Prop puller
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10725
Printed Date: April-08-2025 at 10:52pm
Topic: Prop puller
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Subject: Prop puller
Date Posted: June-04-2008 at 10:04pm
Doc, Last fall, I know you had asked for some better pictures of the puller I made but it was up north at the time. I brought it home with me so here it is. It's basically like the one Eric made but since I wanted as equal a pull all around the prop hub as possible, I made the section behind the prop a double "C" shape. The cut outs from making the washers into the "C" shape are welded onto the mating piece. You will also see that I drilled the bolt pattern for both using 3 bolts for a 3 blade prop as well as 4 bolts for a 4 blade. The center set screw is a V point to fit into the center drilled hole in the end of the prop shaft.

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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Replies:
Posted By: boat dr
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 1:20am
Pete as usual a fine piece of fabrication.
But I would not expect anything less from you.............Boat dr
------------- boat dr
/diaries/details.asp?ID=4631 - 1949 Dart
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1533 - 1964 American Skier
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Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 1:39am
Hey Pete....what would you charge build me one of those to fit a 1 1/8" shaft?
------------- 95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier
Former boats:
88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II
59 Chris Craft Capri (woody)
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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 1:47am
Pete, that's pretty slick, but I don't see any servos or hydrolic rams?!!? I hope you're not going to tell us that a wrench is needed?!!?
Man...not even 1 push button on that thing.
------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold
"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO
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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 1:51am
You got it Brian! He should have have 4 of those 'push buttons'. One to open it, one to close it, and 1 each for 1" & 1 1/8ths shafts!!!
------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold
"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO
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Posted By: Kristof
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 8:21am
I'll take one please!
Pete, let's start a group buy on this fine piece of equipment!
------------- https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50377&title=what-have-i-been-up-to-on-my-89-2001" rel="nofollow - My '89 SN2001
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 8:46am
Guys, I'd love to make them but I'm really not set up to make a bunch of them or even a couple of them. I seem to never have enough time for my own projects. We've seen a few of projects like this here on site that never seem to get off the ground so I don't want to go that route. To make them in any quantities, the best way is to have a job shop machine shop run them. I know it doesn't look very complicated and it isn't but there are some hours involved in making it. If someone knew a high school student looking for a metal shop project, it would be a good one!
I certainly appreciate the compliments, thanks.
BTW, Eric sorry I didn't put a big bolt in the center for a impact wrench! Actually, the pull is so even on the prop that I'm always surprised that it really doesn't take much to pop a prop.
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: uk1979
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 9:09am
Peter
Nice Job, something else I need to make on my Myford is it resting on what we call Tulipwood ( American Poplar)
Roger.
------------- Lets have a go 56 Starflite 77 SN 78 SN 80 BFN
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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 10:13am
I knew we thought alike, i got pricing on making 10 of them and it wasnt to bad with someone else making them. if there was more interest i would pursue the issue
remeber pete, im one ahead of you cause mine is short enough to remove the coupling ha ha ha ha lol nice job though
------------- "the things you own will start to own you"
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 10:16am
Rodger, Good call on the Poplar! To make more room in my dinning room, I ripped out a bay window seat, reframed the floor out to into the window bay and built a new wall under the window. The Poplar is for the new window sill. Painted of coarse! Cheap, machines nice and paints well.
When I was taking the picture, it crossed my mind and I wondered if you or Greg would pick up on the wood!!!!
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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 10:20am
Pete, is that the only one you use, or is it for just the problem jobs?
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 10:26am
Riley wrote:
Pete, is that the only one you use, or is it for just the problem jobs? |
Bruce, It's the only one I use. I really never liked the "C" clamp type. Way back when I was working summers at the marina I always had problems with the shops "C" clamp type. I think someone used a impact wrench on it at one time! The only nice thing about them is they are quick to put on.
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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 10:30am
Pete, what marina? skipper buds?? i dont leave home without an impact. Im built for speed
------------- "the things you own will start to own you"
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Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 10:38am
8122pbrainard wrote:
When I was taking the picture, it crossed my mind and I wondered if you or Greg would pick up on the wood!!!! |
I saw it Pete and am very familiar with it, but I was too busy giving you a ration! LOL Poplar was the paint grade minimum in my dad's old shop, red oak was the base for stain.
Tulipwood looks a little different in my shop... http://www.exotichardwoods-southamerica.com/tulipwood.htm - Brazilian Tulipwood
------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold
"It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO
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Posted By: Kristof
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 11:21am
Pete,
I have a friend who is a teacher at a technical high school, so it would make a good project for his students... Could you send me the specs on your prop puller?
Thanks,
Kristof
------------- https://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=50377&title=what-have-i-been-up-to-on-my-89-2001" rel="nofollow - My '89 SN2001
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Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 11:35am
BuffaloBFN wrote:
8122pbrainard wrote:
When I was taking the picture, it crossed my mind and I wondered if you or Greg would pick up on the wood!!!! |
I saw it Pete and am very familiar with it, but I was too busy giving you a ration! LOL Poplar was the paint grade minimum in my dad's old shop, red oak was the base for stain.
Tulipwood looks a little different in my shop... http://www.exotichardwoods-southamerica.com/tulipwood.htm - Brazilian Tulipwood |
Poplar has become popular for interior trim in Maine during the past 10 years. I went to college for Forestry in the 70's and it was a useless tree back then.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 12:01pm
eric lavine wrote:
Pete, what marina? skipper buds?? |
Eric, You must do Skipper Buds tranmissions! I avoid nothern Illinois and southern Wisconsin boating when ever possible so even though I have heard of Skipper Buds, I've never dealt with them. All my summers before having to go out and get a big job were spent in northern Wisconsin so I worked at Watercraft Sales from 68 to 73. I remember the first mechanic job they threw at me was putting in dogs and gears in a small outboard lower unit. That was back when it was a engineers idea of a split case gasket was a piece of thread set into aviation gasket compound - It didn't leak!! My last 3 years were pretty much the repair and refinishing of customers wood boats. Some glass too. Always fun to run out and check out the babes coming in to the gas pier too!!!
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 12:06pm
Kristoff, I'll get you some basic dimensions.
Bruce, In the midwest, the Poplar has always been used for paper/pulp. I think it still is for the high end paper.
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64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 2:14pm
I was up there 3 times in one month for 3 different boats, on one the customer let me stay at his couple million dollar house and i rebuilt the trans in his basement, the bad part is that it was rack stored and I pulled the trans in the rack it was a 38" outer limits with arnesons, he did send me 100.00 tip which was nice.....thats only cause i slid it thru under warranty and it was really only low on oil. i remember being stuck on that GD bridge over the gravel pit for 3 hours
------------- "the things you own will start to own you"
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Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 3:28pm
eric lavine wrote:
I knew we thought alike, i got pricing on making 10 of them and it wasnt to bad with someone else making them. if there was more interest i would pursue the issue
remeber pete, im one ahead of you cause mine is short enough to remove the coupling ha ha ha ha lol nice job though |
Erice if you can get 10 of them made put my name on one please.
------------- 95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier
Former boats:
88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II
59 Chris Craft Capri (woody)
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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 3:30pm
no matter what the price, right? lol
------------- "the things you own will start to own you"
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Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 3:35pm
My neighbor used to make those....
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Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 4:06pm
eric lavine wrote:
no matter what the price, right? lol |
Well, the price on a C-clamp type is anywhere from $80.00 to $120.00. From the looks of Pete's puller, IMHO, it's a much better design and would give a straighter pull (and less likely to damage anything). So I think it would be worth more. What was the price you were quoted for the 10 (all joking aside)?
------------- 95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier
Former boats:
88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II
59 Chris Craft Capri (woody)
|
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 4:17pm
I probably will have plate laser cut to size making it economical and then have the machinist cnc them, I was thinking 80 to 100 apiece, i will make them so they can easily pull the coupling also, its hard trying to find the time to do this stuff, Im setting up a webstore which is been in process for months and trying to cut deals with suppliers for good pricing, the store is done and now i need to start loading info, my next quest will be affordable prop shafts and couplings
------------- "the things you own will start to own you"
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Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 5:49pm
Eric-
Typically you can only go to 1/4" with laser. Waterjet is your next best bet. Waterjet is a bit more expensive though.
When my neighbor was making these they bought 3" stock and sliced them and then machined them.
Tim
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-05-2008 at 6:56pm
behindpropeller wrote:
Eric-
Typically you can only go to 1/4" with laser. Waterjet is your next best bet. Waterjet is a bit more expensive though.
When my neighbor was making these they bought 3" stock and sliced them and then machined them.
Tim |
Tim, That really isn't true regarding the thickness on a laser. It all depends on the wattage. We have 3 lasers in our short run fab division and the big one will do 3/8" stainless and 7/16" mild steel. For up to 3/4" our plasma is the way to go. Waterjet is expensive (high maintenance) and is usually used for more exotic materials.
The laser is the way to go because of the nice clean cut. The plate's OD can then just be cleaned up abrasively with a belt sander and the holes drilled. No machining of the faces needed. For the "C" shaped back plates I used standard heavy plain steel fender washers. They too could be fixtured and the C's cut out on the laser.
Fender washer from McMaster: Part # 91117A252
1.063" ID
3.5" OD
.234 min. thickness
.266" max thickness
$2.89 each
I wish I had access to the equipment!!
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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
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Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Date Posted: June-06-2008 at 12:38pm
So Eric is this thing a GO?
------------- 95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier
Former boats:
88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II
59 Chris Craft Capri (woody)
|
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-06-2008 at 11:22pm
Kristof wrote:
Pete,
I have a friend who is a teacher at a technical high school, so it would make a good project for his students... Could you send me the specs on your prop puller?
Thanks,
Kristof |
Kristof, Here's some more details on the puller:
Rough OD (ether end plate) - 3" to 3.5"
Bolt hole centers - 2.25"
End plate 3/8" thick
I used 3/8" fine thread bolts and some more dimensions are in my other post on the "C" washers I used.
This and a picture is all he should need to make one.
Sorry I didn't convert to metric this time!!
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54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete <
|
Posted By: behindpropeller
Date Posted: June-07-2008 at 12:40am
8122pbrainard wrote:
behindpropeller wrote:
Eric-
Typically you can only go to 1/4" with laser. Waterjet is your next best bet. Waterjet is a bit more expensive though.
When my neighbor was making these they bought 3" stock and sliced them and then machined them.
Tim |
Tim, That really isn't true regarding the thickness on a laser. It all depends on the wattage. We have 3 lasers in our short run fab division and the big one will do 3/8" stainless and 7/16" mild steel. For up to 3/4" our plasma is the way to go. Waterjet is expensive (high maintenance) and is usually used for more exotic materials.
The laser is the way to go because of the nice clean cut. The plate's OD can then just be cleaned up abrasively with a belt sander and the holes drilled. No machining of the faces needed. For the "C" shaped back plates I used standard heavy plain steel fender washers. They too could be fixtured and the C's cut out on the laser.
Fender washer from McMaster: Part # 91117A252
1.063" ID
3.5" OD
.234 min. thickness
.266" max thickness
$2.89 each
I wish I had access to the equipment!! |
Pete-
I know that and I also know who most of the laser cutters are in the area.
Tim
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Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: June-07-2008 at 10:28am
possibly today, my machinist is suppose to stop by and make some drawings, alot of good ideas posted
it is a go Nutty, its a slow process
------------- "the things you own will start to own you"
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Posted By: nuttyskier2002
Date Posted: June-07-2008 at 5:00pm
I'm all in Eric. Please remember that I need one to fit a 1 1/8" shaft. Will that raise the cost much? Do you need anything down? Not a problem if you do. Thanks!
Brian
------------- 95 Malibu Echelon w/Mercruiser 350 Magnum Skier
Former boats:
88 Ski Centurion Tru Trac II
59 Chris Craft Capri (woody)
|
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: June-08-2008 at 12:25am
actually they could all be opened to 1.125 and really wont make a difference and they will fit both 1' and 1.125
this might take a while, but it will happen
------------- "the things you own will start to own you"
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