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Amp gauge pegged

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=11223
Printed Date: September-29-2024 at 1:42pm


Topic: Amp gauge pegged
Posted By: kman
Subject: Amp gauge pegged
Date Posted: July-15-2008 at 12:06am
My amp gauge has been stuck, pegged at full charge and it is not moving. I have no radio and so the new battery is not being used other than starts. Any ideas what might cause this. My starter solenoid recently went out and it coincidentally started about that time. I replaced the solenoid, but the amp gauge is still pegged.

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Kirk

1976 Southwind 20

Eagle Mountain Lake Fort Worth



Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-15-2008 at 11:34am
Kirk, Sounds like you had a brief direct short (possibly the solenoid) that pegged the gauge and mechanically stuck it pegged to the max. I would remove the gauge and give it a light tap on the side to see if you can free up the needle. I'd say open it up but they are tough to open up because the cases and faces are held together by swaging the bezel around the case. Some people do do it but it does take lots of finesse. In side you will find a coil that magnetically pulls the needle in ether the charge/discharge positions and a spring mechanism that centers the needle to the middle zero point. If you still can't get the needle freed up, a volt meter replacement may be needed as there aren't to many amp gauges available anymore. Dependant on how particular you are to having all the gauges match, you may consider replacing all of them with a appropriate style. I ended up having to do this with my Tique.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: kman
Date Posted: July-22-2008 at 1:55am
8122pbrainard - To clarify, it stays really close to +40 and does quiver a bit in that area. It just never goes down and even stays there when the ignition is off and key is out. Sorry for the delayed response, but do you still feel the same as before? Thanks,


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Kirk

1976 Southwind 20

Eagle Mountain Lake Fort Worth


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-22-2008 at 7:42am
One of the springs that zeros the gauge is broken. You would still need to open it up which, as mentioned is tricky. Gauge repair is like watch repair at times!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-22-2008 at 11:36am
Originally posted by kman kman wrote:

8122pbrainard - To clarify, it stays really close to +40 and does quiver a bit in that area. It just never goes down and even stays there when the ignition is off and key is out. Sorry for the delayed response, but do you still feel the same as before? Thanks,


get a new gauge and call it a day

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: kman
Date Posted: July-22-2008 at 3:36pm
I think I will do a full replacement of all gauges so they match which brings another question to mind. Assuming the gauges fit the holes, do they just plug and play? Is it that simple with each one? Or is there any adjustments or things I need to be aware of. I will be replacing the speedo, tach, temp, volt, oil pressure, fuel & hour gauges. I'm thinking of the Teleflex Lido models with white background to brighten things up a bit. Any comments?


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Kirk

1976 Southwind 20

Eagle Mountain Lake Fort Worth


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: July-22-2008 at 3:39pm
plug and play as long as you get them from a CC regional distributor. If not then it's just matching up the wires one at a time, basicly the lead from the sensor, ground and then lights if it is light pretty easy if you do them one at a time.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: kman
Date Posted: July-22-2008 at 4:14pm
Gotcha. Thanks!

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Kirk

1976 Southwind 20

Eagle Mountain Lake Fort Worth


Posted By: kman
Date Posted: July-25-2008 at 6:00pm
OK - new question. I am going to replace the Teleflex "amp" gauge with a Teleflex "volt" gauge. Will it just switch out easily? I read something that said the wiring for the devices are different and I would need to redo the wiring to the gauge. Had a guy also tell me that "automotive" solenoids were a bad idea because they had drain holes in them and that was a fire hazard. Apparantly the marine solenoids are sealed to prevent this.

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Kirk

1976 Southwind 20

Eagle Mountain Lake Fort Worth


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-26-2008 at 1:48pm
Kirk, Yes, the volt meter is wired differently than the amp. Take at look in the ref. section for the PCM manual and it has a wiring diagram in it that will show you the difference. You can also do a search here as I have posted it a couple times. Sorry I'm not at my computer so I don't have it at hand!

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 74SkiNautique
Date Posted: July-30-2008 at 3:19am
I would reccomend finding another AMP meter rather than a Volt Meter. This way you know If your altinator is doing what it is suppossed to do.

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74SkiNautique


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-30-2008 at 7:58am
Originally posted by 74SkiNautique 74SkiNautique wrote:

I would reccomend finding another AMP meter rather than a Volt Meter. This way you know If your altinator is doing what it is suppossed to do.


Chris,

There are pros and cons for the use of ether a amp or volt meter and it's still up for debate. You will find some interesting threads on it with links to reference material. I happen to be pro amp but I also know there are some limiting factors. The biggest is you will not find a period correct amp meter being made anymore. Also, the highest amp meter rating you will find is a 40 amp. (not period correct) If you install a large alternator and have high electrical loads, the meter won't handle it. Then with the bigger alternator you need to worry about rather large wire sizing. The bottom line is a volt meter is easy and yes you will be able to read what to charging system is doing.

The repair of the existing Teleflex is still possible but old gauge repair is pricy and finding a working Teleflex amp meter will be tough.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: kman
Date Posted: July-30-2008 at 4:21pm
Thanks again for the info. I think I'm going to opt for the Volt meter. I am going to do a full gauge replacement so they all match. Teleflex Lido with white backgrounds this time. The black BG is hard to see during the day.

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Kirk

1976 Southwind 20

Eagle Mountain Lake Fort Worth


Posted By: 19SkiNautique85
Date Posted: August-01-2008 at 5:05am
WILL YOU BE SELLING YOUR OLD GAUGES?


Posted By: kman
Date Posted: August-01-2008 at 3:29pm
WILL YOU BE SELLING YOUR OLD GAUGES?

I suppose I could. I will let you know when I do the switch out. Might be after the summer though before I switch them all out.

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Kirk

1976 Southwind 20

Eagle Mountain Lake Fort Worth


Posted By: 62 wood
Date Posted: August-01-2008 at 6:59pm
I'd change it to a volt meter. (Just changed my 64 last year)

Differnce is a volt meter monitors the voltage in the system. It only requires a 16 or 18 ga wire connected to a switched 12 volt source.   If the alternater isnt doing it's job the voltage on the gauge will drop below 12 volts. If its doing its job it should show a reading between 12 and 14 volts.(the high depends on the voltage regulator and what accessories are on).

An amp gauge requires a 10ga, and sometimes larger wire and is wired in series to the battery. It may show a charging problem a little bit sooner, but if it ever "pukes", it will literally leave you dead in the water! (Ive had it happen)



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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1117&sort=&pagenum=6" rel="nofollow - 64 American Skier

62 Classic..
73 Ski Nautique


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: August-02-2008 at 10:54am
Steve, When you had the problem with the amp meter, did you ever check out exactly what failed? Did you check continuity or open it up? I'm just curious because a amp meter is nothing more than a shunt with a coil around it.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: kman
Date Posted: September-05-2008 at 2:48pm
OK - New question. If I replace the ammeter with a volt meter, will the voltage regulator still be needed? What role does it play in the system?

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Kirk

1976 Southwind 20

Eagle Mountain Lake Fort Worth


Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: September-05-2008 at 2:52pm
Originally posted by kman kman wrote:

OK - New question. If I replace the ammeter with a volt meter, will the voltage regulator still be needed? What role does it play in the system?


you still use the regulator but there are a couple of wiring changes at the rear of the motor that need to be made. Sorry I don't have the info in front of me to tell you exactly what changes but they are differences between the two amp vs volt.

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique


Posted By: kman
Date Posted: September-05-2008 at 3:16pm
Got the wiring diagram. Should have it on tomorrow AM. Thanks for the help!

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Kirk

1976 Southwind 20

Eagle Mountain Lake Fort Worth



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