Print Page | Close Window

88 2001 Ignition Switch playing up

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=11286
Printed Date: September-29-2024 at 9:34am


Topic: 88 2001 Ignition Switch playing up
Posted By: tjamesbo
Subject: 88 2001 Ignition Switch playing up
Date Posted: July-20-2008 at 7:14pm
My ignition switch wouldn't switch on the other day until i'd switched about 20-30 times . Today I have had a look at it by pulling the Dash facia off and inspecting / trying it and it works every time . Looks like switch is marine and waterproof so i couldn't spray any contact cleaner or WD40 in it, other than around the bit of the button that slides in and out. Anyone know if this is a sign of impending failure and where i can get a replacement Switch from The Part no on it is 45-700-P10-DD its a 20A switch
Thanks



Replies:
Posted By: The Lake
Date Posted: July-20-2008 at 7:20pm
Tjames,

I'm going to wade into this as I just diagnosed (with a lot of help from my GL friends) an ignition problem. Well actually they diagnosed the problem. I replaced my ignition but my problem was in the wire from the ignition to my coil.

A test light quickly identified the issue of a bad splice in the ignition wire.

Anyway the switch I put in came from an autoparts store; certainly not as good as the original Cole/Hersey but workable.


Chuck


-------------
Walk on Water
www.coldwater.me


http://correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=775&sort=&pagenum=3&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970 - 69 Ski Nautique


Posted By: Booty
Date Posted: July-20-2008 at 7:34pm
what kind of fuse is in the dash. I have the old tube type that the cap screws onto it from the face of the dash. These are spring loaded and somtimes I have to reach under the dash and givr the 12 volt supply from the fuze to the switch a little tug to make good contact. I usually hold the key on when I do this to start it up. Make sure you are getting 12 volts to the switch.

-------------
Booty
82,2001 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=3701 - 82,2001


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-20-2008 at 7:57pm
James, Just as Chuck (the lake) found out the hard way, don't assume it's the switch until you track down the problem with a VOM or at least a test light. Don't be a "parts changer" We have plenty of them over on PN!!

Make sure you have power to the switch, then all the way through to ether the start circuit or the ignition. (you didn't say)

BTW, don't go spraying WD40 (it's not a cure all!! nether is duct tape!!) in a switch or even contact cleaner. Contact cleaner will remove the oils or light oxidation from a light duty contact. If your ignition switch is bad, the contacts are fried/burnt!

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Old Blue
Date Posted: July-30-2008 at 2:13pm
Hey Y'all,

I am having almost the same exact problem with my 90 Sport Nautique. Sometimes I have to push the switch a bunch of times to get it to catch.

I also sometimes have to kill the engine by disengaging the switch because when I turn the key to the off position the engine keeps running.

The last time I was out on the water the switch popped out while the boat was idling and killed the engine. I pushed it about ten times and it caught again, but then it blew the switch again when I re-started the boat.

I think there is a short somewhere so I'm going to get a test light today to try and figure out where it might be. I was advised that the exciter wire might be the problem since the key only sometimes turns off the boat.

Any other ideas where I might be able to start looking?

Thanks!!



Print Page | Close Window