areas you don want it too.
the boats will also float with air tight pockets and if they do leak it will be hours, ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: May-27-2008 at 12:27pm
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Yes, I would foam due to the reasons stated early on in this thread. I agree, the foam will dam the water, but only small amounts of water at the boundary layer. If the stringers are well glassed, this would not be much of an issue. Also, I find it hard to believe that one could make the under floor area totally water tight over the long run. I also understand you point about an airtight space, but I doubt the USCG allows such a concept.
Now, lets look at it another way, if you do not foam, water can get in, stay in and theoretically fill up the cavity. Slooshing around at will. Not a pretty thought. If there is foam in the cavity, only a minor amount of water can get in. Just a spure of the moment thought. Now, for a lake boat, if no foam and it sinks. No big deal, just swim to shore. ------------- |
Posted By: lancef
Date Posted: May-27-2008 at 6:33pm
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My posting history does not suggest a lot of knowledge but I do have some input for you as I am in the middle of rebuilding my 83 natique. I am going to post about it when I get a chance but have been way to busy working on it to post anything.
Anyways, I used the (2) 5 gallon bucket 4lb foam kit from uscomposites.com several weeks ago and would deffinetly have to recommend using the foam. It amazed me how strong it was after it cured. You can jump up and down anywhere on the foam (I am 200lbs.) and nothing gives or budges (w/out fiberglass or wood on top.) It also sticks to the walls and stringers better than any glue so it seems that it kind of holds everything together nicely. Now getting a smooth surface was definetly not fun. I used a grinder, belt sander and a 8" polisher/sander and the stuff gets EVERYWHERE. Basicaly if you are willing to spend the money and do the time, I think you will not regret it. FYI: I ended up needing 2 cans of Great Stuff in the end to fill a few low spots as the 10 gallons was just enough (Would have been more than enough if pooored a little better.) |
Posted By: 80 Ski-Tique
Date Posted: May-27-2008 at 11:11pm
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Now, for a lake boat, if no foam and it sinks. No big deal, just swim to shore.[/QUOTE] I don't know about you but it's a big deal to me if my boat is sitting on bottom of the lake in 60' of water. I could recover it if it was floating on the surface but not on the bottom. Maybe that's just me since I don't have insurance on mine. |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: May-28-2008 at 11:48am
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I hear you, just a bit of dry humor (or lack thereof) on my part. ------------- |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: May-28-2008 at 11:58am
THE least time and money is to throw a double-armfull of pool noodles under the new floor. They wont trap water, let air circuilate and would make a flooded boat level and recoverable, it doesn't have to float like a Bwhaler cut in half. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-28-2008 at 12:00pm
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what does the USCG allow for aluminum rowboats or Kayaks?
80, you dont want a boat after it sinks, maybe just the bare hull, my smart-ass buddy bought a sunk Caliari, and bragged what a deal he got, it is all Europeon wiring, and i dont care where you cut a wire on the boat, water snuck up the wires and corroded every single one of them....who's laughing now? 80 btw, get some collision or liability insurance on the boat in case you chop off a skiers leg...... ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: 80 Ski-Tique
Date Posted: May-28-2008 at 12:12pm
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I can't speak for all aluminum john boats but ours had foam under the bench seats. I know what your saying but I am capable of rewiring and rebuilding motor and trans. if needed be. I could always send the trans. to you if that was the case I had insurance on it when I bought it but the insurance premiums after two or three years were more than I paid for the boat when I bought it. It's a risk I decided to take, and I am very experienced on the water and very unlikely to hurt someone from carelessness. If my skier gets hit with anything it most likely going to be the idiots on jet ski's and I do the best I can to avoid that.
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Posted By: David F
Date Posted: May-28-2008 at 12:56pm
Has anyone tested the flotation of a boat filled with pool noodles under the floor? Anyone want to go first? ------------- |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-28-2008 at 3:21pm
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what if you hit a submerged rock and the sue happy passenger goes through the window? it happens....i have to put the phrase in, I myself have been boating for 20 some years and went into a dead stop from 52mph last year on a sand bar, the bodies kept going, no major injuries..couple of bumps and bruises, couldve been worse lol ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-28-2008 at 3:45pm
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80, I'll back up the other comments regarding having insurance. It's really not smart. You can be the most carefull driver in the world but it's the other guy you need to worry about. In or court system, bad things do happen and it may not be your fault! At least get the min. liability. Tack it on to a homeowners or auto policy. My 3 boats cost me about $350 a year for the liability. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 80 Ski-Tique
Date Posted: May-29-2008 at 12:26am
| Well it is the difference of me going to the lake or not. For whatever reason my insurance on my one boat is close to 2K a year. I totally understand what you guys are saying but first of all I don't bring sue happy people on my boat and second we have never had an accident on the water, and yes I know that doesn't mean I won't but like I said it unfortunately is the difference of me using my boat or staying at home and looking at it. In over 60 years of my immediate family's boating we have fortunately never had any accident to speak of. Mainly because we were taught all the navigational rules and laws and codes of conduct before we were allowed to drive. If everyone was brought up this way we wouldn't have any accidents to speak of. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-29-2008 at 8:52am
The "sue happy" people usually aren't the ones in your boat but that does happen as well. The 2K sounds like you were talking to the wrong company. I'm just urging you to look into it again. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-29-2008 at 10:27am
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if someone can sue, they will no matter who it is. ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: May-29-2008 at 10:50am
Agreed 100%. Ive never had an accident on the water either, nor has anyone in my family- but boat insurance is truly the definition of "cheap insurance". You can get a safe amount of liability insurance (I consider 100k/300k a minumum) for $200-300/yr by going through a company that knows ski boats. Larger companies who dont know better see the size vs. horsepower and jack up the rates. Try Global Marine (endorsed by USA Waterski), Ski Safe, or BoatUS. ------------- |
Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: May-29-2008 at 12:00pm
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Ditto on the insurance.
Most 'other' skiboats only have a few strips of 2x4 looking strips of foam strapped to the hull with fglass and also under the gunnel, and they meet level-flotation rules. I believe full-foam under the floor is a massive amout of flotation, and that entire volume is not critical to make the boat recoverable, nor level. ------------- "There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing." River Rat to Mole |
Posted By: backfoot100
Date Posted: May-29-2008 at 5:48pm
WOW!!!!! I've never heard of boat insurance being that expensive. I have full coverage on my boat 100K/300K and pay a little under $350/yr. That's in FL. I paid about the same in WI so I know it isn't just here. You definitely gotta shop around. ------------- When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded. Eddie |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-29-2008 at 6:17pm
What happens if you hit a floating rock?
$2k for boat insurance??? WOW! We're right in line with the $2-300 per year. ------------- |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: May-30-2008 at 10:07am
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HW, your rocks float up in the windy city? i did see a show on Cleveland's river catching fire and it also said a river up in Chicago caught fire too from being so polluted ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: jdkenyon
Date Posted: May-30-2008 at 2:53pm
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I must be lucky, our boat insurance only added $100 to the yearly cost. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1955 - 94 Ski Nautique |
Posted By: captpete
Date Posted: June-09-2008 at 8:42pm
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O.K. it is done. Here is what I did. After removing the foam I saved it and cut it into 12" blocks after drying it. Each block was labeled as to its location in the hull. After triple layering the hull with glass and up the sides 6" I retrofit the foam blocks with a 1x6 set into it at the proper depth. these were each glassed into place. Using 1/2" BC plywood I fit the new floor boards (resin coated) and screwed them into place using ss screws. These boards were then glassed in place with two layers of cloth and a third layer along the seams where the sides meet the floor. As a famous Indian philosopher once said, "Elephants can fornicate on it" Next task before a new carpet is going to be cleaning the engine and dressing it up - paint chrome, ss lines, etc. - I did mention it runs good; 60lb. oil pressure, good compression and with 824 hours on it I really do not think it need anything else. By the way, how easy is it to install electronic ignition? And, you can look for me at the reunion in Lake George in Sept. - I should have the boat done by then!
Peter |