exhaust hose 85 nautique
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10678
Printed Date: November-17-2024 at 3:34pm
Topic: exhaust hose 85 nautique
Posted By: rhschnauss
Subject: exhaust hose 85 nautique
Date Posted: June-02-2008 at 4:25am
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I was wondering what size diameter exhaust hose i needed for an 85 nautique with the 351 ford engine. It has a 3" exhaust riser outlet, does this mean 3" id hose or bigger? I have noticed you can go many different sizes, ie 3, 3 1/4, 3 1/2 etc. ------------- rhschnauss |
Replies:
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: June-02-2008 at 11:13am
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3 inch ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: tjeffery72Mus.
Date Posted: June-02-2008 at 11:26pm
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3 inch, make sure you buy the right hose, Make sure!!!! ------------- The Guy. |
Posted By: rhschnauss
Date Posted: June-03-2008 at 10:24pm
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3" corrugated right? I almost bought hardwall. ------------- rhschnauss |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: June-03-2008 at 11:36pm
You need the corrugated if you have a bend to make, but either way you need wire reinforced wet marine exhaust hose. You probably already knew that, but the cheap stuff can burn through and sink your baby! ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
rhschnauss wrote:Posted By: rhschnauss
Date Posted: June-04-2008 at 12:31am
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so the plastic dryer vent hose I bought wont work? LOL ------------- rhschnauss |
Posted By: rhschnauss
Date Posted: June-04-2008 at 12:32am
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has anyone done the section uder the gas tank. I think I can do it without taking out the gas tank, but im not sure. any ideas. ------------- rhschnauss |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: June-04-2008 at 12:38am
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It can be done from the front but it sucks, I bought 3 feet of the hardwall and 6 feet of the corrugated, the hardwall works fine from the muffler to the thruhull and is cheaper. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: June-04-2008 at 12:59am
It does...knees, nuckles, and neck! LOL (just for you John?!!?) ROFL ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-04-2008 at 7:22am
Roy, In the long run you are better off pulling the tank. You don't need to completely remove it from the boat but just to the point that you can slide it from side to side to get back to the through hulls at the transom. By the time you struggle with trying to work around it, you could have the tank loose. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: wakesurfer
Date Posted: June-23-2008 at 1:01am
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Well. I got all working right after my exhaust manifold leak and the top end rebuild... except my exhaust hoses have both sprung several leaks and it appears the only way to get the hoses out is to take up the back section of the floor.. as one of the mufflers is damaged. anyone have any project advise? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-23-2008 at 7:42am
I'd consider getting rid of the fiberglass mufflers. They have always been on the weak side and have never done much as far as sound. Maybe a couple db's is all! You can usually push new hose in from the front under the floor. The gas tank will need to come out. If you do want to put the mufflers back in, they will need to come out and patched - fiberglass and epoxy. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: wakesurfer
Date Posted: June-23-2008 at 4:09pm
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Sounds good.
The only way to get the mufflers out appears to be either take up (cut) the floor or smash them (mufflers) to pieces as they will not make it through the small outlet by the engine. Any advise? So, you suggest db's --- is that double wall pipe? What is the best way to join the db's w the bending corrarated pipe? I suppose skidim is the best way to go? --- Thanks for all your help 8122 as you have been there this during this entire episode! Famous last quote of mine before I bought the boat: " the last thing I want is a project boat as I have 2 already." Well, I guesse I am vexed. Cheers for the wicked. jamie |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-23-2008 at 4:16pm
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doesn't your rear floor pannel lift out once you remove a couple screws they will have the heads buried in the carpet? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: shawnmc
Date Posted: June-23-2008 at 4:33pm
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pete,
was the 83 also fiberglass. There is a noticeable difference between the sound of my dad's 83 vs my 86. I replaced the exhaust hose on the starboard side and mine ran into the fiberglass. Are you saying when you change it to run the corrugated pipe all the way out to the exhaust tips? P.S. Changing that small section was also a PITA. Can't imagine the whole run! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-23-2008 at 8:05pm
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Jamie, - db's as in decibels or the sound level.
Shawn, The glass mufflers were started in the early 70's. Before that, it was hose all the way or straight sections of copper tubing. Today with the price of copper, I think the hose would be cheaper and it isn't that cheap!!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: June-23-2008 at 10:46pm
I'd like to hear some more about that if you don't mind. One of the boats has the glass mufflers and one doesn't? Which one bothers the neighbors?  ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: shawnmc
Date Posted: June-24-2008 at 1:25am
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greg,
i will have to check but i think they both have glass. they are both stock. His boat just sounds more hot rod. It always has. I will check and get back to you. |
Posted By: 80 Ski-Tique
Date Posted: June-26-2008 at 1:38am
| Yeah I agree, lose the mufflers. Mine were pretty banged up so I tossed them and ran pipe the whole length. It actually picked up almost 4 m.ph. on the top end! It is louder but only noticable when going fast. At idle when the tips are underwater there is no difference. Sounds awesome, Dozi's eat yer heart out! |
Posted By: wakesurfer
Date Posted: June-27-2008 at 4:38pm
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Once again yall save the day... Thanks for all the tips!! 1. Whats the best way to join the straight pipe or hoses together? So, the question is straight pipe or straight tubing? Cost? Pipe = aluminum or stainless? In addition, I now have to cut the floor piece out as the PO floored the boat without anyway to open a hatch (no hatch)to access the exhaust. I tried to remove the hose from the back and pull from the front, yet the hose in the back seems absolutley fused to the rear exhaust port and the mufflers are pinched in tight as heck with trash and muck. Can someone PLEASE send me a few pictures of what the back portion of the floor should look like? Cheers. Jamie |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: June-27-2008 at 4:47pm
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the whole center sectin of the floor behind the motor box should lift up and out once you remove the screws holding it dwon. the heads to the screws will be burried in the carpet and you may not see tham and have to feel for them. But lift the motor box and you should be able to see where the floor is split right on top of the stringers behind the motor because it came from the factory that way now if someone has replaced the floor and did it not orginal then you might have issues but I doubt it is done that way you are just not looking close enough but the floor comes out from the rear of the motor all the way back to gas tank. Might have to lift the carpet up, might have to cut the seems if it's been replaced and done as one piece look where i told you for the seem in the floor at the back of the motor and you'll see what I am talking about. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-27-2008 at 4:50pm
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You want tubing. IIRC, tubing is sized by OD, pipe is sized by ID. Hose is sized by ID, so it will match the size of tubing. Use a short section of tubing to connect 2 hoses, or a short section of hose to connect 2 tubes. Clear? SS is better than AL, but more expensive.
I would think that youre correct- removing the floor will make things much easier. Having the gas tank out helps a lot too. The exhaust should be connected to the tips with 2 hose clamps per side, so you'll need to loosen them to get everything out. When reassembling, be sure to use 2 hose clamps at every connection- its a safety (USCG) requirement. ------------- |
Posted By: wakesurfer
Date Posted: June-27-2008 at 9:09pm
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thanks.
the floor is one piece. PO did a good job. no seams - must cut. here we go. |
Posted By: wakesurfer
Date Posted: June-28-2008 at 1:09am
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the floor was fiberglassed in and the screws were buried under carpet and fiberglass! got it all out. cleaned and ready to go. wondering what the best thing thing to run and if I can get these parts at the local auto zone? I was thinking to take the busted mufflers to a muffler shop and see if they can replicate them yet in aluminum... will alum get to hot? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-28-2008 at 9:50am
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Jamie, I would stay away from the aluminum. Unless anodized, you would be seeing lots of corrosion. (white rust) Repair the existing mufflers (you won't find new that will fit) or run hose all the way. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: wakesurfer
Date Posted: June-29-2008 at 2:10am
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Researched a bit, and alum is a NO GO. I think I am going to just order one piece of 3inch wire reinforced exhaust hose from skidim for each side. The run is aprox 6ft5inch - I will get two sections of 7ft. What product exactly is the best for a short bend then the longer run to the port? If I use two hoses, how to join them? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-29-2008 at 11:06am
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Jamie, If you can't make the bend with the hose (corrugated hose has a tighter bend radius than hard wall but is slightly more restrictive), then you may need elbows. Double hose clamps for the connections. What hose was in it making the bend? Skidim may not have the corrugated. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-29-2008 at 11:46am
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I would use the corrugated (wire reinforced) hose for the full length. It will make the bends, no elbows necessary. SkiDIM sells it. If you decide to use 2 pieces of hose, take my recommendation from above and join them with a short section of tubing. 3" (OD) tubing will match 3" (ID) hose.
Pete, what do you mean by this?
Are you referring only to a tight bend radius being more restrictive than a larger one? ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-29-2008 at 12:05pm
Tim, It's the slight corrugations on the inside of the hose. The hard wall has a smooth ID. The restriction is slight but if you look at the flow/pressure charts it is there. Although a lot less pressure, a good example of this, is the flex heat ducting you are finding these days (it's cheap and quick). To get the same volume of air at the same static pressure through the flex, you need to go one size larger dia. than using galv. ducting. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: wakesurfer
Date Posted: June-29-2008 at 12:38pm
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Once again yall have walked me through a worthy project. O.k. I think I got it worked out. Yet, one thing worth asking everyone is do the mufflers work to a certain degree to warrant the extra cost? Are the newer mufflers more effective than say the old blue fiberglass ones I pulled out? I priced the project w the muffler, and it seems to be 40.00 more for each side, 80 to 90 total cost more for the project. Due to the fact that 7 feet of hose is so expensive! Will I notice the difference in engine noise reduction? Off to Lowes to get the floor supplies! |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-29-2008 at 1:35pm
Pete, I thought thats what you might have been thinking- but the corrugated stuff (both 3" on the Tique and 3.5" on my '90) that Ive installed recently are corrugated on the outside only- the inside is smooth, just like the hardwall. This was a question I asked before purchasing- I wouldnt stand for a loss of flow! ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-29-2008 at 3:50pm
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Tim, I certainly understand you wouldn't want any losses in flow and glad to here you found a hose with the smooth ID. It must be a intermediate hose between the hard wall and the corrugated I've come across. Speaking of flow, wait until you get up to my age!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: rhschnauss
Date Posted: June-29-2008 at 9:22pm
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I have a pinhole leak where the two halves of the muffler were fitted together with some sort of sealing bead of caulk. What kinda caulk should I use to reseal the bead? ------------- rhschnauss |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-29-2008 at 9:46pm
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Roy, First I would try to pull it apart so you can reseal the whole joint. If one spot is bad, chances are the rest of the joint is ready to go. Are you sure it's caulked? For caulking, I would go for the 3M 5200 adhesive sealant. It sticks to almost anything and is rated at 190 degrees so I feel it would handle the heat.
Has the boat ever overheated? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: June-29-2008 at 11:43pm
I dunno Pete- both hoses were advertised as regular corrugated hose, and they came from different sources (SkiDIM and White Lake). ------------- |
Posted By: rhschnauss
Date Posted: June-29-2008 at 11:59pm
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It overheated once about 10 years ago which resulted in collapsed exhaust hose. This round the rear hose past the mufflers was bad so I just decided to do it all. The muffler seems to be 2 halves that are slid together and a brown sealant was used where they slide into each other. Im thinking 5200 as well. ------------- rhschnauss |
Posted By: oledawg
Date Posted: May-17-2009 at 4:00pm
Good info in this post, I am getting ready to do the "lose the mufflers, run straight pipes" thing on my 87 454 PCM Riviera. Will advise as to what I run into!  ------------- "To profit from good advice requires more wisdom than to give it" |
Posted By: oledawg
Date Posted: May-19-2009 at 9:45am
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AGGGGGHHHHHH! Not an easy thing to get those mufflers off and out! After all of the removal of stuff to get to the front of them, and following all of the good advice on breaking them loose from the hose, all I managed to do is "break" them, yes they are actually fiberglass, not metal, so today the cutter is going to work to just cut them out and then pull the remaining pieces out of the hose. Got to take the gas tank out, or at least move it, to get at the rear. Probably should repack the driveshaft and rudder while I have all of this stuff out of the way, huh. ------------- "To profit from good advice requires more wisdom than to give it" |