Trailer Repair
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10938
Printed Date: September-29-2024 at 7:18am
Topic: Trailer Repair
Posted By: mcbean7
Subject: Trailer Repair
Date Posted: June-21-2008 at 8:43pm
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Hi Guys. My bunks are in desperate need of replacement. My question is how do I get the boat off the trailer without taking it down and leaving it at the lake?
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Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-21-2008 at 8:59pm
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The procedure is in a thread some place but it's just as easy for me to repeat it as to find it!
Lower the jack stand all the way. Block the rear corners of the boat as close to the bottom as possible using concrete blocks and wood blocks. Raise the jack as much as possible. Block the keel a couple feet in front of the first cross member. Lower the jack stand. The trailer should now be free and the boat sitting on the blocks. Now you'll need a jack. Move the trailer forward as far as possible, jack the keel and relocate the blocking behind the first cross member. You may need to do this a couple of times until the trailer is completely out from under the boat. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: mcbean7
Date Posted: June-21-2008 at 9:05pm
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thx for the quick reply Pete. Will an automotive jack do the job?
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Posted By: mcbean7
Date Posted: June-21-2008 at 9:07pm
| Also, will the 8"X8"X16" concrete blocks from Home Depot be strong enough to support boat? |
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: June-21-2008 at 9:31pm
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You really Shouldn't need to pull the trailer out from under the boat to replace the bunk boards. Lift the boat up as Pete suggests, and you should be able to unbolt the bunks, and slide them out.
Be sure to put a rag, carpet, something soft on top of the blocks so you don't scratch up the boat. I never trust the cement blocks, but a lots of people use them. For just lifting the boat up to slip the bunks out, Car jack stands will work fine, if you have some that are tall enough. If not, you can sit the car jack Stand on top of some stable blocks of wood. Again, put some padding on the stand so as not to scratch up the boat. I've replaced a single bunk with two floor jacks. One under the keel, and one on the back corners. I suppose you could do this as well if you do one at a time. BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: mcbean7
Date Posted: June-21-2008 at 9:46pm
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bk-I think I like the floor jack idea better. I don't know if I can trusts cement blocks. I will replace one side at a time.
You guys are awesome...thank you so much! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-21-2008 at 10:28pm
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John and Brian, I have never had a problem with cement blocks. Way back when working at the marina we had lots of boats without trailers. I've set hundreds of boats on them. They do hold up houses too!! I also remember seeing a program on how them are made. The concrete is a extremely dry mix that is pressed in a 100 ton hydraulic press. Anyone who has had a problem with them probably used them sitting in the wrong position with the cores horizontal rather than vertical.
Who's our member that works for a pre cast concrete manufacturer?? I can't remember who it is but he may have something it add. I was going to mention that it is possible to change the bucks without pulling the trailer out but feel it's easier to pull it out. More clearance for things like drilling holes in the bunks. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: BuffaloBFN
Date Posted: June-21-2008 at 11:01pm
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John, what boat are we talking about? The bunks on my BFN would be easy to change 1 at a time with the trailer under it. My '79 SN was a different story. On those boats like that with the bend in the rail, I'd say you're asking for a long day without the boat out of the way. I had the boat out of the way when I changed the bunks for the '79, and it was still a PITA. ------------- http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=2331&sort=&pagenum=12&yrstart=1986&yrend=1990" rel="nofollow - 1988 BFN-sold "It's a Livin' Thing...What a Terrible Thing to Lose" ELO |
Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: June-21-2008 at 11:29pm
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Agreed Pete. I've seen many many boats on cement blocks. Yet, I have a hard time trusting something that I can put my foot through. Just a personal phobia I guess.
Buffalo, I almost mentioned that if you have a wishbone trailer where you have to bend the bunk boards, then you may need to pull the trailer all the way out. If you just have straight 2X6 bunks, then no need. BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: mcbean7
Date Posted: June-23-2008 at 5:07pm
I have an 88 Ski Centurion. I don't remember the manufacturer of the trailer. |
BuffaloBFN wrote:Posted By: bkhallpass
Date Posted: June-23-2008 at 5:30pm
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Typically Centurion uses 2x6 bunk boards. You should be able to slide them out if you lift the boat about 3 inches above the trailer. BKH ------------- Livin' the Dream |
Posted By: mcbean7
Date Posted: June-23-2008 at 6:09pm
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Brian-yes you are right. The bunk boards are 2X6's and are 11 feet long. It is attached with screws from the bottom up. I think I can leave trailer in place and just slide these right out.
OK Pete, I will give the cement blocks a try. One question...if I'm using 8"X8"X16" blocks, should I have the blocks sitting 16" high (so that I can stick my arms through the holes) or 8" high (so the floor closes up one side of the block)? I hope this question makes sense. lol In other words...what is the right direction to place them? You lost me with "the cores horizontal vs. vertical". |
Posted By: tullfooter
Date Posted: June-23-2008 at 6:22pm
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mcbean
The concrete blocks are strongest with the holes facing up and down, like they are stacked to build a house. Just make sure to use good blocks. I've seen old blocks that can crumble in your hands. If you were closer, you could use my system; 
Steve ------------- Play hard, life's not a trial run. '85 BFN '90 BFN White Lake, Michigan |
Posted By: mcbean7
Date Posted: June-23-2008 at 6:25pm
| Steve-thank you for the clarification. That makes sense now. By the way...nice lift. That's what I need! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-23-2008 at 7:57pm
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John, Steve (tullfooter) was the pre cast concrete guy I referred to!! Yup, stack them just like building a house. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: mcbean7
Date Posted: June-23-2008 at 8:15pm
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Sweet. Thx Pete. I'll give the concrete block method a go since I have some laying around.
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